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looking to change my oil in my 69. it has a 351w built to about 350 hp, manual 5 speed tranny. Was thinking about going with royal purple but not sure if its worth the money. what to all you guys run?
 

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Mobil 1 and Fram Tough Guard for 12 years and 90,000 miles.
 

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Hello.:) Mobil1 15-50 is what I've used in my car for over ten years of daily driving, and the motor still acts just like it did when I dropped it back in there. Compression's the same, oil consumption's the same. No discernable difference between right now and when the motor was freshly rebuilt. I use the 15-50 because it gets pretty hot here sometimes. :)
 

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have used mobile 1 and r/p for many years. both very good. like veronica says 15-50, so many people want to use to light oil. my 99 chevy p/u just rolled over 350,000. :happyhapp
 

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I like oils that have zinc in them for the flat tappet motors, Valvoline VR1. If you are running roller lifters then I like mobil 1. Didn't know that Castrol made a syc with zinc.
 

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i have used Valvoline 10w 30 in every thing i own and i torcher all of my vehicles an have never had a problem Mobil one is a good synthetic oil also royal purple is a good oil but i would not recommend using a Fram filter because i have seen them come a part and sharve a engine componets for oil on mutple ochashions make sure you use a qulity oil filter not a cheep o filter you can go back to a motorcraft filter for it i belive the filter # is fl1a but i am not sure. the wieght of the oil is the ableility of the oil is its ability to flow at a cold tempretor like 10w is the ability of oil to reman thin at a cold temp for ease of staring a way to see this is get a bottle of strate 30 weaght oil and 10 30 and put in freezer and see which pores easyer the second number is the oils visicosiy is how thick the easy oil is to flow to thick and will starve engine for oil becose pump can not pump it the oil weaght is deturmined by survice tempretor climite were you live hoter year round you can use a heavyer oil 10-40 / 10-50 colder 10-30 / 5/20 the most car manufactor recomend 10-30 10-40 in older cars
 

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I like mobil one synthetic and you can get it at most quick change places. yeah I know it sounds weird to do all my own mechanic work on the car but have the oil changed at jiffy lube but the fact is that dragging the oil in to dispose of it is a pain. I just drop it off and go get a soda while it gets done.
 

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Shell Rotella T full synthetic 5W-40 with Motorcraft FL-1A filter. I use it in both my flat tappet and roller tappet engines. Cost is less and it still contains a slightly higher level of Zinc Phosphate. All of my engines have the oil and filter changed at 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first, religiously. These engines get worked pretty hard.

I don't use it in my late model Duratech V6. This engine requires a 5W-20 and Synthetic Rotella T isn't available in this weight. There I use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend and Motorcraft Filter. When I bought my Taurus (New) with the Duratech, the only 5W-20 weight oil that was available was Motorcraft Syn-Blend. I have stayed with it since. I personally don't think that a blend oil is going to have any detrimental effect on an engine that is driven under normal conditions as long as you maintain a 3000 mi/3 mo oil change interval. That's the important factor when a blend is used.

I also stay away from Fram filters. They aren't of the quality that they used to be years ago.
 

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but have the oil changed at jiffy lube . I just drop it off and go get a soda while it gets done.
Man, you have more faith than I have, I wouldn't let anyone at "Iffy" Lube get near any of my vehicles!!!!!!
 

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not faith, I check everything they do afterwards. but they do a good job as long as it is limited to what they do. and believe me when they see a classic mustang come in that is well cared for they do take extra care with it. the people who work at those places in general are young but they are ussually car buffs so they do respect a classic. I have never had an issue with them. but I do still check.
 

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I used to work for my city's fleet maintainance garage. The city had a contract with Jiffy Lube for oil and lube jobs. We had a truck that was experiencing brake problems. Came to find out that Jiffy Lube had done a lube job. They thought that the brake bleeders were grease fittings.

Also had problems with having the wrong oil filters installed. This in one instance caused a slow oil leak and the engine seized when all of the oil leaked out. Then the problems with drain plugs being left loose. We had a bunch of those. In a year's time, Jiffy Lube had to pay for three new engines.

What really bothers me, personally, is if they are installing the correct oil for my engine. Who's to know is they have their bulk oil dispenser connected to the oil drum with the right oil in it. There's just too many issues for me. Even at my age, (I'm no Spring Chicken), I still do all of my own oil changes. This is for 3 cars and 2 trucks. I guess I'm not a trusting soul, but I am getting some excercise.
 

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After working at a garage and seeing a guy left the oil pan plug drain off or loose i trust no one with my car.That guy blew up 6 different engines before they fired him.I have also seen them over tighten lugnuts and snap the stud or break the lug.And these guys passed there ase test so be picky who you use.
 

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I was using factory weight Valvoline Durablend in my 97 4.6 Cougar. I just had my 2003 V6 Stang changed with Kendall synthetic. Firestone already had the car jacked up and I didn't feel like changing the oil in the rain. I will be using Mobil 1 starting with the next oil change. We used Mobil 1 in the 1990 Cougar 3.8 and got over 200k miles and the only problem we had was the darn head gasket the older 3.8s like to blow.
 

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FL1A and VR1 20-50, though will also use Rotella-T 15-40. I checked with Shell and the Rotella-t oil ( non synth ) still has enough zinc for flat tappet engines.
 

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I've never been a huge believe in synthetic oil...after all I get 200K + miles on dinasaur oil on a standard 5.0, and that's plenty for me.

However, I recently picked up a 5.0 crate motor from my friend that had 50k ISH miles on it.

I pulled the pan off to swap it for another, and I'll be damned...it looked literally brand new. None of that bad yellow staining you get from regular oil. I pulled the valve covers off, and everything was clean as the day it was installed.

I pulled the head off later, and the cylinder walls were virgin.

I decided to stick with synthetic, after I saw first hand how well it kept care of the engine. I use mobile 10/30 with an fl1a ford filter
 

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In my 1969(specs below) I run Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10w-30
 
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