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289, t5, 14 inch cregars, SSBC front disk brakes, 600 CFM edlebrock carb...

I have a question for all you enthusiasts out there that know what the hell they are doing, unlike myself. So, I was reading an article on lowering the control arm one inch for better corning and less body roll. Here is the related article:

How To Relocate Upper Control Arms - Mustang Monthly

My question is can I do this with the original-like, Scott Drake model?

Here is the list of suspension components I have and want to put on the car:
-5-leaf leaf springs (new shackles and hardware)
-KYB gas-a-shock rear shocks
-Scott Drake UCA C4DZ-3082-RI Mustang Scott Drake Upper Control Arm Assembly Premium Black/Gray 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
-Scott Drake LCA C4DZ-3078-A. Mustang Scott Drake Lower Control Arm Assembly Premium Black/Gray 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
-Scott Drake coil springs (including hardware) C5ZZ-5310-PR Mustang Scott Drake Coil Spring Progressive Rate Pair 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
-Scott Drake performance shocks (front) and the hardware

Before any one hates on anything let me just state this: I know you get what you pay for, but I'm in college and looking for cheaper solutions to get this ride in tip top shape and that includes safety when the roads are wet. This is going to be built for DAILY driving and yes, I do realize it will probably drive like a truck, but thats okay. As long as when I corner in the rain or even dry conditions the body doesn't roll to where it wants to jump out from me. I want the most traction I can get. Oh, and something to help when I brake hard the back wheels don't lock up (especially when wet)

WHAT SAY YOU?
 

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You gotta read this...

DazeCars, Shelby Drop, Klaus Arning drop, upper control arm drop, Falcon, Mustang, Cougar 60-70

Parts of it may make your head spin (it did mine), but you are wanting to do what I did and with the same parts. Sorry I cannot comment on the improvements, I did not drive my Mustang prior to restoration, but I went with popular opinion and did the 1" UCA Drop anyhow.

I did not, however, put in 5 leaf springs. I went with stock replacements and it rides stiff enough for me. New stock springs will make a world of difference.
 

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If you want to save money (who doesn't) consider upgrading your sway bars first. You'll get a bigger bang for your buck there.
 

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The 1" Arning drop is the single best improvement to make the Mustang handle better.
Very inexpensive with very good results. I did the 1" drop and installed 620 rate grabatrak coil springs. Bought the template from Daze Cars and it really wasn't that difficult. The removal of the factory coil springs are a little dangerous. The new 620's can be installed without a spring compressor. I am really pleased with the difference in how the car handles and rides now. It is almost effortless to drive compared to before.
New control arms with ball joints and UCA bushings. New steering suspension and wheel bearings are worth the money and also share in perfecting the ride quality. If you buy the parts you have listed you will be pleased with the results. An important part after completed is a GOOD front end alignment from an "old school" mechanic or someone capable of aligning to the newer specs for radial tires. The 1" drop will allow more caster to be adjusted. Go for it!there are many other Mustang parts providers out there. Be sure to talk to someone at the counter to truly verify the parts are actually in stock before ordering on line. Especially CJ Pony when it comes to front end parts they are at the mercy of the ship coming from China like others.
 

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should I look into any specific kinds of sway bars?

thanks for the link!! I'll check it out.
Sorry, but no. Most of these cars never came with a rear bar, and when, say, the right rear goes up the left front dives down. A take-off bar from a high performance model of the same chassis should be your least expensive option.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
okay.. i will look into it.. thanks for the opinions guys..

you guys have any info about headers? I'm lookin into those too
 

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Consider the 1.75" UCA drop. Actually provides a better camber curve, but necessitates the "negative wedge" under the upper ball joint.

I've driven cars with all the various mods. I'm personally doing the GT springs cut for lowering (rough roads around here, the 620's would kill me, remember they are like twice as stiff as stock), a 1" sway bar, 1.75" UCA drop, all new joints etc., KYB's, and getting the best tire I can fit. Should provide a non-jarring, flat, better handling ride.
Good luck!
 
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