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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here's what I have.
289 stock block and heads.
Performer RPM intake
Holley 600 CFM vacuum secondary
Compitition RV cam
MSD Ignition
Accel super coil
3:55 gears

The car has great power gains at the top end, however, I can't break the tires from a dead stop when just hitting the gas. My question is should I drop the intake down to just the Preformer 289? The power range on the RPM intake is from 1500rpms and the regular performer is from 0 to 6000. Would this give me the deasd stop burnout i'm looking for, and will I still have good top end? I don't want to replace the converter to a stall type because I drive the car on the highway and am already pushing 2600 RPMs at 70 mph.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

After the second gear "chirp" all ya see is my tail lights
 

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My opinion is that a converter that is rated at 1600-2000 rpm would work great in your application. It shouldn't be a problem on the highway, as the stall speed is quite a bit less than cruise rpm. The difference would be remarkable.
Mike
 

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What are the specs on that cam? Lift and duration specifically. You most likely need to swap that stall converter to allow the engine to "spin up" and reach into the power band. I know it's not exactly and fun job, but you'll have a car that makes much better use of the new parts. The converter shouldn't affect your highway rpms unless it's too high of a stall and slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm the 3rd owner of this car since the rebuild and the guy I bought it from only knew how to put gas in it and go. The original owner did'nt list the specs on the cam, only that it is a comp. RV cam. Now, I did a little research and learned the following. I spoke with a tech from Comp. cams and learned that all of their cams are made with a 4 degree advance. So I ran outside, hooked up the timing light and zapped it. What I found was the timing was about 4 degrees BTDC. So I advanced it to TDC (top dead center). Jumped in and damn near pealed the tire off the rim. What a difference. I thought the advance may be too much and cause the valves to ping, but not a sign of that. Guess I should have adjusted the timing when I installed the MSD Ignition and I would have caught this.
So I learned something new today.

Thanks for the info and help guys. I greatly appreciate it.

After the second gear "chirp" all ya see is my tail lights.

:rockwoot:
 

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Now that you have found that timing has been holding you back, you need to get the timing advance rate and total timing tuned in. For a 289/302 total timing should be all in at about 3000 RPM. Automatic trans. cars as soon as 2400 if used for drag racing. These numbers aren't set in stone, but 2400 RPM is as soon as I would go with 3000-3400 RPM to be about what I'd shoot for if used for cruising. Limit the advance to a total of 36-38 degrees. This is the sum of the initial setting plus the amount of centrifugal advance. The centrifugal should start advancing at about 1300 RPM.(Possibly lower depends on camshaft and where idle speed is set)


If you have a vacuum advance, treat it as a completely separate issue, but the total advance with the V/A connected and the engine at it's highest vacuum level should be limited to 52 degrees. This is the total including the base, cent. and vacuum advance. The vacuum advance rate on Fords and aftermarket units (MSD included) is adjustable and the vacuum source can be either full intake manifold vac. or ported vac. off of the carb., whichever works best for you.

Like I said before, a bit of studying on how to set everything up will reap its rewards. Check out Mallory's or MSD's web sites. There's plenty of info to be found.

If you aren't familiar with how the timing set up works on your engine, study up and you may find that with proper adjustment along with a bit of carb tweaking that there is more power on tap than you ever expected.
 
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