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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys... I have an '02 V6..... I'm planning to drive it troughout the winter..... need advice... -winter tires??, sand bags in the trunk???.....
just remember I live in Edmonton..... AB.
 

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Well you didn't specify what you needed help with so here's a list of what I have done for minnesota weather.

1. get oil change with synthetic oil. They stay fluid down to buku below zero.
2. flush radiator if you haven't done so in two years.
3. Get engine block heater. Some attach to the radiator hose others attach to the oil pan.
Either one will do.
4. If they salt the roads up there, put a good coat of wax on the car.
5. If you have air suspension ride on the car, try to put some antifreeze in it. I know they make specific anti freeze for air brake systems, and I'm guessing the air suspensions could suffer the same fate. I honestly don't know if air suspension antifreeze is made cause I got regular shocks on my car, I'm guessing on this one.

6. Winter tires DO MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Not on ice though, you still slide but just not as far.
But even with winter tires, sand bags (100lbs.) and a full tank of gas, a mustang will have trouble starting from a dead stop. Well at least my 95 does. In up to 6 in of snow I can personally attest to awesomeness of winter tires. As long as you don't drive like a moron the tires will get you where you want to go. 7.If local laws allow studded tires, defiantly score you a set. www.Tirerack.com, www.Sears.com, www.Overstock.com, www.Mysimon.com
8. Don't make the mistake of buying only tires for the back. If you do, you turn your mustang into a snowmobile/and available traction is cut in half, so don't go cheap.

9. If you have the option you should score a remote starter. It gives you a nice warm car to walk to and you don't have t worry about scraping your windshield anymore. Just leave the heater set on defrost when you go in for the night. In the morning, remote star and you get a warm car with clear windows. Granted you do have to let the car warm up first but with an engine block heater it's MUCH quicker.

10.Disreguard last statement if you have a garage. DO NOT disregard if it's a detached garage.

Well this is all I can think of. If anybody else wants too chime in feel free. I work at a ford dealership and will check on the whole traction control thing at post tommorrow.
 

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oh my god thank you so much. you're awesome. oh and i was just wondering what do you do at the ford dealership cause i think i would really like a job at one. thanks
 

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FreeLoop said:
oh my god thank you so much. you're awesome. oh and i was just wondering what do you do at the ford dealership cause i think i would really like a job at one. thanks
Well just remember the old saying FreeLoop, Watch what you ask for, you might just get it.
I've only been there about two weeks, working the quike lube. Or as I like to call it. Shade tree mechanics on a biblical scale. So far I've done about 65 cars my self. I think two of those were mustangs and they were both GT's. The rest were an endless sea of F-150's,Explorers and Expeditions. the occasional chevy or dodge would come in but most were truck and suv's. Speaking of, since working there I have a new appreciation for tire pressure. Out of all those vehicles I have serviced. ONE, FREAKIN ONE had the right tire pressure. So remember kiddies to check yo stuff when you fill-up next.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you very much, all that info is really useful... I do have traction control... this is my first winter with my car and I do not know whether traction control makes a difference (I guess so,)

I am going to put some money in the winter tires for sure... and with the sand bags I am just worry about the shocks... any comment?

thanks,
 

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Thanks Imikus. ye im studying mechanical engineering and i wanna become a car mechanic so i was just wondering how much do you get paid, if you dont want to say it, its alright.
 

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ranger said:
Thank you very much, all that info is really useful... I do have traction control... this is my first winter with my car and I do not know whether traction control makes a difference (I guess so,)

I am going to put some money in the winter tires for sure... and with the sand bags I am just worry about the shocks... any comment?

thanks,
I wouldn't worry about the shocks. Two people in the back seat weigh a lot more than two sand bags in the trunk. With traction control and a good set of snow tires you should be all set.

FreeLoop as far as pay goes, I get paid differently from the regular mechanics. The regular mechanics (which you are training to be) get paid by the particular job they do. This could be anything from brakes,engines e.t.c That's why authorized service for a dealership is so high. They don't get paid by the hour, only the time the repair manual calls for. And the pay will vary by dealership. Iv'e seen it at 70 in one city and 90 per hour at another. There are days where you spend all day doing an engine rebuild and get a fat check, and others your praying for at least a tire rotation to get the rent paid. About the only incentive working there is getting the medical and dental that comes along with full time status. Now if you get employed by a small shop like ********** car repair they might not have benefits like that. If you open up your own shop then your gonna have to pay for everything yourself.

I don't want to paint a bad picture about being a mechanic, it pretty cool job, but I think you should go into it with your eyes open.

I think I am gonna start a new thread called "Tales from the quicke lube slave."
I have defiantly had my eyes opened on what goes on day-to-day in a shop and how things are done. I figured some other people might want to know too.
Anyway, good luck with the school FreeLoop
 

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oh ya

another thing you might want to look at is an oil pan warming pad. Gregg Distributors sells them for about 35 plus the silicone to stick em' on. All they are are a thin heating pad you stick to the bottom of your oil pan and run the cord up to where you plug in your block heater (watch the exhaust manifold - you don't want to melt the cord). Plug in at night and your oil will never get thick giving you easier starts and a longer engine life. Nothing like taking years off of your bearings with sludgy, frozen oil. You can do it yourself, no sweat.

Winter tires make beacoup difference especially if you pick up Blizzacks or something like them. They have super soft rubber that sticks like mad to the ice but as you might guess, don't last as long as you would want them to (soft rubber wears off quick). I've friends who swear by them, but if you like sliding a bit in winter like I do, just stick with the all-seasons.
 

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Thanks for all your comments. I definitively go to buy those winter tires this weekend.

Which ones do you recommend?....

Should I buy the same size ? 225/50??? (I know the rim diameter should be the same... so i am just concern about height/wide)....
 

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Use the same size as the ones on the car.Get some steel rims too.They're only $65 each and pay for themselves in a couple of seasons for what a change over would cost. I got your pm check the one I sent you. That would be funny if your car turned out to be my old ride. I've got the touch up paint here if you want it.:thumbsup
 

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ranger said:
Hey guys... I have an '02 V6..... I'm planning to drive it troughout the winter..... need advice... -winter tires??, sand bags in the trunk???.....
just remember I live in Edmonton..... AB.
there are a lot of tips in the archives. just match on winter & driving.

I don't have TC, never had it, even on my '68. I've never gotten stuck.

Biggest factor is the tires, snow tires work best.
 

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I drove my 95 V6 and my 03 V6 convert in many a Saskatchewan winter and never had an issue. I tried sandbags and didn't notice a difference with them in or out. I didn't try winter tires but am going to have to now that I have V8. I found my stangs to be quite capable in snow and ice, just have to pay a little more attention to the road.:eyepoppin
 

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i've never done the sand bag thing either..
way i see it is if you do "let go" it's just another 100 pounds to try and get control of..

got stick??
in the harsher weather take off in second :)
less torque, less opportunity to break loose
drove my 05 all winter with all-seasons
 

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I have never owned a RWD car but it would be the same as a FWD car when it comes to winter. Snow tires are ok but you need snow and ice tires. I have been running Michelin X Ice 2's on my vehicles for the past 5 years and I swear by them. The other thing is that you have to go a size down usually. If you have 18's on there now you probably will have to go down to 17's for the winter. The smaller the tire the more tirewall it is going to give you for traction in deep snow. Also they have to be able to fit between your brake calipers. You also have to adjust your speed. Talk to a KalTire rep or any other tire company and they can explain it better for you. Steel rims are much cheaper than alloys but are hard to find for 17" plus tires. Find a cheap pair of alloys that have the correct bolt pattern (and there is one other thing with the wheels, can't think of it right now but a tire shop would know) for your car. Steelies are cheap but look liks s--t. Even if you put cheap Canadian Tire hubcaps on them (which pop off fairly easily, always seem to be replacing them) Thanks guys for explaining the sandbags if it makes a difference or not. My dad used to put them in the back of the pickup for winter when I was a kid but wasn't sure if it would make much of a difference in one of these peformance cars. I am looking at buying the 2011 V6 w/ pony package my son (he has saved most of the money for it though) Cheers!:bigthumbsup
 
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