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What can I beat?

1171 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  95MGTS
I know this is not a race or kill story but I figured I'd post it in here since there has been alot of races here and alot of people that know about how fast other car are.

First off here is the list of mods:

1994 GT AODE: TrickFlow Twisted Wedge heads, Trickflow Street Intake, TFS stage 1 Cam, TFS 1.6 RR, BBK shorty headers, O/R H pipe, magnaflow magnapack catback, 70mm TB, 75mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 190lph, pulleys, MAC CAI, 4:10 gears, rebuilt AODE with shift kit and 2000-2200 stall converter, Chip, NX WET KIT!

(All cars being stock)
All from a roll 20-40 punch to 90mph (nothing too high)

ALL MOTOR I was wondering If I could beat cars/truck like a
-Dodge Neon srt-4
-Nissan 350 Z
-Evo and STI
-Mach 1 and 05 GT
-LT1 corvette
-LS1 camaro and firebird
-99+ SVT lightning

With a 100 shot of nitrous
-03-04 cobra
-05 GTO
-New 425 hp dodge Charger

The reason I have it from a roll is because I don't go to the track often (1/8) and when I do I make sure the bottle is full.I just want to see if my car could hold it's own against other fast vehicles on the street.
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If you don't go to the track, get a GTECH. The thing was within .1 of a second vs the track timers for me and it gives alot more information vs the track timers.

It seems with your mods you should be able to handle everything listed, but there are alot of variables to. Traction, driver, etc. Now way to really tell until you race. But with the Gtech you will know if your in the neighborhood or not. The STI and EVO are capable of 13.3 and 13.4 stock. There is a guy on the dodge forums turning a 12.8 in a SRT8 300. With your mods on NX, you should easily be able to do a 12.8, as long as you have traction....
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warcat said:
I've been wondering about those things. Tell me more... How does it work? Is it worth the 200 bones I'll have to lay down for one?
If you don't make it to the track often, I think its definitely worth it. With the computer software you can load 4 passes and compare. It also gives you: 60 foot, 330, 1/8, 1000, 1/4 mile ET and mph just like the track, but it also does: 0-30, 40, 50, 60, 70, etc in 10 mph increments, braking distances, it has a shift light, a tach, a rollout setting so you can duplicate exactly how you stage at the track, and you can even practice on your reaction times if you want. You can also graph your rpms during a run, the g's, mph vs time, distance vs time, etc.

I have found it most useful to measure the difference a modification makes. And the best part is it just plugs into the cig lighter. The calibration only takes a few minutes, but I also tested its accuracy at the track, I wanted to be sure it was giving accurate numbers and it was.
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I run mine at the track. It gives alot more info then the time slip. As far as the mph, mine was off 2 mph at first, but in the instructions they give you a formula to plug in the numbers to correct the pitch in the calibration. Once I did that, the mph was exact.

As far as the ET, it was within 1 tenth but now its more accurate because I stage the exact way as what I tell the GTECH. I shallow stage now, that way I know my car is exactly 12 inches away from the first timer. If you deep stage, but tell the GTECH that you are shallow staging, a different ET will result. Its all in the instructions, but in the end, if you calibrate it at the track you can get almost exact results, as long as you stage the same way that you set the GTECH.

I got mine on EBAY....I also got the RR, which has the road race functions in addtion to the drag race functions, and it comes with the computer software. The SS only has the drag race functions and no software.
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