Did you send Viper an email? https://www.viper.com/support/
I also have a Viper system so I'm very interested in your outcome...
I also have a Viper system so I'm very interested in your outcome...
Viper alarm door lock/unlock blowing fuses
Viper alarm door lock/unlock issues
I have a 1990 Mustang LX. My door locks work perfectly. Using 5-wire 30/40 amp relays tapped into the pink/green and pink/yellow wires in the door lock circuit, the door locks don't work when operating from the key fob. I've tapped into constant power on the cigarette lighter circuit (20 amps) and it blows that fuse when either lock or unlock buttons are pressed on the fob. I tapped into the headlight switch constant power and it blows that 15 amp fuse as well. Door locks still work properly when using the switch on the arm rest of the door panel.
I originally had the relays getting power from the same circuit as the alarm "brain", but heard that would blow fuses, so I separated them. The circuit the "brain" is tapped into doesn't blow the fuse, but the circuit the relays are connected to ALWAYS blow when using the key fob.
The relays have been tested and are working properly, closing 30 and 87 when the 85 and 86 circuit is complete. My relays do not have a diode, so polarity shouldn't be an issue (though I've changed polarity on both 30/87 and 85/86 and get the same results).
I have the horn hooked up and working. I have the door trigger hooked up to the driver side door pin and it's working. I have the marker lights hooked up and flashing as the fob key's are pressed. The alarm is working as is, I just can't use the keyless entry. I have not hooked up the ignition wire, starter interupt, or the hatch release. Wanted to get each option working properly before adding new ones. Not sure if any of these other items need to be connected (specifically the ignition) for the door locks to work, but I wouldn't think not having something connected would blow fuses.
Anyone know what I'm missing?
**EDIT**
Here's the solution:
The reason the alarm was blowing fuses is because the door lock actuator needs a 30amp circuit. Tapping into a constant hot behind the left, dashboard speaker (black/white wire) kept me from blowing fuses. This black/white wire is the same wire the door lock actuators get their power from. The wires for the door lock switches/actuators run from each door, across the dash behind each dash speaker.
After fixing this issue, I ran into a problem where I could hear the door lock actuators working, but the locks weren't going up and down when I hit the buttons on the key fob. The sound it was making was like I was trying to unlock an already unlocked door. The solution to this was cutting the door lock wires and not just tee'ing into them.
Here's my last post copied and pasted to explain how to complete this part of the install:
Cutting the pink/yellow and pink/green wires appears to work. I cut the pink/yellow, tested the ends of the cut wires with a test light and the one that lit the light when the lock switch in the door was thrown was connected to pin 87a of a relay and the other cut end to pin 30. Constant hot was connected to pin 87. When I locked the doors and hit the unlock button on the fob, the locks unlocked as expected.
I'll do the same with the pink/green wire tomorrow, as well as the wire from the hatch release switch in the glove box and my install should be done.
**UPDATE**
Connected the second relay the exact same way and everything is working properly. So, the pink/green and pink/yellow wires need to be cut (NOT tapped into) and connected to pins 30 and 87a (87a going to the switch and pin 30 going to the actuator). When the relay is triggered the actuator on pin 30 goes from closed with the switch through 87a to closed with the alarm through pin 87.
I have a 1990 Mustang LX. My door locks work perfectly. Using 5-wire 30/40 amp relays tapped into the pink/green and pink/yellow wires in the door lock circuit, the door locks don't work when operating from the key fob. I've tapped into constant power on the cigarette lighter circuit (20 amps) and it blows that fuse when either lock or unlock buttons are pressed on the fob. I tapped into the headlight switch constant power and it blows that 15 amp fuse as well. Door locks still work properly when using the switch on the arm rest of the door panel.
I originally had the relays getting power from the same circuit as the alarm "brain", but heard that would blow fuses, so I separated them. The circuit the "brain" is tapped into doesn't blow the fuse, but the circuit the relays are connected to ALWAYS blow when using the key fob.
The relays have been tested and are working properly, closing 30 and 87 when the 85 and 86 circuit is complete. My relays do not have a diode, so polarity shouldn't be an issue (though I've changed polarity on both 30/87 and 85/86 and get the same results).
I have the horn hooked up and working. I have the door trigger hooked up to the driver side door pin and it's working. I have the marker lights hooked up and flashing as the fob key's are pressed. The alarm is working as is, I just can't use the keyless entry. I have not hooked up the ignition wire, starter interupt, or the hatch release. Wanted to get each option working properly before adding new ones. Not sure if any of these other items need to be connected (specifically the ignition) for the door locks to work, but I wouldn't think not having something connected would blow fuses.
Anyone know what I'm missing?
**EDIT**
Here's the solution:
The reason the alarm was blowing fuses is because the door lock actuator needs a 30amp circuit. Tapping into a constant hot behind the left, dashboard speaker (black/white wire) kept me from blowing fuses. This black/white wire is the same wire the door lock actuators get their power from. The wires for the door lock switches/actuators run from each door, across the dash behind each dash speaker.
After fixing this issue, I ran into a problem where I could hear the door lock actuators working, but the locks weren't going up and down when I hit the buttons on the key fob. The sound it was making was like I was trying to unlock an already unlocked door. The solution to this was cutting the door lock wires and not just tee'ing into them.
Here's my last post copied and pasted to explain how to complete this part of the install:
Cutting the pink/yellow and pink/green wires appears to work. I cut the pink/yellow, tested the ends of the cut wires with a test light and the one that lit the light when the lock switch in the door was thrown was connected to pin 87a of a relay and the other cut end to pin 30. Constant hot was connected to pin 87. When I locked the doors and hit the unlock button on the fob, the locks unlocked as expected.
I'll do the same with the pink/green wire tomorrow, as well as the wire from the hatch release switch in the glove box and my install should be done.
**UPDATE**
Connected the second relay the exact same way and everything is working properly. So, the pink/green and pink/yellow wires need to be cut (NOT tapped into) and connected to pins 30 and 87a (87a going to the switch and pin 30 going to the actuator). When the relay is triggered the actuator on pin 30 goes from closed with the switch through 87a to closed with the alarm through pin 87.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
email
From my understanding, Viper only offers support to certified installers. No, I haven't contacted them. I will now to see what they say. I'll post back.
But, in the mean time, if anyone knows what might be causing my blown fuse issue, I'd love to hear from you as it may take a few days to hear back from Viper! Thanks.
Did you send Viper an email? https://www.viper.com/support/
From my understanding, Viper only offers support to certified installers. No, I haven't contacted them. I will now to see what they say. I'll post back.
But, in the mean time, if anyone knows what might be causing my blown fuse issue, I'd love to hear from you as it may take a few days to hear back from Viper! Thanks.
Viper just got back to me. Here's what they said:
"Thank you for contacting Directed. Unfortunately we only provide installation and troubleshooting support on this product if you are an authorized dealer.
This policy is in place to ensure that Directed Electronics is not held liable for damage caused by improper installation of this particular product. We apologize for the inconvenience.
Regards,"
"Thank you for contacting Directed. Unfortunately we only provide installation and troubleshooting support on this product if you are an authorized dealer.
This policy is in place to ensure that Directed Electronics is not held liable for damage caused by improper installation of this particular product. We apologize for the inconvenience.
Regards,"
I'm just curious how these relays are sending too many amps through these circuits to blow fuses. I mean, I'm taking the same 12v that the door lock actuators are already using, to close a relay and send the same 12v source to the door lock actuators. Unless the relays are causing a short, I don't see how they should blow a fuse. And, why would the relays cause a short? They're tested and working correctly (meaning, when I complete a circuit between pins 85 and 86, I get continuity between pin 30 and 87, which wasn't present prior). This 30/87 circuit sends a positive 12v to the door lock actuators, just like the switch in the door does, right??? The rely is connected to the wire that gets power when the door lock switch is activated.
Anyone see what I'm missing???
Anyone see what I'm missing???
I'm no electrician, and I'm speaking out of school, but aren't the pink/green and pink/yellow wires just used to transfer power from common 30A(?) power source, the black/white wire, to both the driver and passenger lock switches? Pressing the lock switch sends current to the door actuators, and the polarity determines whether the doors lock or unlock. Pressing the switch one way, or the other, reverses the circuit's polarity. These wires don't directly control the door actuators, so it seems to me that sticking a relay in middle of either one of these circuits would be the wrong approach. Additionally, I believe these circuits are always hot, so when the relay closes, you're possibly putting 30 amps through your cigarette lighter circuit. I suspect this is why you're blowing fuses.I'm just curious how these relays are sending too many amps through these circuits to blow fuses. I mean, I'm taking the same 12v that the door lock actuators are already using, to close a relay and send the same 12v source to the door lock actuators. Unless the relays are causing a short, I don't see how they should blow a fuse. And, why would the relays cause a short? They're tested and working correctly (meaning, when I complete a circuit between pins 85 and 86, I get continuity between pin 30 and 87, which wasn't present prior). This 30/87 circuit sends a positive 12v to the door lock actuators, just like the switch in the door does, right??? The rely is connected to the wire that gets power when the door lock switch is activated.
Anyone see what I'm missing???
I think the door lock relays are powered by the pink/orange and pink/black wires. It seems to me that applying the correct polarity voltage directly to these wires, in effect bypassing the switches, would cause the relays to operate. I would try my relays there, instead of where they are currently.
I'm in the process of checking this entire circuit.I'm no electrician, and I'm speaking out of school, but aren't the pink/green and pink/yellow wires just used to transfer power from common 30A(?) power source, the black/white wire, to both the driver and passenger lock switches? Pressing the lock switch sends current to the door actuators, and the polarity determines whether the doors lock or unlock. Pressing the switch one way, or the other, reverses the circuit's polarity. These wires don't directly control the door actuators, so it seems to me that sticking a relay in middle of either one of these circuits would be the wrong approach. Additionally, I believe these circuits are always hot, so when the relay closes, you're possibly putting 30 amps through your cigarette lighter circuit. I suspect this is why you're blowing fuses.
I think the door lock relays are powered by the pink/orange and pink/black wires. It seems to me that applying the correct polarity voltage directly to these wires, in effect bypassing the switches, would cause the relays to operate. I would try my relays there, instead of where they are currently.
It was explained to me that the door lock switch gets power from the black/white wire and the switch send that power to one side of the actuator or the other depending on which direction the switch was thrown. So, the pink/green wire sends power to the lock side of the actuator when closed and the pink/yellow sends power to the unlock side of the actuator when closed. Therefor,e sending power to the pink/green or pink/yellow should operate the actuator. The actuator doesn't work on a change in polarity, but rather works in a direction based on where the power is sent.
It's my understanding that these wire do control the door lock actuators, sending current directly to the actuator when the switch closes either circuit.
This information could be wrong though. Multiple people have reported wiring their alarm to these wires with positive results. So, I tested these wires and they received power when the door lock switch closed in one direction each. So, it made sense to me that supplying power to these wires would operate the actuator.
The door lock switch and the power window switch plug into the same receptacle. The wires that appear to go to the door lock actuator from that receptacle are the black/white, ping/green, pink/yellow and another black wire that I haven't yet identified. But the pink/orange and pink/black don't go to the door lock actuator, but may power the board that the door lock switch is connected to. I'll try to figure that out today.
Attachments
-
1.4 MB Views: 242 -
1.3 MB Views: 290
The first pic above shows the back of the receptacle that the door lock switch plugs into. The door lock switch is attached on left, bottom side in the pic. The four wires that come off the left side of that receptacle go directly to a plug that is just off the pic to the right (under that yellowish boot). The second pic shows the other end of that yellowish boot and the wires that come out of it. The wires are pink/green, pink/yellow and two black wires.
This may or may not go to the door lock actuator (I haven't traced them into the door yet), but I would think the wires behind the door lock switch would go to the door lock actuator, and the other wires would go to the window motors.
This may or may not go to the door lock actuator (I haven't traced them into the door yet), but I would think the wires behind the door lock switch would go to the door lock actuator, and the other wires would go to the window motors.
https://www.justanswer.com/ford/3wm9y-need-wiring-diagram-1989-mustang-convertible.htmlI'm in the process of checking this entire circuit.
It was explained to me that the door lock switch gets power from the black/white wire and the switch send that power to one side of the actuator or the other depending on which direction the switch was thrown. So, the pink/green wire sends power to the lock side of the actuator when closed and the pink/yellow sends power to the unlock side of the actuator when closed. Therefor,e sending power to the pink/green or pink/yellow should operate the actuator. The actuator doesn't work on a change in polarity, but rather works in a direction based on where the power is sent.
It's my understanding that these wire do control the door lock actuators, sending current directly to the actuator when the switch closes either circuit.
This information could be wrong though. Multiple people have reported wiring their alarm to these wires with positive results. So, I tested these wires and they received power when the door lock switch closed in one direction each. So, it made sense to me that supplying power to these wires would operate the actuator.
The door lock switch and the power window switch plug into the same receptacle. The wires that appear to go to the door lock actuator from that receptacle are the black/white, ping/green, pink/yellow and another black wire that I haven't yet identified. But the pink/orange and pink/black don't go to the door lock actuator, but may power the board that the door lock switch is connected to. I'll try to figure that out today.
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/for...mustang-power-door-locks-power-door-locks.jpg
Fox Power Door Lock Repair - Mustang Monthly Magazine
Changing the "direction" of the power is changing the circuit's polarity. The locks operate on the same principle as power windows.
Attached is a link to a wiring diagram, and a very brief article about the locks. The '89 and '90 are identical. The actuators are wired in parallel, supposedly with pink/black and pink/orange wires, and both connected to the passenger switch. Pressing one or the other switch does send power in one direction, or the other, through the passenger switch and to the actuators. The pink/green and pink/yellow wires are not directly attached to the actuators, they transit through the switch.
Personally, I would try to isolate the direct actuator wiring, if it does not match the wiring diagram, and apply 12v power directly to the wires and see what the actuators do. One thing is for sure, the fuses are blowing because something is trying to push too many amps through the circuit. If it's not a short, then there's only one other possibility.
If that's the driver's side receptacle, you'll not find the actuator wires there. The actuators are wired to the passenger switch.The first pic above shows the back of the receptacle that the door lock switch plugs into. The door lock switch is attached on left, bottom side in the pic. The four wires that come off the left side of that receptacle go directly to a plug that is just off the pic to the right (under that yellowish boot). The second pic shows the other end of that yellowish boot and the wires that come out of it. The wires are pink/green, pink/yellow and two black wires.
This may or may not go to the door lock actuator (I haven't traced them into the door yet), but I would think the wires behind the door lock switch would go to the door lock actuator, and the other wires would go to the window motors.
That was a pic of the drivers side!If that's the driver's side receptacle, you'll not find the actuator wires there. The actuators are wired to the passenger switch.
Since the drivers switch operates both door locks, wouldn't it work to tap into the wires from the drivers side??? I've actually tapped into the wires behind the left side speaker in the dash. The wires run from the door lock switch in the drivers door, behind the left dash speaker, across the dash, behind the right dash speaker and into the passenger door. The black/white wire from the drivers door lock switch runs across as well. I've tested it behind the left speaker and it is hot at all time. If I get my power from that source, wouldn't the system work just like the drivers side switch? It would be completing the same circuit, just bypassing the drivers door lock switch.
It seems like my problem has been tapping into sources with 10 and 20 amp fuses. This door lock circuit is behind a 30a fuse (as seen the diagrams you linked).
I'll see if those pink/orange and pink/black wires are in the same location and I'll try tapping into those instead.
Thanks so much for the help, btw!
What you described might work. It's worth a shot.That was a pic of the drivers side!
Since the drivers switch operates both door locks, wouldn't it work to tap into the wires from the drivers side??? I've actually tapped into the wires behind the left side speaker in the dash. The wires run from the door lock switch in the drivers door, behind the left dash speaker, across the dash, behind the right dash speaker and into the passenger door. The black/white wire from the drivers door lock switch runs across as well. I've tested it behind the left speaker and it is hot at all time. If I get my power from that source, wouldn't the system work just like the drivers side switch? It would be completing the same circuit, just bypassing the drivers door lock switch.
It seems like my problem has been tapping into sources with 10 and 20 amp fuses. This door lock circuit is behind a 30a fuse (as seen the diagrams you linked).
I'll see if those pink/orange and pink/black wires are in the same location and I'll try tapping into those instead.
Thanks so much for the help, btw!
Yes, the hot black/white wire goes from the fuse to the passenger switch. From there, it goes to the driver's side switch, supplying power to both switches. The pink/black and pink/orange ones are only connected to the passenger side switch. Anything the driver switch does has to go "through" the passenger switch.
So...I took power for the door locks from the black/white behind the left hand dash speaker. I also tapped into the pink/yellow and pink/green wires which connect to the driver side door lock switch. My constant power for the "brain" of the alarm still comes from the cigarette lighter/horn circuit.
When arming and disarming the alarm, I DIDN'T blow any fuses! But, I could hear what sounded like the door lock actuators, but the locks didn't lock/unlock. The driver side switch in the door still operates the door lock properly. The sound I heard was similar to that of when you try to unlock already unlocked doors. I switched the green and blue door lock wires from the alarm (from one relay to the other) thinking I just had them reversed, but I get the same results...the muted sound of the door locks working, but they don't.
It seems I'm getting close:laugh2:
When arming and disarming the alarm, I DIDN'T blow any fuses! But, I could hear what sounded like the door lock actuators, but the locks didn't lock/unlock. The driver side switch in the door still operates the door lock properly. The sound I heard was similar to that of when you try to unlock already unlocked doors. I switched the green and blue door lock wires from the alarm (from one relay to the other) thinking I just had them reversed, but I get the same results...the muted sound of the door locks working, but they don't.
It seems I'm getting close:laugh2:
I think we got it figured out at another forum. Basically, you don't just tap into the door lock wires. You have to cut the wires instead of tee'ing into them or piggy-backing them. To keep the switch in the door working when you cut the wires, you have to utilize pin 87a. Most diagrams either send 87a to ground, or they don't even use that pin. I believe that would be ok when installing with after-market door lock actuators where a switch wasn't in place prior.
Worth looking at the attachment below \/
Worth looking at the attachment below \/
Attachments
-
153 KB Views: 556
Cutting the pink/yellow and pink/green wires appears to work. I cut the pink/yellow, tested the ends of the cut wires with a test light and the one that lit the light when the lock switch in the door was thrown was connected to pin 87a of a relay and the other cut end to pin 30. Constant hot was connected to pin 87. When I locked the doors and hit the unlock button on the fob, the locks unlocked as expected.
I'll do the same with the pink/green wire tomorrow, as well as the wire from the hatch release switch in the glove box and my install should be done.
I'll do the same with the pink/green wire tomorrow, as well as the wire from the hatch release switch in the glove box and my install should be done.
Appended the top post to include the solution to this thread.
**UPDATE**
Connected the second relay the exact same way and everything is working properly. So, the pink/green and pink/yellow wires need to be cut (NOT tapped into) and connected to pins 30 and 87a (87a going to the switch and pin 30 going to the actuator). When the relay is triggered the actuator on pin 30 goes from closed with the switch through 87a to closed with the alarm through pin 87.
(top post updated)
Connected the second relay the exact same way and everything is working properly. So, the pink/green and pink/yellow wires need to be cut (NOT tapped into) and connected to pins 30 and 87a (87a going to the switch and pin 30 going to the actuator). When the relay is triggered the actuator on pin 30 goes from closed with the switch through 87a to closed with the alarm through pin 87.
(top post updated)
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Ford Mustang Forum
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, reviews, engine swaps, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Cobrajet67
304 Replies
Forddenial
161 Replies
my89foxbody
115 Replies
Recommended Communities
Join now to ask and comment!
