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Waxing -- How Soon and Best Waxes

7K views 25 replies 21 participants last post by  Waxed'05 GT 
#1 ·
I have had my Windveil Blue for 2 months (2200 miles) and wonder how soon I should be considering the first wax job.

I live in Arizona so the hot weather is only two months away. What wax does anyone feel is the best? I thought Meguiars NXT was the choice but have read several reviews that are not so flattering. I am especially concerned that some report white spots appearing after time.

Windveil Blue, V6, Auto, Leather, Shaker 500, Spoiler, Bob White Decals:cooldude:
 
#2 ·
Well i waxed mine 3 months after i got it. I used Meguires gold class wax. It puts a real good shine on the car. I waxed it 3 weeks ago and the shine still hasnt faded. Im sure there are better products out there but this is the only one ive tryed so far. I applied it with a buffer/polisher i bought at Sears.
 
#4 ·
ninoavila said:
If you haven't already seen this, here are my Car Care Tips.

-Nino
there are generally contaminants fresh from the factory on the paint, so I generally do the Meguiars 3 step process (paint cleaner, polish, and wax) immediately, and finish with gold class.

I do the 3 step 3-4 times a year, and people always remark how good the paint looks . ..
 
#5 ·
Here's my 2 cents worth. I'm a retired Boeing guy but I own an auto detailing business for fun. (Smile & Shine Auto Detailing) I would recommend that the first thing you do is clay bar your car. You will be amazed at the results. After you're done clay barring your car the surface will be as smooth as glass. I did this as soon as I got my car home from the dealer. Then I seal it with Zanio Brothers Z5 show car polish (especially good for swirls on red and black cars) mixed with their Show Car Lok. I then add a coat of Maguires NXT wax. The depth of the shine is amazing. I actually have people come up to me and ask if I've already had a custom paint job done to my car. (It's an 05 Black GT). I do the clay bar thing at least twice a year, the Zanio Brothers sealant every other month and the NXT at least every month.
 
#7 ·
I use "The Wax Shop" products. I use to sell it at one time, but it's the only product I like to use. I used "Safe Cut" rubbing compound to make the paint shine better and make it smooth. Then I use "Super Glaze" (wax) and really makes the car shine and there no white powder mess at all. I would get comments also, my dad's friend asked my dad when did he get the car painted. There's some good products out there and it just a matter of what you like. The only thing it's hard to find in the stores (at least here in San Diego), but you can call (909) 899-6190 and get it. On 6 Mar, I was at the Pomona swapmeet and bought two bottles of the super glaze. You can also go to the web page "The wax shop.com".
 
#8 ·
Using a clay bar is a lot easier than you think. It is amazing what it picks up off your paint, even after a short time on the road! Do one side of your hood or trunk, then feel it compared to the other side. You will be amazed at what it feels like! Then move on to your next step, waxing or glazing. I agree that Zaino makes some of the best stuff out there. The shine is incredible. I have also used the products from Griots Garage, and like those too. I am also a fellow Arizonian, and so I always look for stuff that has a UV protectant in it. The Zaino does. It seems pricey at first, but you use such a small amount that it is worth the extra dollars. With other products like Meguires, I would use half a bottle of wax, with the Zaino, I can do my whole car with less than 2 ounces. You can also look at the great detailing tips on the Proper Auto Care website. Have fun detailing your baby. I know I enjoy every minute of the time it takes to make 'em shine.
 
#9 ·
stangprincess said:
I've never used a clay bar before. Can I screw it up?
Really, the only way you could mess up claying your paint is if you drop the bar on the ground. If that happens, toss it. Don't use it. It will scratch your paint. The only way I felt comfortable using the bar again was to cut the area out with a razor. If you have loose paint/rust, I'd avoid those areas too.

Also, just be sure that your car is clean before you start claying. I only clay a freshly-washed car. Keep it lubricated as you go over the area you're cleaning and don't use too much force, just let the weight of your arm/hand do the work.

That's pretty much all there is to it.

-Nino
 
#12 ·
stangprincess said:
I've never used a clay bar before. Can I screw it up?
I've never used it either, I'm going to test it out first on my 1990 chev beretta before attempting any such thing on my future (next week!) Mustang GT. If you don't have an old car to try it out on, maybe you have a friend that would be willing to let you try.
 
#13 ·
I used Meguiars Clay Bar on an old car without clear coat and it really made the car feel a lot smoother and when I waxed it it came out really nicely. I found that on the old car, the clay got dirty really quickly, so I was a bit concerned about picking up grit and making scratches. I basically kneaded it a lot to protect the paint. I would imagine that on a clean new car, the clay would stay pretty clean and therefore less risky.

I think I'll clay my '05 GT this week and see if I notice any difference. I imagine it can't hurt to run the clay over it once or twice a year using fresh clay.
 
#14 ·
my car is scheduled to be here the end of the month, and i was wondering do i have to strip the wax to clay bar it and wax again? if so, how do i strip it?
 
#15 ·
Hopefully this isn't too off topic . .. well it has to do with washing your car anyway. I just used the MR Clean Auto-Dry Car Wash system and. . . WOW, this thing is awesome. The secondary water here is horrible and after using this I could sit there, sip my beer and watch my black stang dry. It was great!! :green
 
#16 ·
Hi az,

I agree the Zaino stuff is great. I like Glare because of it's ease of use. You don't need two products (like Zaino) and the results are every bit as good. And you MUST try the Spider swirl/scratch remover...I've never seen anything work as well.

Cheers!

azlitigator said:
Speed Triple- Why is this stuff so good. Please explain as I am always looking for good products. Zaino is pretty hard to beat!
 
#17 ·
I did a practise run with the clay on my old car - a 1990 with original paint/clearcoat. The paint is in pretty rough shape with lots of swirls, paint chips, but no oxidization. I didn't notice anything after the clay episode... except that I'm getting bursitis. After the clay I used Meguiar's ScratchX. That did a realy nice job polishing and making a nice shine. Didn't get much of the swirls out, but I wasn't expecting miracles. I suppose I could have applied it a second and third time if I wanted to... maybe next year. I finished with Meguiar's Nxt Gen wax. After 4 hours of work it looks great... except I got wax all over the rubber seals and vinyl mouldings:tongue . I called the 800 line, Meguiar's has another product, Trim Detailer, to undo that. They recommend masking all the areas you don't want wax on... like that's going to happen. And, if one is so inclined, you can add another coat of wax or two within a few minutes of the last for a deeper shine. I'd strongly recommend getting a random orbit buffer/polisher for the job.
 
#18 ·
When to wax and what to use..

I have used Nu Finish for years on my autos and RV and used it on my new Mustang right after I got it home. Easy to apply and lasts a long time. My car was built in December and I purchased in March, so I figured it would be OK. The dealer ordered, painted and installed the spoiler however and told me to wait for 30 days before waxing the new paint... www.nufinish.com/
 
#19 ·
I've been using Zaino for over 8 years after trying just about everything else I could find. Over the years, Zaino has refined their formula. It's one of the easiest waxes to use, it lasts longer than anything I've ever used and it offers a shine that looks like your car is coated in a sheet of glass.

I just put a Zaino Z2 coat on this weekend. Took these pics with the camera on my phone, so the quality isn't the best, but it will give you an idea of what to expect......
 

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#20 ·
Here is the process I would recommend for your car:

* Thorough hand wash and hand dry.
* Clay Bar
* One application of Mequiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
* Two applications of Mequiar's #26 Carnuba Wax
* Occassional re-application of #26 to keep that "slick" feel to the paint.

I have a '97 Ranger that is painted a blue that is very similar in color to the Windveil Blue, and this combination looks great! After 8+ years, my paint still looks like it is in showroom condition, and shines like crazy!

I really think the key is the Clay Bar step that many people often leave out! :thumbsup
 
#21 ·
Anyone have a suggestion about convertible top care? I've been using Ragg Top cleaner and protectant for 5 years and have been satisfied... Holds up well and after pulling my 00 baby next to an identical 00 that had never done any sealing on the top... Man was I impressed! Now with the 05 GT Vert... I'm just wondering if any of you guys have come across anything else or if I should stick w/ the Ragg Top brand.

I've never heard of the Clay bar thing... guess I need to invest in one! Thanks for the tips!
 
#22 ·
I own a new Black Mustang GT and 98 Black Ranger... For all you Deatailers out there I got a Teflon Coat that they sell you a the Dealshit...
I know it does last for 5 years. Is it basically a Wax job?


I was thinking of waxing both cars using the following products and steps. Please lend me any advice you may have.

I WILL BE using Mothers Products in this order:
clay,
PowerPolish,
Reflections Car Wax,
and Reflections Top Coat
 
#23 ·
From what I heard the Zaino Wax is great for dark
colored cars.I use the Meguires Gold Class Wax and
my car always turns out great.I also use the Meguires
NXT Wax on my car also.Meguires is a great quality wax
and I like useing it.
 
#24 ·
SMP said:
I own a new Black Mustang GT and 98 Black Ranger... For all you Deatailers out there I got a Teflon Coat that they sell you a the Dealshit...
I know it does last for 5 years. Is it basically a Wax job?


I was thinking of waxing both cars using the following products and steps. Please lend me any advice you may have.

I WILL BE using Mothers Products in this order:
clay,
PowerPolish,
Reflections Car Wax,
and Reflections Top Coat
Anyone that tells you that a wax lasts any longer than a year MAXIMUM is full of B.S. especially if you live near an ocean or where salt is used in the winter time. The teflon wax is great and easy to use but does NOT last 5 years. Many articles I have read state to wax seasonally, at minimum to maintain the paint. IMHO, since I have managed a full serve wash and detail for six years... You can't ever wax too much but if you wax less than a MINIMAL once or twice per year no matter where you live, with whatever product you may have then you are not protecting the paint to the best of your ability.
... do what you want, just my two cents

Got wax???
 
#25 ·
I'm sold on the claybar concept. But I'm confused about what *type* of wax to use. Seems there are 3 general categories (I'm not so interested in specifc brand discussion)

1) paint sealant
2) polymer based wax
3) carnuba based wax

The mustang manual says to use Motorcraft Paint Sealant 2x per year, then points to Motorcraft Premum Liquid wax (ZC-53-A) which is polymer I think.

Here are my questions
- If you choose the Paint Sealer route, do you also need to wax?
- Which *type* of wax for this particular paint (which I think is clearcoat, right?)? Carnuba based or polymer based?

Also, I have heard that dishwashing detergent (like Dawn) is good to strip any base wax one might have, but the Mustang manual specifically says not to use liquid detergent due to possible discoloration or spotting. Any comment on that (I know you should not use Dawn as your general wash)?

Thanks,
jq
 
#26 ·
For the general population, it is not necessary to "strip" the old wax off unless you have a good coat of wax and wish to polish and then wax. IMHO Any type of paint protection could state that the product is a "sealant" it seals out uv rays, industrial fallout, etc. I would recomment polymer based products because they are more duarble than pure carnauba waxes. Keep in mind that carnauba is an organic product that comes (usually) from the carnauba palm tree native to Brazil. The best advice is to use what you like and as often as possible.
...my two cents
 
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