[Foxybody95]

Hey guys I recently built a small block 302 for my fox and as cliche as a question as this is what brand and viscosity of oil would you recommend? I was going to go with royal purple but that stuffs blown 2 motors and a supercharger in my family I know everyone will argue with that but I witnessed it happen so that stuff doesn't sit well with me. So what brands make a good full synthetic that will hold up in my fully built 306 and what viscosity would you recommend?

 

[Slopony86]

I would say that Mobile1 is the best and would highly recommend it, but not for engine break in. I run Mobile1 10w-30 full synthetic in mine and have been for 5 years. I would recommend using conventional engine oil for the initial break in period and then add the synthetic of your choice.

 

[SmokeyJo5.0]

Valvoline 10w-30 full synthentic. If havoline was still a thing I would suggest that. When Valvoline is not available I use mobil 1 or castrol.

 

[SmokeyJo5.0]

I used conventional Valvoline 10w-30 with a break in additive, but alot of people just use rotella diesel engine oil for break in just because of simplicity.

 

[squekster]

Hey guys I recently built a small block 302 for my fox and as cliche as a question as this is what brand and viscosity of oil would you recommend? I was going to go with royal purple but that stuffs blown 2 motors and a supercharger in my family I know everyone will argue with that but I witnessed it happen so that stuff doesn't sit well with me. So what brands make a good full synthetic that will hold up in my fully built 306 and what viscosity would you recommend?

Of course everybody has their own preference
but personally I think that redline makes the best
synthetic. The zinc and phosphorus content of
there oils are very high and that means less engine
wear. Unfortunately it is very expensive. Amsoil
makes a good oil too it has a high anti wear
properties also. I would use 10/40 wt. I actually
run a diesel motor oil in my 306, Shell rotella
10w/40 .

 

[new8514]

I've always run Valvoline 10w-30 but it what my dad always used so I like it, never had an issue. I honesty wouldn't run Royal Purple if someone gave it to me. I also won't by a used car if I see it has a Fram filter. I know you didn't ask about filters but I like Wix.

For synthetic I wouldn't have a problem with Valvoline since I've always used their regular oil.

Oil seems to be a matter of opinion, you can find tests online, but if the tests are from the company selling the oil you know the results would be.


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[Foxybody95]

Valvoline it is! I really like red line and amsoil but i work at a shop that sells valvoline so i get it for 50% off so im glad its a good choice thanks guys!

 

[fordman777]

Motorcraft oil filters. Are you running a hydraulic roller cam?

I like valvoline oil myself!

 

[Blt2Lst]

Now a days you cant just use oil based on brand names alone. Because of the reduction of ZDDP (zinc) in motor oils over the years (just google it), most motor oils do not have enough ZDDP to protect engines that use a Hydrauilc Flat Tappet Cam. If you do run a hydraulic cam, you need to use a oil with a high ZDDP content like Valvoline VR1 racing oil or you can use an addative with your oil to raise the ZDDP content. If you are running a roller cam, the ZDDP issue is not a problem and you can just use any brand oil you chose without adding an addative.
Just do some internet research on this subject and you will be surprised to find out that the oil you are using does not have the protection it used to have for cars running a hydraulic cam.

 

[mhuggler]

I don't run cats so I can run diesel oil. Best oil analysis results came from Caterpillar 10W-30 DEO.(Same as Mobil Delvac)

 

[Diggerauditor]

For break in you need to use a non-detergent oil. This may not be well known but it helps with break in and seats the rings quickly. This is an old school procedure. You should also know that modern oils are mere byproducts of the refining process and aren't manufactured for the express process of lubricating an engine where as synthetics are manufactured for the express purpose of lubricating engines. That being said, I use Mobile1 extended life synthetic in all of my cars and trucks. My Mustang now has over 275K miles on it and running strong and using no oil, except for the drain plugs leaking since you cant buy the original type plugs and o-ring washer. My Expedition has 187K on it and going strong also. I saw that Walmart by me has non-detergent oil. If you cant find any, which is hard to believe, just use reg old 30W oil for break in. Hope this helps.

 

[audioAl]

I always use Lucas Oil Stabilizer 1 qt. when I change oil. Valvoline or Castrol Edge.

 

[mhuggler]

You should also know that modern oils are mere byproducts of the refining process and aren't manufactured for the express process of lubricating an engine where as synthetics are manufactured for the express purpose of lubricating engines.

Sooooo....the real purpose of refining crude oil is just to make your Vaseline and the hundred other things derived from crude are just byproducts?

 

[93mustang]

I bought a Ford Racing Gt40 crate motor back in 2008. I use the car for drag racing only. I called Ford Racing and asked what oil to use for break in and drag racing. I also asked the question if I should go easy on it during the break in process. They told me to run a name brand conventional 10w30 oil in it for all above mentioned and I could take it to the track and drag race it as I usually do. That's it.The only thing that they said was that it would not reach max. horsepower until the break in period was reached, I think it was 500 miles. So I ran Valvoline conventional 10w30 for the break in, then ran Valvoline 10w30 VR-1 Racing Oil for a few years. It's about $6.50 a quart. And used the FL-1A Motorcraft filter. I also talked to Valvoline on what product of there's I should run and they said VR-1 which is conventional apposed to using there synthetic. VR-1 has anti-foaming agents for high rpms. My crate motor B-303 cam peaks hp at 5100 rpms and I shift at 5600 rpms to keep it in the power band (Stick Shift Car) Hit the finish line at about 5900 rpms roughly. The last few years I have been running just Valvoline conventional. No problems, the engine runs is like new. Just my 2 cents. Just change your oil on a regular basis and it will be fine. Things are different for higher revving, nitrous, boost, and high compression cars