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Discussion Starter #1
I had my Cobra inspected today just as a "getting somewhat close to rainy season" thing.

Turns out I need my front right wheel bearing replaced.
They quoted me $125 for the "Front Hub Assembly" and then $100 for labor after tax it comes out to a little over $230. I feel like this is steep for one hub replacement?

What do you guys think?

And how hard of a job would it be for my to do in my friends driveway with standard hand tools?
 

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Assuming we are talking about a dealer here.....$125 for parts...fine, $100 labor...a little high but not bad really....yes you can do it in the driveway......including washing your hands...give it 1 hour....
 

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That labor amount sounds fair. How much do you think you should pay?

Also, did they fail it for inspection and if so are they failing it because it's noisey or because it has excessive play?


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Yeah sounds about right. Maybe steep for the parts, but not by much.

How to replace hub:

-Take off wheel
-Take off caliper
-Take off disk
-Take off grease cap
-Break hub nut free
-Slide old hub off
-Slide new hub on
-Hurt your arms torquing it down
-Put everything back on.

I don't know what the SN95 front hub nut torque spec is, but for an S197 it's 251lb/ft, so you'll need a substantial torque wrench to do the job correctly

Edit: saw the year of your car. My post may be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Assuming we are talking about a dealer here.....$125 for parts...fine, $100 labor...a little high but not bad really....yes you can do it in the driveway......including washing your hands...give it 1 hour....
not dealership. Wheel works. I'll look at LMS and AM for their prices

That labor amount sounds fair. How much do you think you should pay?

Also, are they failing it because it's noisey or because it has excessive play?


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I figured It'd be about 150 or so per wheel.
They didn't say, how ever I have been having a squeaking sound from my right side for awhile. Chirps while moving but as soon as I put some pressure on the breaks it goes away. I mentioned this to them and they called me about an hour later and said my front right wheel bearing is going. I actually have another thread on here about the squeaking. I thought originally it was my right rear break but it didn't go away when I pulled my e-brake which now makes sense if it's the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah sounds about right. Maybe steep for the parts, but not by much.

How to replace hub:

-Take off wheel
-Take off caliper
-Take off disk
-Take off grease cap
-Break hub nut free
-Slide old hub off
-Slide new hub on
-Hurt your arms torquing it down
-Put everything back on.

I don't know what the SN95 front hub nut torque spec is, but for an S197 it's 251lb/ft, so you'll need a substantial torque wrench to do the job correctly

Edit: saw the year of your car. My post may be wrong.
Thats it? Sounds pretty easy. I'll see if my Chilton has anything about changing the hubs in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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It's an easy job, very easy. It's pretty straight forward as csamsh said. You'll need a new hub nut, it's a torque-to-yield nut, meaning one-time use only. IIRC it's 32mm nut so make sure you have a socket to fit ( you should double check the size though, I forget things in my advanced stage of senility). A torque wrench to read 258lb/ft cause that's where you'll be dropping a gonad. I've changed both side in under an hour.
 

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As everyone else has said, it is a straight forward job. To further iterate everyone, $125 for the part is a bit steep. Maybe they have a markup on it, but that cost probably includes the retaining nut and a new dust cap as well. You could always bring your own to them (sometimes though this means they won't warranty their work).

If you want to do it yourself, I would call a local auto parts store. They'll be able to set you up right away, no waiting on shipping (well, maybe next day), and the cost will probably be the same, as it isn't really a specialized part. Or, rockauto.com
 

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not dealership. Wheel works. I'll look at LMS and AM for their prices

I figured It'd be about 150 or so per wheel.
They didn't say, how ever I have been having a squeaking sound from my right side for awhile. Chirps while moving but as soon as I put some pressure on the breaks it goes away. I mentioned this to them and they called me about an hour later and said my front right wheel bearing is going. I actually have another thread on here about the squeaking. I thought originally it was my right rear break but it didn't go away when I pulled my e-brake which now makes sense if it's the front.
I looked it up in the Chilton manual and it pays .7 times the shops labor rate to install. This does not include diagnosis. I know you said there's another thread for the squeak but, it sounds more like a slightly warped rotor pushing against brake pads that are sticking and not returning properly. Just my two cents and Internet diag.




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Discussion Starter #13
I looked it up in the Chilton manual and it pays .7 times the shops labor rate to install. This does not include diagnosis. I know you said there's another thread for the squeak but, it sounds more like a slightly warped rotor pushing against brake pads that are sticking and not returning properly. Just my two cents and Internet diag.




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That's what I thought too but I've had my brakes inspected twice by two different shops and they Both said my brakes were fine. So it makes me wonder.

Also, should I replace both sides or is it one of those "if it's not broke don't fix it" items?

Thanks all for your input. I appreciate it.
 

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I'd only replace the side that's a concern. As far as your noise is concerned, the wheel bearing either has play or it doesn't. It'll be interesting to see if your brake concern is fixed after this repair. Hope all ends up well.


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Discussion Starter #15
I'd only replace the side that's a concern. As far as your noise is concerned, the wheel bearing either has play or it doesn't. It'll be interesting to see if your brake concern is fixed after this repair. Hope all ends up well.


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Thanks me too. It'd be nice if it was the bearing making the noise but my luck they aren't related at all. If it doesn't cure the sound I think I'll be doing my brakes with some slotted rotors and new pads and see if that'll fix it. My ABS light is also on so I need to start narrowing down that cause.
 

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If you weren't so far away I'd have you stop by for a free diag :0)
Do you know what ABS code is stored? If its a right front speed sensor that might make some sense.


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If you weren't so far away I'd have you stop by for a free diag :0)
Do you know what ABS code is stored? If its a right front speed sensor that might make some sense.


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No I don't. I've used my mechanics fancy scanner and every time it says it can't connect. I'm thinking it's the brain.
 

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Slide old hub off
This is the part of csm's "easy instructions" that might not be so easy, that part can take hours. Granted i've only ever done it on trucks, one time that was on a diesel ram that must have been put on by thors hammer, but still.

If you have issues with it take a strong extension or socket, set it on the back of your hub (closest to your car) in such a way that it's pushing on the hub not the steering knuckle or whatever (maybe screw a bolt in a few turns put the socket on that), then turn your wheel until your power steering pushes the hub off for you using that extension by wedging the extension in between hub and the control arms/whatever solid things behind it.

Just a cool trick I was taught that worked very well. But chances are on a mustang on non-drive wheels that probably doesn't have a rust issue, it'll come off with a few taps of a hammer.

While you're at autozone grabbing your torque wrench and socket rental, rent a dial indicator and runout kit, and check your runout to see about that squeak. Also clean off all your brake dust and such that can make surprisingly loud squeaking.

A wheel bearing usually grinds or cluncks or makes a rubbing sound, not a squeak. If i were you I'd replace both wheel bearings/hubs but it probably isn't necessary.

Also maybe somebody else knows, is it necessary to purchase the whole hub instead of just a wheel bearing? Is it only necessary because of the effort required to press out the wheel bearing or is pressing it out simply not an option?
 
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