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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 2000 mustang gt with 373's cold air intake accufab 70mm throttle body accufab plenum throttle body spacer pi intake manifold bbk undersrive pulleys stock exhaust manifold h pipe and flowmasters and its an automatic i just took it to the strip tonight in steele alabama and the best i could do was a 14.8 in the quarter is there a way to scan my computer to see if im running lean or rich just to see what the car is doing instead of just programming it i was hoping i was going to get into the high 13's but it was the first time i ran it on the strip
 

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they have hand held diagnostic scanners. most mechanics carry them. a 14.8 with all those mods is not that very great. you should at least be in the 13's. try gettting a tuner. and i think tuners have the air/fuel calibrater on them too
 

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DB Gauges: Air Fuel Ratio Guage

If you want to truely know your A/F ratio, the best way is to get a standalone wideband gauge like the Innovate LC-1 with its own O2 sensor. I have had this kit on my car for about 40,000 miles / 2 yrs and love it. It reads perfectly. This can also help you fiquire out issues if your car starts running funny.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
do you think with getting alll that air would i need like 19lb injectors and do you have a programmer on your car what kind of time do you think it shaved off in the quarter do you think it would get me in the 13's and after i hook up and not spin off the line i think that has alot to do with it
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cause i have cold air intake 70mm accufab throttle body and plenum throttle body spacer pi intake manifold and bbk underdrive pulleys do you think im getting to much air not enough fuel? am looking into getting that air fuel guage a sct preloaed tuner and some slicks hoping to get a 13 sec drag time cause i ran it last night and spun about 5 ft.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
DB Gauges: Air Fuel Ratio Guage

If you want to truely know your A/F ratio, the best way is to get a standalone wideband gauge like the Innovate LC-1 with its own O2 sensor. I have had this kit on my car for about 40,000 miles / 2 yrs and love it. It reads perfectly. This can also help you fiquire out issues if your car starts running funny.
so when you bought that you got the gauge and that came witht he cd to put on the laptop and everything i need to excpt for the a pillar mount for the gauge so just one o2 sensor comes with it and what is the big plug for? and what numbers look good for the car?
 

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The LC-1 is standalone, so you can do a ton of things with it, even tune with the right combination. I only use it for the information. On a Supercharged car with stock internals I wouldn't go over 11.4 A/F ratio at WOT. My car runs 14.7 when it is part throttle or idle. (it will go up and down about 0.2 A/F while it is idling while the computer constantly controls and monitors A/F)

On an N/A car, I don't know what the A/F should be, I installed my wideband when I put the blower on. I would assume it would be 14.7 A/F normal driving and then no leaner than say 11-12 A/F at WOT, but I honestly don't know.

A tuner and throttle body are not going to make enough of a change in air flow to require bigger injectors and a canned tuner tune should work fine. Of course it is always best to use a custom tune to your car's modifications to get the very most out of your car. This costs a lot of money, so most people wait until they add boost or some serious engine work before paying for a custom tune.

LC-1 comes with pretty much everything you need except a gauge pod or holder to put the 52mm gauge inside. :bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The LC-1 is standalone, so you can do a ton of things with it, even tune with the right combination. I only use it for the information. On a Supercharged car with stock internals I wouldn't go over 11.4 A/F ratio at WOT. My car runs 14.7 when it is part throttle or idle. (it will go up and down about 0.2 A/F while it is idling while the computer constantly controls and monitors A/F)


On an N/A car, I don't know what the A/F should be, I installed my wideband when I put the blower on. I would assume it would be 14.7 A/F normal driving and then no leaner than say 11-12 A/F at WOT, but I honestly don't know.

A tuner and throttle body are not going to make enough of a change in air flow to require bigger injectors and a canned tuner tune should work fine. Of course it is always best to use a custom tune to your car's modifications to get the very most out of your car. This costs a lot of money, so most people wait until they add boost or some serious engine work before paying for a custom tune.

LC-1 comes with pretty much everything you need except a gauge pod or holder to put the 52mm gauge inside. :bigthumbsup
i just talked to another guy who had a gt 5 speed he had headers x pipe 70mm thorttle body and 46 lb. injectors and he said he was in the 12's n/a so i dont know what to believe so with radials or slicks soes it spin at all and hook up pretty good cause i was spinning as is with street radials
 

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What gears did he have? Slicks are going to hook a whole lot more than radials. High 12's with slicks and different gears seems possible to me with a few bolt ons. It would have to be driven without mercy though. :D

Other variables to consider are altitude and ambient temperature when the run was made.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What gears did he have? Slicks are going to hook a whole lot more than radials. High 12's with slicks and different gears seems possible to me with a few bolt ons. It would have to be driven without mercy though. :D

Other variables to consider are altitude and ambient temperature when the run was made.
he had 373's also i was running in alabama and i live in georgia do you think it was just warm i let it cool off for an hour before i ran it then i hot lapped it cause i was pissed off and he had 46lb. injectors with 70mm throttle body headers x pipe and 12 inch drag radials
 

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The heat can affect a run.
If you are running an automatic mostly stock GT, you may have trouble breaking into the 12's IMO. At least in the past a stock transmission with stock convertor had a disadvantage in the 1/4 mile compared to a similarly modded 5 speed car. :headscratch:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The heat can affect a run.
If you are running an automatic mostly stock GT, you may have trouble breaking into the 12's IMO. At least in the past a stock transmission with stock convertor had a disadvantage in the 1/4 mile compared to a similarly modded 5 speed car. :headscratch:
do you think its possible for me to get a sct sf3 programmer and get it to hook up i would be able to get into the 13's cause i thought a bone stock gt can run a 14.2 but i realize i have alot of miles on my car but i had to pull my motor and do a guides and tentioners job cause they were shot do you think a stall converter would help me at all? but i still need to read as is what my car is doing air / feul wise do you think if i took it to modular power house the could look at it and tell me what i need when they put it on the computer
 

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I don't have a lot of auto experience, but would imagine that you would want to set your car up with a better stall convertor and either get a shift kit or programmer to tweak the transmission. I keep hearing about a "J mod" but have no idea what it does.

For a mostly stock automatic car, you will have to do a few extra mods to be able to hang with a similarly modded stick car.

I would get a standalone wideband if you are worried about your A/F ratio. Make sure that your car is in perfect tune and ready for the track before modding anything else.

If you have a good tune, the A/F gauge is not really necessary until you put a power adder on the car.

I would post the stall / convertor question in the Tech section and get the Automatic guys to chime in that have experience with the setup you are interested in.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't have a lot of auto experience, but would imagine that you would want to set your car up with a better stall convertor and either get a shift kit or programmer to tweak the transmission. I keep hearing about a "J mod" but have no idea what it does.

For a mostly stock automatic car, you will have to do a few extra mods to be able to hang with a similarly modded stick car.

I would get a standalone wideband if you are worried about your A/F ratio. Make sure that your car is in perfect tune and ready for the track before modding anything else.

If you have a good tune, the A/F gauge is not really necessary until you put a power adder on the car.

I would post the stall / convertor question in the Tech section and get the Automatic guys to chime in that have experience with the setup you are interested in.
well i have been tryin to find someone with an automatic car thats in the 13's to see what all they have done to there car and my car does have a shift kit already
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well i have been tryin to find someone with an automatic car thats in the 13's to see what all they have done to there car and my car does have a shift kit already
im just going to get a custom tune because im getting more air than i am fuel im just going to go from there www.modularpowerhouse.com is going to do it for me just i dont know when im going to take it over there
 
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