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I've been reading and thinking about waterless coolant like Evans. What about that? Any real world experiences to share? How popular is this and is it really working the way they claim?

Thanks
Ron
 

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It works. I know several people who use it and also several who swear it can't possibly work. To me the results of the first group proves the second group wrong.

The biggest problem I found was it is expen$ive and difficult to get. The engine usually runs a few degrees warmer but there is no danger of boiling. Boiling is what causes the big problems. There is little if any pressure in the radiator also since you never approach the boiling point of the coolant which is somewhere above 350F.

Its easiest to convert if your engine is torn down for a rebuild. Once it has had water in it there is a flushing process needed to remove the water already in there. That can be done with much cheaper Sierra antifreeze used without water but its still a moderately big, and somewhat expensive undertaking. Some 18-wheelers use it because they can then raise engine temps; they get better MPG by running the engine hotter. No HP loss from a fan and less diesel fuel consumed is good for someone driving 100k miles a year at 5 MPG.

Do I use it? No. :)
 

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My personal concern is the raising of the temps. and the possibility of inducing detonation as a result. That could end catastrophically in a supercharged engine, so it seems counter-intuitive for me personally.

The information presented in the video on J’s garage is being presented by a sales/marketing guy rather than an independent engineer. Even though J said he’s used it in one of his cars for a long time, he didn’t seem enthusiastically convinced either. Also I don’t like that adjusting the fan profile in the tune needs recalibration to accommodate the increased heat. I’d rather not have any increased heat from my coolant.

For my application, I feel like it’s better to hold what I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It works. I know several people who use it and also several who swear it can't possibly work. To me the results of the first group proves the second group wrong.

The biggest problem I found was it is expen$ive and difficult to get. The engine usually runs a few degrees warmer but there is no danger of boiling. Boiling is what causes the big problems. There is little if any pressure in the radiator also since you never approach the boiling point of the coolant which is somewhere above 350F.

Its easiest to convert if your engine is torn down for a rebuild. Once it has had water in it there is a flushing process needed to remove the water already in there. That can be done with much cheaper Sierra antifreeze used without water but its still a moderately big, and somewhat expensive undertaking. Some 18-wheelers use it because they can then raise engine temps; they get better MPG by running the engine hotter. No HP loss from a fan and less diesel fuel consumed is good for someone driving 100k miles a year at 5 MPG.

Do I use it? No. :)
Thanks, you totally answered my biggest, next question... I was wondering about the corrosion, wouldn't make sense to just convert an existing 289 like mine, or any other existing water cooled engine for that matter. You'd have to have a new or rebuilt block with ALL the cooling system components replaced in order to get the "lifetime of the engine" benefit they claim ;)
 

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...You'd have to have a new or rebuilt block with ALL the cooling system components replaced in order to get the "lifetime of the engine" benefit they claim ;)
With enough flushing you could do it otherwise but its not nearly so easy. You don't need 100% removal but something like 98-99%.
 

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The greatest thing since sliced bread!!!

Arco Graphite
Slick 50
Prolong
Splitfire
Coil wire inserts for "super spark power"
Gasoline "pellets" for super economy

I'll stick to water and antifreeze.
Randy
 

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If you really want to be careful about corrosion, just be sure to use distilled water with your antifreeze. It does make a difference.
 

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It works. I know several people who use it and also several who swear it can't possibly work. To me the results of the first group proves the second group wrong.

The biggest problem I found was it is expen$ive and difficult to get. The engine usually runs a few degrees warmer but there is no danger of boiling. Boiling is what causes the big problems. There is little if any pressure in the radiator also since you never approach the boiling point of the coolant which is somewhere above 350F.

Its easiest to convert if your engine is torn down for a rebuild. Once it has had water in it there is a flushing process needed to remove the water already in there. That can be done with much cheaper Sierra antifreeze used without water but its still a moderately big, and somewhat expensive undertaking. Some 18-wheelers use it because they can then raise engine temps; they get better MPG by running the engine hotter. No HP loss from a fan and less diesel fuel consumed is good for someone driving 100k miles a year at 5 MPG.

Do I use it? No. :)
Reaching the boiling point is not responsible for pressure build-up. Some pressure, called "vapor pressure" is present even with cold fluid. The vapor pressure increases with increasing temperature, hence the HISS when opening a radiator cap at far below boiling temp.
 

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I tried it once without success. Went back to 50/50 ethylene glycol and water which worked fine.

Chas

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