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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys, I’m wondering what should I do for maintenance since I just hit 80,000 on my mustang? For a brief background I’ve been doing my own oil changes every 5,000 miles. I make sure all my levels are always topped off to the correct measure. I use this car on the daily but I don’t abuse it. Only things I’ve had replaced were : a serpentine belt, water pump, rotors/brake (upgraded to a better braking system) & air filter. Any advice or tips would be appreciated !

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The oem maintenance frequency chart is very good, but, here is what I have always done on every vehicle i have ever owned......

Engine Management System
• 100,000 Miles Oxygen Sensor Replace

Electronic Fuel Injection System
• Annual Throttle Body & Assembly Inspect, Clean & Lubricate as Necessary
• 6 Months Fuel Injectors Add BG Brand Fuel Injector Cleaner to Fuel Tank
• 30,000 Miles Fuel Filter Replace

Fuel Lines
• 5 Years Non-EFI Rubber Replace

Cooling System
• Annual Anode/Cathodic Protection Inspect
• 5 Years Radiator Drain & Flush System
• 5 Years Hoses Replace

Power Steering
• 5 Years Hoses Inspect & Replace as Necessary
• 30,000 Miles Fluid Drain & Refill

• 4 Years V-Drive Replace
• 5 Years Serpentine Replace

• 30,000 Miles Automatic Transmission Fluid Drain & Refill
• 30,000 Miles Automatic Transmission Filter Replace as Necessary
• 30,000 Miles Stick with Automatic Type Fluid Drain & Refill

• 30,000 Miles Fluid Drain & Refill

Brakes & Assemblies
• Annual Drums, Rotors & Linings Surface Sand, Degrease, Inspect & Replace as Necessary
• Annual Drum Brake Springs Inspect/Replace
• Annual Fluid- Silicone Type Bleed System
• 3 Years Fluid- Conventional Type Bleed System
• 30,000 Miles Wheel Bearings Inspect, Clean & Repack (your car has sealed bearings that are non-serviceable)

• 6 Months Tires Rotate

Not to drag on, but the cooling system I also take a different approach on other than just drain/flush/fill and let me explain in much more detail....


1. Nothing substitutes a periodic flush of the radiator

2. When I drain the coolant, I place a doubled up paper towel over the funnel which filters to less than 3 microns (much better then any of the inline filters)- in terms of contaminants, the coolant is now as clean as when it came out of the original bottle. Provided it meets all the other test I do, it is reinstalled in the vehicle.

3. I have installed a magnesium anode in all overflows (same electrolysis protection used per code for all underground tanks)- Zinc anodes are available as well (JC Whitney, etc.) specifically for automotive applications and sell for about $6- they attract all the nasty stuff that destroys radiators, pumps, hoses etc and they become the sacrificial lamb- and keeps the ph of the fluid neutral. The inside of my cooling system and related components is spotless- literally!

4. I check the ph (using a swimming pool kit) - and check the alcohol content using a conventional coolant bulb type test device ($10 at any parts store)

the results.....

1. Contaminant production is eliminated by 90%+ as a result of the neutral ph maintenance

2. Contaminants that are produced are contained outside of the system flow, in the overflow at the anode. At this point I have less contaminant in my system than if I used an inline filter because we have eliminated 90% of the production and contained the residual.

3. With the paper towel, I can actually see the residual system contaminants (which you can typically count) and by most accounts visually know if a potential problem exist by the type and color of the products. The coolant is as clean as if I had opened a fresh container.

4. The system is clean and performance level known.

My personal results...

My father (an ol salt flats racer & aerospace engineer) starting this in the 1950's and typically the conventional coolant lasts 10-20 years in the vehicle before requiring replacement. Prestone did a test for longitivity on coolant long before the extended requirement came to 13 years they stopped the test because there was no degradation.

I cannot remember repairing a radiator or heat exchanger or water pump during my 50+ years on this earth on any of my family's vehicles- (I take that back, I replaced 2 water pumps on my 1990 F150 when due to a pulley tension/alignment problem it ate two bearings/seals, my fault as I didn't check it the 1st time, but at 80,000 miles I was not too surprised to see a leak from the water pump bearing). We typically keep our vehicles for 10+ years.

Hope this helps................
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