Ok I like this...sort of like a game lol But a good idea! Hopefully this will help you and alot of others out.
So assuming you really want to beef this thing up you are going to want to run some decent boost pressures.
With the bare block I would take it some where and have them check the cylinder. If you are that far you will want to at least get a fresh hone but probably bore it to make sure its true. Note that when you bore a cylinder just go enough to get the thing true. If you can get that with .010 or .020 over then stick with that. Don't automatically go to .030 over. If you can save wall thickness I think that will be wise.
You will also want the block checked for any cracks or defects that may make it unsuitable for use.
Once the block is machined its time for internals! FORGED!!!! The reason that people use forged internals is because of the material properties induced during the forging process. I can give you more info on the process and everything if you like but I will try to keep the real specific info out of this reply. Anyways, forged internals will with stand the higher heat incountered in forced induction and will REDUCE the likely hood of burning a piston or something. For my SVO I used JE SRP pistons. They have a 9:1 CR, higher than stock but you really need to look at your cam as well when selecting pistons as your cam determines your dynamic compression ratio some as well. The are other brands out there as well: CP and Weisco are some good ones. CP is pretty expensive but I've heard real good thigns about them.
Next is rods. A pain in my A$$!!!! Billet 4340 H-Beam rods seem to be the most desireable. Crower, Manley, and Carillo all make good rods. Just make sure they will handle what you want to throw at them. Keep this in mind though, POWER DOES NOT BREAK RODS! Its not the compressive stress that kills rods its the tensile stress. So basically you pull them apart. You will need an idea of what kind of RPM you will want to run as well as the combined weight of your piston/pin/ring combo. With this info the manufacturer should be able to tell you if the rod will hold up.
I don't know if a stock N/A crank will work or not, this is a question for Tom or Navy. Do note that if you switch crankshafts a lot of the rods for these engines use a 2.000" rod journal, which is a standard chevy journal, so you may want to try to find one with this. Also, depending on rods if you use a stock crank you may need to have it machined.
New bearings and seals all the way around on the block. You will also want to balance your crank! This will allow you to run higher RPMs safely and will reduce everyday stress on the engine. Also check your intermediate shaft, may want to replace this depending on its condition. new bearings may be needed as well.
Oh! Might as well deck the block too, get a mating surface for the head. It think thats about it for the block.
Can post about the rest of the build later if you would like, but thats a good start anyways.
