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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, got the 30lb injectors(ditched the gay FMU) and matching 75mm maf installed tonight.(both used) Let's just say it runs like ass, when it even runs. It's soooooooooo rich. Ordered a holley boost referenced adjustable fuel pressure regulator today($30 used) to hopefully solve that problem. It won't be driveable until it comes in the mail.(hopefully that somewhat solve the problem) What gets me is the "calibrated" maf should be compensating for the change in injectors and sending a modified voltage signal to the eec, but it acts like it's not. Then again, all a calibrated maf does is change the amount of air flowing over the sensors which cools the sensors more or less depending on the sample tube size and sends a sinal to the EEC of how much voltage is required to keep the sensors at a constant temperature. if it is the maf sensor that is fugged up i think i can just swap in my stock maf sensor into the 75mm housing and should work. so i swapped in the stock maf sensor into the 75mm housing and same thing. only two things left it could be is the tune, or the injectors are leaking fuel at all times. so then i checked that injectors are not leaking. i pulled the upper intake and the fuel rail with injectors still attached and turned the ignition to on and there are no drips, dribbles, or sprays. (couldnt do it the easy way cuz my fuel pressure gauge kit is at work)that leaves me with tune or adjusting the fuel pressure....i would have been happier if the maf was bad. lol. but how succesful have you guys been with a larger injector/maf install? did it run like complete ass? mine wont even hardley run unless i hold my foot to the floor and it still barely gets above 450rpms. i just need this thing running to make it to the tuner next week!! if i cant make it to the tuner ill just get a tweecer.......
 

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I put 50# inj in mine started no problem. Runs rich and idle sways but it does run and revs up. What MAF are you using? Do you have an adj reg now? I have the t rex and a bbk 255 in mine didnt adj it at all yet, still set at the 225 hp and stock pump level. I assume you are using cooler autolite plugs with .032 gap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put 50# inj in mine started no problem. Runs rich and idle sways but it does run and revs up. What MAF are you using? Do you have an adj reg now? I have the t rex and a bbk 255 in mine didnt adj it at all yet, still set at the 225 hp and stock pump level. I assume you are using cooler autolite plugs with .032 gap?
im running a 75mm pro flow maf that came with the injectors. the maf is inscribed "for 30lb injectors". i wont have the regulator unill sometime late this coming week. and i dont think that will solve my problem, cuz the regulator doesnt really take effect untill the car is running. mine wont even start now. the plugs are NGK gapped at about .034. i think i might just throw the stock injectors back in to get me to the dyno. then swap em' out in the parking lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i think ive decided to just buy a tweecer setup. i like the idea of having COMPLETE control over tuning.
 

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Ran a MAF calibrated for 42's with 42's for a short while before my plugs fouled from it running so rich. I, too, went with TwEECer to have complete control on my tune. Loaded in the calibration curve for the MAF and hi/lo slopes, breakpoint, voltage offset, etc for the injectors and eventually fixed the rich problem.

Some people run matching calibration of MAF/injectors with no problems, others have experiences like you.

Be careful with those 30-lb injectors. That's a tad on the small side for 12 psi boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ran a MAF calibrated for 42's with 42's for a short while before my plugs fouled from it running so rich. I, too, went with TwEECer to have complete control on my tune. Loaded in the calibration curve for the MAF and hi/lo slopes, breakpoint, voltage offset, etc for the injectors and eventually fixed the rich problem.

Some people run matching calibration of MAF/injectors with no problems, others have experiences like you.

Be careful with those 30-lb injectors. That's a tad on the small side for 12 psi boost.

yea they are on the small side, but they are hopefully temporary. im trying to get my tuning situation worked out before i dig into more of the fuel system. but in the meantime i have a boost reference fpr to aid in the small injectors. i sure was hoping to be able to rip it up at the track in a few weeks. looks like thats not gonna happen...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Use a Moates.:bigthumbsup
im still undecided between moates and tweecer. im going to be doing alot more research before i decide. do you use moates spdjnky? if so, any pros and cons you have come across?
 

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Im still deciding if I want to tune myself. Seems to be expensive for all the items you need. But a few times at the shop and its paid for. Been doing a lot of studying on the issue. From what I remember the only difference between the systems is how much control you have as far as how many sensors and things you can adjust. Moates seems to have more options.
 

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I don't have Moates quarterhorse, but from what I've heard it

1) allows tuning changes with the car still running, whereas twEECer requires you to turn off the car to make a change. Besides impressing your friends and being the life of the party, being able to tune on the fly does has alot of benefits.
2) has better customer service

Quarterhorse wasn't yet available when I bought twEECer, but if I had to chose now, it'd be the qtrhorse. I think it's cheaper, too.

In making the decision to tune yourself or pay for a tune, most people say that if you plan to keep making upgrades to your car later, learning to tune yourself pays in the end. AS for me, I've built my car almost from the ground up, and I have found that tuning to be the most enjoyable of all of it, but I get into that kind of stuff....

When learning to tune yourself just don't expect to get everything overnight. It can take a while (especially if you have alot of mods).
 

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I don't have Moates quarterhorse, but from what I've heard it

1) allows tuning changes with the car still running, whereas twEECer requires you to turn off the car to make a change. Besides impressing your friends and being the life of the party, being able to tune on the fly does has alot of benefits.
2) has better customer service

Quarterhorse wasn't yet available when I bought twEECer, but if I had to chose now, it'd be the qtrhorse. I think it's cheaper, too.

In making the decision to tune yourself or pay for a tune, most people say that if you plan to keep making upgrades to your car later, learning to tune yourself pays in the end. AS for me, I've built my car almost from the ground up, and I have found that tuning to be the most enjoyable of all of it, but I get into that kind of stuff....

When learning to tune yourself just don't expect to get everything overnight. It can take a while (especially if you have alot of mods).

All in all how much did it cost complete?
 

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$550 - TwEECer RT
$80 - Binary Editor Tuning Software
$180 - LC1 Innovative Wideband
$15 - Serial-to-USB converter (to connect the LC1 to laptop)
$30 - GM 3-bar MAP sensor {not required}
$60 - EEC Analyzer {not required}

I believe you can replace the TwEECer cost with $249 for Moates Qtrhorse.
 
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