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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1997 3.8L V6 mustang. I just put ported and polished upper and lower intakes, heads, cam and, long tube headers on my car. My question is, what gear and stall combination should I go with? My car is obviously an automatic, and my current gears are stock. Since I installed these items, my power band moved way up in the R.P.M. range. Basically, my car is even slower off the line than when it was stock. I would like to get some opinions on different set ups. Anything helps! Thanks guys and girls.
 
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Welcome to AFM! For an auto I'd suggest 4.10s. You can check out our V6 sections and see what other members are running.

Thanks for joining and have fun!:bigthumbsup
 

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I would agree with Snackmaster. 4.10s. Minimum of 3.73.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
torque converter question

I've been thinking 4.10's as well. I really think that my primary question is the torque converter. I don't really know much about them. I orderd all my stuff from supersixmotorsports.com. The gentleman (Tom) told me he reccomended at least a 3000 rpm stall. I was just thinking that this is a little high. I'm not a track guy, this is my old daily driver. I would still like to drive it on the street. Do you guys think that this is a little excessive? Do you think that a 2800 would be okay? Like i said, I just dont know much about stalls. Thanks again for your responses.
 
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Let me move this to the V6 Tech section and get you some more input.

Keep us posted!
 

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It's not your primary DD right now is it? I would probably go with a 2800-3000 I'm looking for one right now too, found one from mustangsunlimited for $270 (2800 stall) I don't remember if it fits the trans you have or not but it's a good starting point, as with gears 4.10's sound good if it's just a fun car
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No, it's not my daily driver anymore. I've got a new chevy truck provided by my company that I don't have to pay for the fuel in. That was one thing that went to complete $hit after I put the motor back together. My primary concern is that a 3000 rpm stall might be a little much for a street car. Thats why I posted this question. I'm trying to get as much input as possible so that I can make a choice that i'm likely to be happy with. Any and all suggestions or comments are welcome, except from the guy that tells me I should've bought a GT for the money i spent. Thanks again!
 

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No, it's not my daily driver anymore. I've got a new chevy truck provided by my company that I don't have to pay for the fuel in. That was one thing that went to complete $hit after I put the motor back together. My primary concern is that a 3000 rpm stall might be a little much for a street car. Thats why I posted this question. I'm trying to get as much input as possible so that I can make a choice that i'm likely to be happy with. Any and all suggestions or comments are welcome, except from the guy that tells me I should've bought a GT for the money i spent. Thanks again!
ESG-642T daily drives a 3500rpm stall car, 3000 will be ok for you, it's not like you'll have to worry about it a lot since you don't drive it to work, just a car to mess around in
 

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The stall in my AOD is a 3700 non lockup. I love driving it around town/highway...all of it. I DO have "3" tranny coolers though. (radiator, 4 pass cooler, and a 6 pass cooler with a high speed fan.) In the 100-104* heat we had a couple of weeks ago, my trans temp stuck at or just below 180* on the highway, in town, and at the drag strip. I think a 3k would be fine. It wouldn't ever hit that high unless you were REALLY pushing it. Normal driving you would notice a little difference, just higher RPM per movement. if it was not a lock up converter especially. Just put a good transmission cooler on it and go!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is probably a stupid question, but what is the difference between a lock-up and a non lock-up torque converter? I haven't the slightest clue.
 

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Question nobody has asked:

What are you mods?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have P&P upper/lower intakes, heads, cam, bbk 56mm TB, pulleys, screamin demon coils/wires, L/T headers, O/R x-pipe, flow's, C.A.I., stock tranny, and stock gears. soon to be 4.10's. oh and one of those cheap @ss chip things that probably doesn't even work.
 

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I have P&P upper/lower intakes, heads, cam, bbk 56mm TB, pulleys, screamin demon coils/wires, L/T headers, O/R x-pipe, flow's, C.A.I., stock tranny, and stock gears. soon to be 4.10's. oh and one of those cheap @ss chip things that probably doesn't even work.
If your talking about one of those $70 chips from eBay take that b**** out before it hurts something, get a real dyno tune, if you don't have one of those already your probably missing a bunch of power and there is no telling how the car is running now
 

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If your talking about one of those $70 chips from eBay take that b**** out before it hurts something, get a real dyno tune, if you don't have one of those already your probably missing a bunch of power and there is no telling how the car is running now
+1

you need a real tune.

A lock up converter makes your converter 100% "efficient" by locking the rotating parts in the converter together while in overdrive. If you bump the gas a little in OD with a lockup converter your RPMs will not jump up. Your car currently has this setup. Great for gasmileage. A nonlockup is pretty obvious. The converter will never lock together in OD to rotate as one piece on the input shaft. SO>....bump the gas in OD and the rpms will jump up according to how hard to pedal it, up to your stall speed. High HP cars that don't drive all the time generally have nonlockup converters, though not always. Daily drivers usually want the lockup for gas mileage. Unless you live in a really hilly area, I'd just go ahead and get a nonlockup...WITH a great transmission cooler!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It is one of those things from Ebay. I am removing it when i get home. My car runs decent, it's actually slower off the line that it was stock. My power band is way up there in the RPM range. I know with gears my acceleration will improve drastically. But what about the stall? Thats why I originally posted this question. Lock-up, Non lock-up, what does it all mean? I know with all the mods that I have, my car has true potential. I also know to unlock this potential, I need to get my stall right. Can you help?
 

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I have P&P upper/lower intakes, heads, cam, bbk 56mm TB, pulleys, screamin demon coils/wires, L/T headers, O/R x-pipe, flow's, C.A.I., stock tranny, and stock gears. soon to be 4.10's. oh and one of those cheap @ss chip things that probably doesn't even work.
Alright first step: Get to a dyno, get the car tuned, bring back the graph, I can tell you what stall to get.
 

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Alright first step: Get to a dyno, get the car tuned, bring back the graph, I can tell you what stall to get.
That would be the best way to go. That way we can get you closer to your power band, but not so far that you run out of converter too fast.

I'm guessing your peak power is 5200-5500 rpm, maybe a tad higher. I explained the difference between a lockup and non-lockup converter already. Google it if that didn't make sense. Use a lockup converter for best gas mileage and less of a hot rod. Use a non lockup for a "hotrod" where mpg is not the major goal. Any converter larger than stock is an improvement for you. I'm guessing 2500-2800 would be good. But if you can show the dyno graph of it's power band, that would be best.
 

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If his built singleport is anything like my built splitport it's around the 6000+ area, I know SSM probably ported the crap outta everything so it should flow a long way, unless he got a smaller cam, but since yentzer recommend a 3000+ converter it is probably a big cam, can't wait to see what power you make jeremyron86 :bigthumbsup
 
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