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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
say a water pump is a counterclockwise rotation does that mean standing in front of the car or sitting in the driver seat counterclockwise
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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thats correct for a stock style waterpump..probably still just air in the cooling system..also make sure timing is set correctly with a timing light
 

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it means standing at the front of the car and looking at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i didnt know timing could cause over heating its set to 34 right now with no tune so ill set it to 10. and limp it to the tuner if itll stop over heating probably going to take the thermostat completly out. see what i get
 

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Is it 34 locked out or base idle at 34?
 

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do not take the t-stat out of a fuel injected car..that's old school nonsense ...that doesnt work...no colder than 180*

do you know how to properly set the base timing on an EFI mustang? you need to remove the SPOUT connector first,then set the timing by turning the dizzy and using a timing light,then bolt the dizzy back down and reinstall the spout...

and i seriously hope 34* is not your base timing..10* base timing is the factory setting,depending on the combo you can usually get 12-18* base at the max
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ya i had 35 degrees with the SPOUT out i dont know were the timing is with the spout in. the temperature goes up slowly and never stops untill i shut it off.
 

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you're way too far advanced..try setting it 12-14* base with the spout out for now,then put the spout back in..with the spout in,the computer will then control the timing advance as the rpms/load increases

is the t-stat good? what temp?
you can test it by putting it in a pot on the stove
water boils at 212*,so the t-stat should fully open before the water boils..pull it out and it should start to close immediately,make sure its closing all the way as it cools

any blockages in the rad or hoses?
 

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Also radiator caps go bad and can't hold the pressure but look into that timing issue as something is very wrong there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the rad looks discusting in the inside it has white crust on everything and its blocking some of the vanes i have an aluminum rad coming monday. i know its flowing coolant the rad hoses are both hot along with the rad. i pulled the old thermostat out yesterday and replaced it. with a stock style. ill post some pics after work
 

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make sure the t-stat is in facing the correct direction..i know it sounds stupid,but its an easy and common mistake
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the car has no problem as long as the rad cap is off itll stay at 160 (which is the t-stat open point) but as soon as i put the cap back on it build pressure and gets hot the radiator cap looks stock and says 15 lbs on it (o ya and putting the battery in the back of the car and the sylonid under the fender really makes it a biotch to time the car)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
here is the inside of the radiator looks good right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well the car overheats when i can get it to stay at 160 or 170 i will def take your advice and replace the 160 t-stat
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well the car is still running hot it gets to 210 before i shut it off i just bought a new misimoto rad 3 core set up installed it let it run for about 10 min had to put water in about 3 or 4 times sqeezed the upper hose a lil bit. i know the t stat is right the head gaskets are right. i dont think i can get it to run at 12 degrees timing. the electric fan is pushings. brand new motor, aluminum heads. with a new electric water temp gauge and sensor.
 

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What electric fan are you running?

And you said pushing.....so is it pushing air thru the radiator or pulling air thru the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
its a summit 18 in and yes it pushes air threw the radiator. when i was burping the system i didnt turn the heater on so imma try that today on a hill (with the noise pointing up hill) see if i cant get some air out. ive also got a digital temp sensor that im gonna try to read the temp in a couple places.
 
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