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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if this is where i should post but either way, what type of Motor oil should i use? I have a 1999 V6 mustang with around 223k miles on it, im gonna sell it when i trade up but it wont be for a couple years so i want to make sure it runs strong until then
 

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With that many miles on the engine i would use whatever oil has been used on it in the past. I would be changing it every 3k if it were my vehicle. Do you know what has been used in it?
 

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I have 196K on my engine and I use Mobil 1 synthetic and it's great--no issues. I'd used Castrol Edge and Castrol Syntec in the past and those were great, as well. Though you hadn't asked about filters, I thought that I'd mention that I'd considered something like a Fram high mileage filter, but there's a goop in there that is released at intervals/ periods that I'm not sure that I trust. I've ran a K&N oil filter in conjunction with synthetic oils and it's been great.

My gaskets (likely stock) have the usual oil sweating on them, but I've used all of these products in weather that has ranged from -40 to +40 with no reliability or drivability issues and the engine is still going strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With that many miles on the engine i would use whatever oil has been used on it in the past. I would be changing it every 3k if it were my vehicle. Do you know what has been used in it?
when i first got it i just took it to any mechanic that would do it for 20-25$, last year my dad changed it for me a couple times and i think he used Castrol GTX synthetic blend high mileage. its been a probably 6-8 months since then.
 

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Many years ago, going from dino oil to full syn on an older motor was a no-no. The old engines can develop very tiny leaks etc and the dino oil is actually creating a seal. The older synthetics contained detergents, and when you switched, it could cause the old oil that was keeping everything sealed up, to suddenly break up and then you end up with tiny leaks everywhere.

That said, I am pretty sure those days are over. If someone could confirm this, I would appreciate it. I don't think the full synthetics contain those detergents anymore and should be safe. OTOH, at this point, I am not sure how much difference a full synthetic would make if it had dino oil in it all those miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have 196K on my engine and I use Mobil 1 synthetic and it's great--no issues. I'd used Castrol Edge and Castrol Syntec in the past and those were great, as well. Though you hadn't asked about filters, I thought that I'd mention that I'd considered something like a Fram high mileage filter, but there's a goop in there that is released at intervals/ periods that I'm not sure that I trust. I've ran a K&N oil filter in conjunction with synthetic oils and it's been great.

My gaskets (likely stock) have the usual oil sweating on them, but I've used all of these products in weather that has ranged from -40 to +40 with no reliability or drivability issues and the engine is still going strong.
My dad used Castrol Gtx synthetic blend on mine before and i think it was motorcraft oil filter, and i have gotten a fram before but i didn't know the filter would have a significant affect on the car. what about the viscosity? should i use 5-30 or what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Many years ago, going from dino oil to full syn on an older motor was a no-no. The old engines can develop very tiny leaks etc and the dino oil is actually creating a seal. The older synthetics contained detergents, and when you switched, it could cause the old oil that was keeping everything sealed up, to suddenly break up and then you end up with tiny leaks everywhere.

That said, I am pretty sure those days are over. If someone could confirm this, I would appreciate it. I don't think the full synthetics contain those detergents anymore and should be safe. OTOH, at this point, I am not sure how much difference a full synthetic would make if it had dino oil in it all those miles.
The main thing i heard about Synthetic oil is that if you have a leak, using synthetic is going to show it more than conventional oil would, since it flows differently. but as far as whats in it is beyond me.
 

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I would use the recommended viscocity (5w-30 I believe for your car).

Castolr GTX, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum all will be pefectly fine to use. Definitely use a quality filter (WIX, Motorcraft, Amsoil). As long as you change it every 3k (I only recommend this because of how many miles you have your car...or a younger engine every 5k should be fine) and you will be fine.
 

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im at 186k, i started using royal purple at 175k and every time i change(3k) i can deff. feel a fresh improvement..something i never felt with the rest of the oils out there...RP oil filter is the best
 

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Many years ago, going from dino oil to full syn on an older motor was a no-no. The old engines can develop very tiny leaks etc and the dino oil is actually creating a seal. The older synthetics contained detergents, and when you switched, it could cause the old oil that was keeping everything sealed up, to suddenly break up and then you end up with tiny leaks everywhere.

That said, I am pretty sure those days are over. If someone could confirm this, I would appreciate it. I don't think the full synthetics contain those detergents anymore and should be safe. OTOH, at this point, I am not sure how much difference a full synthetic would make if it had dino oil in it all those miles.
I'm not sure what the previous owners used, but i've used various synthetics or synthetic blend for 3 years now and have had no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
im at 186k, i started using royal purple at 175k and every time i change(3k) i can deff. feel a fresh improvement..something i never felt with the rest of the oils out there...RP oil filter is the best
Ive always wanted to use Royal Purple but i never really heard much about it so i decided to just forget about it. but is it pretty good? does it cause any kind of problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would use the recommended viscocity (5w-30 I believe for your car).

Castolr GTX, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum all will be pefectly fine to use. Definitely use a quality filter (WIX, Motorcraft, Amsoil). As long as you change it every 3k (I only recommend this because of how many miles you have your car...or a younger engine every 5k should be fine) and you will be fine.
Thanks, what about a K&n filter? a couple people mentioned them so far
 

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Thanks, what about a K&n filter? a couple people mentioned them so far
They're more expensive, but in some independent testing that i'd seen online, the K&N had great filtration and flowed more oil through it. It also has an anti-drainback valve, so on cold starts, the car isn't starved of oil. I've used the K&N on the Stang and SC (exact same oil filter...HP-4009, I believe?) and the results have been stellar.....they've survived the torture test in my case of being started in -40 weather, with the engine starting and performing well. After 5-8 thousand kms, the oil is darker, but still is in great shape.
 

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Modern full synthetic oils don't need to be changed less than 5k miles. Most can go much, much longer than that.
 

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Thanks, what about a K&n filter? a couple people mentioned them so far
I remember seeing multiple tests done several years ago comparing several top brands including K&N, AC delco, Fram etc.

Brands like K&N don't offer anything to justify the price. Fram was absolute garbage, and AC Delco was actually very good none of the high performance filters that cost much, much more, performed any better.

This goes back to what I always say about oil changes. Don't over think it. Get reputable brands and you will be good to go. Those high performance oils and filters that cost an arm and a leg aren't extending the life of your motor, but they are emptying your pockets in a very efficient manner.
 

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I remember seeing multiple tests done several years ago comparing several top brands including K&N, AC delco, Fram etc.

Brands like K&N don't offer anything to justify the price. Fram was absolute garbage, and AC Delco was actually very good none of the high performance filters that cost much, much more, performed any better.

This goes back to what I always say about oil changes. Don't over think it. Get reputable brands and you will be good to go. Those high performance oils and filters that cost an arm and a leg aren't extending the life of your motor, but they are emptying your pockets in a very efficient manner.
It depends on what one is after. If one is just after effective filtration, yes, the K&N costs way more than one needs. And with motor oils, it also depends on what one is after. Regular oil is fine, but many people use a synthetic because of the superior anti-friction qualities, coupled with the added benefit of reduced drag on the engine due to a thinner oil.

But for me, the anti-drainback valve and the construction of the K&N--plus the fact that it flows more oil effectively through the engine is good-- because it reduces parasitic drag on the engine (oil pump doesn't have to work as hard) and those small things add up. It's the same reason why I use synthetic oils over regular ones--and better quality ones. Usually the generic in house synthetic is perfectly adequate, but the extra money spent is usually for the piece of mind in my case.

Oil changes and filtration are something that are comparatively cheap in the long run of owning a car, if you're maintaining it, as opposed to having engine problems (worn bearings, etc) from improper maintenance.

I'm not sure what other people's cylinder head temperatures reach, but mine are usually at about 175-185 degrees in everyday driving. The less strain that you have on your engine, the less heat is generated within it and the added benefits of oil creating less friction become apparent. Right now, i'm having troubles properly putting my power to the pavement with 315's on the back of my car while running stock heads/ cams. These little things add up to a pretty good build.
 
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