Upper control arm/front suspension question..

2006 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Dangerous Dan, Aug 1, 2012

pinkblob66

Discussion Starter · Jul 30, 2012

289, t5, 14 inch cregars, SSBC front disk brakes, 600 CFM edlebrock carb...

I have a question for all you enthusiasts out there that know what the hell they are doing, unlike myself. So, I was reading an article on lowering the control arm one inch for better corning and less body roll. Here is the related article:

How To Relocate Upper Control Arms - Mustang Monthly

My question is can I do this with the original-like, Scott Drake model?

Here is the list of suspension components I have and want to put on the car:
-5-leaf leaf springs (new shackles and hardware)
-KYB gas-a-shock rear shocks
-Scott Drake UCA C4DZ-3082-RI Mustang Scott Drake Upper Control Arm Assembly Premium Black/Gray 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
-Scott Drake LCA C4DZ-3078-A. Mustang Scott Drake Lower Control Arm Assembly Premium Black/Gray 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
-Scott Drake coil springs (including hardware) C5ZZ-5310-PR Mustang Scott Drake Coil Spring Progressive Rate Pair 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
-Scott Drake performance shocks (front) and the hardware

Before any one hates on anything let me just state this: I know you get what you pay for, but I'm in college and looking for cheaper solutions to get this ride in tip top shape and that includes safety when the roads are wet. This is going to be built for DAILY driving and yes, I do realize it will probably drive like a truck, but thats okay. As long as when I corner in the rain or even dry conditions the body doesn't roll to where it wants to jump out from me. I want the most traction I can get. Oh, and something to help when I brake hard the back wheels don't lock up (especially when wet)

WHAT SAY YOU?

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Dangerous Dan

· #8 · Aug 1, 2012

Consider the 1.75" UCA drop. Actually provides a better camber curve, but necessitates the "negative wedge" under the upper ball joint.

I've driven cars with all the various mods. I'm personally doing the GT springs cut for lowering (rough roads around here, the 620's would kill me, remember they are like twice as stiff as stock), a 1" sway bar, 1.75" UCA drop, all new joints etc., KYB's, and getting the best tire I can fit. Should provide a non-jarring, flat, better handling ride.
Good luck!

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