If you are principally cruising, you don't need to change the stock unit. The purpose of stall converter is essentially to hide the fact that performance cams can suck in bottom end performance. The cam companies want you to put a higher stall converter to spin up engine higher before moving.
On a race engine on the track - sure, it lets you launch at your engine peak torque to get you moving as fast as possible. But for a street cruiser, not needed. I would recommend a good shift kit though.
My 90 GT has a similar engine set up as you are proposing - GT40 3 bars, Crower 15512 cam, 1.7RR, Explorer intakes, 70mm TB and EGR, 76mm MAF, 24 lbs injectors, shorty headers with full 2.5" exhaust - power estimate 320-350. My 150k AOD was totally stock except a Lentech Street Terminator valve body - my big fat 3800 lb car would trap a 1/4 mile on the street at 103 mph launching from idle. I would still have it in the car except I killed 3rd gear powershifting at 5500 rpm last year. I'll rebuild it someday with the guts from a 4R70W, but a T5 from a 94GT lives in the car now.
Good luck with the build and keep us in the loop with progress.
On a race engine on the track - sure, it lets you launch at your engine peak torque to get you moving as fast as possible. But for a street cruiser, not needed. I would recommend a good shift kit though.
My 90 GT has a similar engine set up as you are proposing - GT40 3 bars, Crower 15512 cam, 1.7RR, Explorer intakes, 70mm TB and EGR, 76mm MAF, 24 lbs injectors, shorty headers with full 2.5" exhaust - power estimate 320-350. My 150k AOD was totally stock except a Lentech Street Terminator valve body - my big fat 3800 lb car would trap a 1/4 mile on the street at 103 mph launching from idle. I would still have it in the car except I killed 3rd gear powershifting at 5500 rpm last year. I'll rebuild it someday with the guts from a 4R70W, but a T5 from a 94GT lives in the car now.
Good luck with the build and keep us in the loop with progress.
