Weight Reduction

I don't have any extra weight in my car and when I took my car to the track for the first time I removed the passenger seat and back seat, went back a second time and did not remove anything...did not notice any difference, went faster actually lol....the biggest thing you noticed is the subs and amps...those do add a lot of weight. the back seat can't be more than 20lbs I wouldn't think (not sure if they differ between conv or hardtop...

Real weight reduction mods are Tubular K-member, aluminum block, racing seats, and lightweight wheels (although the stock wheels are not that heavy either)...

"They" say that 100 lbs is worth a tenth in 1/4 mile.

OP, I don't get to go to the track (I have a vert and will not pass tech inspection) but if I were able to go.... I would keep the subs back there for everyday but remove on track day, remove spare tire etc and not show up with more than 1/4 tank of gas. If you want to try other stuff like pulling unused seats, etc then go for it. But like Jon said or at least alluded to, weather and track conditions are going to have more of an effect on your time and trap than losing 80 lbs of stuff will. For all the time and energy involved in removing and reinstalling the creature comforts of your vehicle, I would rather focus that energy on the suspension, tires and chassis, which will have a much more noticeable and consistent effect.

well actually hard top seats with all the brackets and everything is around 40 some pounds I weighed but yes most of it is some the subs each sub box with one sub in it weighed 58 pounds and it had two so thats almost 120 right there and the wires was around 15 pounds plus 15 pounds from one amp and 11 from another. I just got tired of the boomy subs which is kind of weird seeing as I do like rap and you would think the opposite about me but I don't know I just felt like changing it up a little and started to mess with my car.

Also SoCal2v you mentioned suspension what are some good mods that will improve my et? Better tires and Rear Lower Control Arms are already on my list and im lowered 1.5in if that even helps at the track but is there anything else kinda new with suspension

Ninjacheezit said:

JohnGT did you miss them after taking them out? or did you end up putting them back in

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Well my 95' GT is the one that was wired up. My new 98' gt has no subs. I miss them a little. It takes some getting used to turning on the radio and not being bombarded by sound waves. The better performance and gas mileage definitely make up for it though.

As for your suspension, a pan-hard bar and traction bars will make that thing grab the earth and slow it's rotation a little. (not really..but you get the point.)

LCA's and subframe connectors ("full length" ones like MM makes) are a good start. For tires, a set of drag radials. I hear street compound tires are just a mothertrucker to launch at the track. Couldn't tell ya if Nitto 555R's or NT05R's or Mickey Thompson's are better than the other as I have no experience with any of them. You will probably want a deicated set of rims to mount them on though, if you use them on the street you will be getting new tires every other oil change.

For decent street tires, I know a guy who's running NT05's (the regular one) on a lightly modded 6.0 GTO and he's been pretty happy with them but even the street compound in those he doesn't expect to get more than 15K out of them. He said he will probably be going back 555's next time or maybe check out Toyo Proxxes or Michelin Pilot Sport's.

Yes struts and shocks will help...For a DD that sees the track a few times a year, you should buy struts/shocks that match your spring rates, for ride comfort, handling, etc...my MM SFC are hopefully going to be installed next weekend so I'll give personal feedback on those when that is done but needless to say everyone says they are basically required for our cars (must be a reason why....).

Ninjacheezit said:

okay cool thanks can't wait to hear. would koni oranges match my eibach pro kit lowering springs? not sure how to match spring rate I was looking on americanmuscle and don't see anything

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Generally, shocks and struts kits are measured by how much dampening the shocks/struts are compared to each other. For example: a daily driver would generally want a 50/50 or 60/40 percentage front to rear (60% front, 40% rear). Extreme setups for drag racing will be something like 30/70 or even 10/90.

Adjustable shocks/struts are the way to go if you only see the occasional track day. General rule of thumb is: firm in the rear, soft in front for drag racing. This is why a lot of people remove their front sway bar before going to the track. Effectively halfs the spring rate in the front since they are not tied together.

finally finished my rear seat delete and got to say for 25 bucks I couldn't be happier. Only has a few flaws and only one is noticeable but not by much. its the little gap I'm showing in the first pic. Sorry pictures kind of suck in the last two.

JonR2006 said:

....plus I like my back seat and it will be useful with our baby on the way.

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"Useful" depends on how broad your definition is, haha. There was a time back in the day when I was going to do a seat delete also; the only thing that was ever in my back seat area was an 18 pack and my dog. Now, my 3 and 5 year old boys fight over who gets to sit on the passenger side because I am unable to move my seat forward enough to give any legroom to whoever's behind me.

OP, looks good! Don't toss the seat though, ya never know if it might be "useful" in the future.

I used 5mm plywood and I used spray adhesive to get the carpet to stick. And you can't really see in the picks but all I have is two push pins holding the top up drilled two holes in the board where the headrest uses bolts

Thanks SoCal, ya planned on keeping my rear seat if I ever plan on using it in just four bolts away of putting it back it ha. After weighing everything I saved 40 pounds my rear seat delete only weighs 9 pounds so a coupe rear seat with seat belts weigh 49 pounds which is crazy

Ninjacheezit said:

I just removed nearly 300 pounds from my GT. (not original 300 pounds half of that is from the aftermarket sound system that was in it two subs amp all the wire) but anyways it is a night and day difference I couldn't believe how much quicker it felts maybe it was in my mind? but it felt like a huge difference also a little louder without the rear seats now ha

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Is this your only car? If so, is it really worth it to sacrifice nice street manners ( noise reduction, good enterainment system) for "slightly" better performance at the track?

In my opinion, the days of sacrificing the street ability of your daily driver and turning it into a rolling tourture chamber by ripping out seats, noise insulation, AC, heat, stereo and installing solid mounts, bushings, etc is old school.

Thanks to modern technology, yesterday's rolling tourture chambers have given way to cars with full and insulated interior, all the seats, AC, Heater, DVD, navigation, nice and quite exhaust and a smooth suspension that wont beat you to death that run 10's and quicker.

Do it right and you can have it all.