Wanting more after 3000 RPMs, stock motor
So I have just gotten 3.73s, which I LOVE, but now I am wanting to make more of the power band (read: 3000RPMs+).
I have your typical beginners mods (listed in signature) and was wondering what was the cheapest route to extend the power past 2800-3000 RPMs, where it feels like it starts to drop off. Its especially annoying on the freeway with the new rear-end gear.
I was thinking about spending less than a grand (<$1000) including labor.
If I could just push the power drop off to like 3500-4000 RPMs, I would be stoked!
Would Mass-air-meter (C&L 76mm), throttle body (70mm), and upper/lower intake (cobra??) do the trick? what about adding cold air intake as well (is it a waste?)?
Doing heads would probably also require some sort of non-stock intake as well, right? which means more money. Plus, heads alone would probably run over $1000 by themselves since I won't be able to put them in myself.
What are some recommendations?
Thanks!
I have your typical beginners mods (listed in signature) and was wondering what was the cheapest route to extend the power past 2800-3000 RPMs, where it feels like it starts to drop off. Its especially annoying on the freeway with the new rear-end gear.
I was thinking about spending less than a grand (<$1000) including labor.
If I could just push the power drop off to like 3500-4000 RPMs, I would be stoked!
Would Mass-air-meter (C&L 76mm), throttle body (70mm), and upper/lower intake (cobra??) do the trick? what about adding cold air intake as well (is it a waste?)?
Doing heads would probably also require some sort of non-stock intake as well, right? which means more money. Plus, heads alone would probably run over $1000 by themselves since I won't be able to put them in myself.
What are some recommendations?
Thanks!
- Status
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
A set of heads (heads and cam would be even better) would help get you more power where you want it. I think your better off saving your money and getting those items rather than investing in a CAI, MAF and intake manifold.
so just heads only (possibly cam)? could it be done for less than $1000? what heads you thinking? explorer irons? used?
thanks
thanks
try getting a cam from ford racing. also roller rockers help increse redline, there for you're able to reach a higher RPM. the throttle body and mass air will help air delivery, but on a stock 5 liter the bigest hold back is the flow of the heads.
I would do both, because of your going to do a cam at a later date then your just spending extra cash on labor, better to just do both at the same time. I doubt it can be done for under $1000 BUT maybe some one in here can guide you to a cheap solution. I personaly dont care for used parts and dont buy them so I wouldnt know where to direct you. But it is without a doubt better to wait and save enough money to do things right the first time, as tempting as it may be to throw the other parts on there, they wont really help you accomplish your goals, not alone anyway.
dwcls said:
The stock intake heads and cam should be making power all the way up to at least 4500 RPM. The car shouldnt really start to pull until about 2500 RPMs. In my opinion if your car isnt pulling after 3000, youve go a problem. Peak Torque isnt even until 3400 RPMs.....
G
I was wondering about this too, until about 2 grand you'd never know I had a V8 except for the noise.
Stangboy5666 said:
Maybe he means its not pulling hard enough? or much? I recall when I was stock and it wasnt anything to brag about in the higher rpms.
Stangboy5666 said:
yeah but you can definitely feel power above 3000, I mean thats coing up on torque peak, that is where the 5.0L feels its best!
I believe he is trying to move his power band UP , instead of having it all down low.
To do anything to your powerband you need to get parts that are designed to operate in that range, period. The only two manifolds that come to mind that offer rpm specific advantages are Trickflow (TFS) and Edelbrock.
When it comes to heads, you have many options. Your intake manifold should compliment your cylinder heads, not the other way around.
It is possible to make 300 hp (at the crank) with a set of GT40p heads, trickflow stage 1 cam, 65mm throttlebody, exhaust work done, and bumping up the fuel pressure some.
To do anything to your powerband you need to get parts that are designed to operate in that range, period. The only two manifolds that come to mind that offer rpm specific advantages are Trickflow (TFS) and Edelbrock.
When it comes to heads, you have many options. Your intake manifold should compliment your cylinder heads, not the other way around.
It is possible to make 300 hp (at the crank) with a set of GT40p heads, trickflow stage 1 cam, 65mm throttlebody, exhaust work done, and bumping up the fuel pressure some.
was going to say the same. my car pulls like crazy after 3000rpm.
Stangboy5666 said:
I'm kinda reading his original post the same as Stangboy, 95.0, and Suspect. Sounds like his motor is dropping off after 3000 RPM and he's wanting a higher RPM band, but, the current "top end" he's starting out with is too low. He needs to figure out what's not right with the stock setup first. I still have my stock heads and intake but mac headers and a flowmaster catback - car pulls solid to 4500+ easily. If he's dying at 3000, sounds like something's wrong with the stock setup - needs some troubleshooting first for a better baseline then go for some hipo parts.
In my opinion its a waste just stop at the heads. Save up for heads, cam, and intake. People like trick flow and edelbrock design their stuff to work together. You see, air/fuel delivery is like a package deal. Intake manifold, cam, and heads all work together as a team. Don't try to mix and match different brands, each brand designs their stuff to work best w/ each other. They put lots of research into this. It would save you on labor to do all 3 at the same time anyways. If you buy heads, save up and get the intake and cam that matches. Intake around $300 or less and cam about $150. Heads are were the power is......
I agree that going the intake, cam, exhaust and heads at the same time is best. I also agree with GhostDog that you need to decide what you are wanting the engine to do since finding the right combo to give you good low end and more top end at the same time can be tricky.
I also agree with the thought that he has something else going on. Granted a stock car will not pull like a big block Cobra, but it should still have some grunt. 3K sound like the point that advance is coming into play in the distributor. I am an old fashion carb guy, so I don't know what is happening in the FI at that point.
He may have had a problem all along and switching to the 3.73's made it just that much more apparent.
I also agree with the thought that he has something else going on. Granted a stock car will not pull like a big block Cobra, but it should still have some grunt. 3K sound like the point that advance is coming into play in the distributor. I am an old fashion carb guy, so I don't know what is happening in the FI at that point.
He may have had a problem all along and switching to the 3.73's made it just that much more apparent.My problem was timing advanced too far.
The balancer had slipped so the timing read wrong. Once a new balancer was put on, the timing read 15 degrees... and I was running 87 octane
Original owner of car had it advanced that much and I never knew
put the timing back down to 10 degrees....WOW! I will work the timing back up after I get sick of having SOO much FUN with an engine that runs semi-optimally!!!
The balancer had slipped so the timing read wrong. Once a new balancer was put on, the timing read 15 degrees... and I was running 87 octane
Original owner of car had it advanced that much and I never knew
put the timing back down to 10 degrees....WOW! I will work the timing back up after I get sick of having SOO much FUN with an engine that runs semi-optimally!!!
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
- Status
Join the discussion
