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Want to lower my 2000 GT about 1" front and rear. Car is street use, don't want too harsh ride. Also, what special tools and how much time does it take to replace the springs, can it be done with jack stands or is a lift required?
 

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It's simple enough to do on jackstands. You don't need any special tools, but you may need an impact wrench to get the nuts off the top of the struts.

When considering springs, also realize that many aftermarket performance springs aren't going to work well with your stock shocks and struts. Especially if you've got a few miles on them and they're about worn out.

Edit: Some people will tell you to get a spring compressor. I tried that for about 10 seconds and it seemed more dangerous than NOT using it.
 

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Ford B springs. I just bought these and they're amazing. No need for CC plates, so less money spent. Just by the springs and polyurethane bushings. If you have a lot of miles you might want to replace the shocks and struts as well, bilstein being the best or you can go with some tokico blues. The B springs are a progressive spring so they won't be all bumpy and harsh.

It can be done with jack stands in your garage. You'll need a torque wrench to torque bolts back to spec. Also a crow or pry bar. I would definitely recommend that you go to Autozone and rent their spring compressor kit! For me it's a must for SAFETY reasons! Umm my car was my first spring install and I've never done anything more than a full exhaust set up before this.

It takes some time if you've never done it before. In about 4 hours I think I only got the front springs in.

There's great step by step threads here on AFM and steps also on american muscle .com

BE SAFE!!!!!!!!!! Tension in the springs is dangerous!!!!!!!
 

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Ford B springs. I just bought these and they're amazing. No need for CC plates, so less money spent. Just by the springs and polyurethane bushings. If you have a lot of miles you might want to replace the shocks and struts as well, bilstein being the best or you can go with some tokico blues. The B springs are a progressive spring so they won't be all bumpy and harsh.

It can be done with jack stands in your garage. You'll need a torque wrench to torque bolts back to spec. Also a crow or pry bar. I would definitely recommend that you go to Autozone and rent their spring compressor kit! For me it's a must for SAFETY reasons! Umm my car was my first spring install and I've never done anything more than a full exhaust set up before this.

It takes some time if you've never done it before. In about 4 hours I think I only got the front springs in.

There's great step by step threads here on AFM and steps also on american muscle .com

BE SAFE!!!!!!!!!! Tension in the springs is dangerous!!!!!!!
WRONG!!! That thing is a piece of sh!t It's more likely that the spring compressor will slip apart and knock your teeth out IMO.

You can easily drop the control arms with a jack and relieve all the pressure off the spring. Then just step down on it slightly and the spring will pop right out with a pry bar.

Tension in springs is dangerous, but there is zero need for a spring compressor if you pay attention and don't do anything stupid.
 

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I didn't use a spring compressor when removing my stock springs and replacing them with the Mach 1 springs.... no problems. Just put the jack under the A-arm and lower it slowly.
 

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Want to lower my 2000 GT about 1" front and rear. Car is street use, don't want too harsh ride. Also, what special tools and how much time does it take to replace the springs, can it be done with jack stands or is a lift required?
These springs lower the car about an inch and a half, which is probably the perfect balance between better handling without a harsh ride. 1979-2004 Ford Mustang V8 UPR Pro Series Lowering Springs by Eibach at UPR Products - Lifetime Warranty!

You can lower your car with basic hand tools. I never use spring compressors. It takes me about an hour and a half on jack stands with hand tools, but I've lowered dozens of Mustangs.

If you've never done it before, I recommend having someone with you that has so they can help you out. Better to be safe than sorry.
 

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I didn't use a spring compressor when removing my stock springs and replacing them with the Mach 1 springs.... no problems. Just put the jack under the A-arm and lower it slowly.
I did it in 2 hours with just a jack, two jack stands, and a rachet and socket. No spring compressor bull. And I had no help. DIY
 

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BTW, I went with Ford C-Springs. Don't really know the difference between b and c, but there awesome and of course made by FORD, but lower the car good but not slammed like it was before i installed them. Smooth ride for a mustang, not cadillac or MB smooth, but american muscle smooth still, compared to stock
 

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Well like I said it was my first spring install and I went with the spring compressor because I felt it was safer, and EVERYTHING turned out well and went perfectly. You do lower the control arm of course to release tension, I wasn't exactly giving him steps in my other post lol. I lowered the control arm and released some tension, than put the spring compressors on and put them on tight with an impact gun, than slowly released tension by lowering the control arm all the way to where the spring can just be popped out with a pry bar. This worked for me, and I'd gladly use them again even though they're not really required ha.

and the tech article on american muscle doesn't use a spring compressor either, they use a chain instead hahaha.
 

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BTW, I went with Ford C-Springs. Don't really know the difference between b and c, but there awesome and of course made by FORD, but lower the car good but not slammed like it was before i installed them. Smooth ride for a mustang, not cadillac or MB smooth, but american muscle smooth still, compared to stock
B are progressive spring rates and C's are specific rate. How much did you're car drop? Mine dropped more than the advertised height! No idea way, but my car bottoms out (tires hit fender well) with the stock 59k mile shocks/struts. Might be that, or a novice spring installer ahaha.
 

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Yeah. No worries, bro. We know what you mean.
I personally was more worried about the spring compressor than going at it without the damn thing.

Luckily, it's even easier to get aftermarket, short springs out.
 

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I don't know how much it lowered it since i replaced slammed out springs for them. Anyways I was lookin at pictures of what and how much it should have lowered from stock, and it looks like it lowered them to spec. They look good and I kept the front iso's on as well and it still has that aggressive stance leanin down.
 

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B are progressive spring rates and C's are specific rate. How much did you're car drop? Mine dropped more than the advertised height! No idea way, but my car bottoms out (tires hit fender well) with the stock 59k mile shocks/struts. Might be that, or a novice spring installer ahaha.
Believe me when I say, my car was slammed. 3-3 1/2 inches. I had to change them out. When putting them in your just supposed to put them back in the way you got them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't know how much it lowered it since i replaced slammed out springs for them. Anyways I was lookin at pictures of what and how much it should have lowered from stock, and it looks like it lowered them to spec. They look good and I kept the front iso's on as well and it still has that aggressive stance leanin down.
I want the same stance (front lower than back), currently my car looks like the front end is higher than the rear, not good. I look at my wife 06 Civic EX and it way lower than my car, and looks more aggressive in regard to stance, this just isn't right
 

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C springs are a lot stiffer than B springs. B springs you could use with stock struts/shocks (if they're not blown out by now) and still have a smooth ride. C springs NEED stiffer struts and shocks.

The UPR springs I listed above are closer to the C springs, and they have a lifetime guarantee. :bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #17
C springs are a lot stiffer than B springs. B springs you could use with stock struts/shocks (if they're not blown out by now) and still have a smooth ride. C springs NEED stiffer struts and shocks.

The UPR springs I listed above are closer to the C springs, and they have a lifetime guarantee. :bigthumbsup
Do the UPR springs require any special install parts? I have about 75,000 on my car and it bottoms out sometimes on dips at high speeds, I will replace springs and all shocks/struts.
I don't want to bottom out, going to get widest rear wheels, I think 10.5" if going with 17" wheels?
 

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Do the UPR springs require any special install parts? I have about 75,000 on my car and it bottoms out sometimes on dips at high speeds, I will replace springs and all shocks/struts.
I don't want to bottom out, going to get widest rear wheels, I think 10.5" if going with 17" wheels?
UPR Pro Series springs are basically Eibach Pro Kit... Anyway, they don't require any special install parts. Shocks & struts are definitely recommended, and they'll keep the car from bottoming out like you mentioned. Also, CC plates will allow you to adjust the camber if you're very concerned about wear on the inside of the front tires. The Pro Series springs don't give you THAT much negative camber, so I won't say they're NEEDED, but the CC plates do make the steering quite a bit more sharp and accurate feeling. :bigthumbsup

If your car has factory control arms in the rear, you'll want to upgrade those as well. Basically on an 11 year old car, you'll want to upgrade all of the suspension bushings, as time and money allow. Also, subframe connectors tight the car up A LOT, and they are inexpensive. Really though, I'm talking about general maintenance on an 11 year old car here. None of these parts are absolutely mandatory, but they do make a big difference!

Springs: 1979-2004 Ford Mustang V8 UPR Pro Series Lowering Springs by Eibach at UPR Products - Lifetime Warranty!

CC plates: 94-04 Mustang Billet Shark Caster Camber Plates

control arms: 99-04 Mustang Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arm Suspension Kit

subframe connectors: 99-04 Mustang Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arm Suspension Kit

^^all of our parts have a lifetime guarantee.
 

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Excellent advice from Sharad.

I highly recommend that you have a good set of subframe connectors welded in before you make any other mods - you will be amazed at how much better the car will feel. I would also add polyurethane steering rack bushings (non-offset) to the list.
 
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