Ford Mustang Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well alot has changed sence last time I sold my hatch and bought a 91 notch I have gt 40p heads gt40 upper and lower flowmaster short tube headers 355 gears just to it to the track last night ran 14.2 @97 couldn't get off the line I think it one wheel peeled what's a good fix rear end? Tires? The tires I have r brand new but not a dr
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,055 Posts
Rear t lok could be worn out. Upper n lower control arms and a good set of DR's will help. Did you feather the clutch and gas pedal when taking off or just floored it?
 

· Banned
Joined
·
12,365 Posts
new upper and lower rear control arms make a big difference....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Ok so you have a 5.0 done up, and you think you only have 1 wheel spinning on take off? As far as i know you should have limited posi which both tires should be grabbing and if theres not good traction then they both spin together under a high torque load. Tires help but if the engine is pushing too much HP for stock rears the tires are not any good. you need a good traction set up, bars maybe better rear gears, HP doesnt mean a thing if you cant plant it to the ground. Im guessing you have a non posi rear which would explain why you only have the one wheel spinning.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
these cars NEVER came w/ a non-posi. the posi clutches can wear out. If you cant afford an after market setup you can have the factory 1 w/ new clutches & they will pack it w/ an extra 1 on request. that 1 extra friction packed in the dif makes a huge posi difference. Last but definately not least, if your goin to the track you need @ least some good drag radials, not no crappy nittos.:bigthumbsup
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,140 Posts
these cars NEVER came w/ a non-posi. the posi clutches can wear out. If you cant afford an after market setup you can have the factory 1 w/ new clutches & they will pack it w/ an extra 1 on request. that 1 extra friction packed in the dif makes a huge posi difference. Last but definately not least, if your goin to the track you need @ least some good drag radials, not no crappy nittos.:bigthumbsup
+1 on what fastford said and what were your 60' times?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
not to hijack the thread but what would be a fairly decent set of control arms and sub frame connectors?

Latemodelrestoration has the SVE arms for like $130 i think? Would those be enough for a car that doesn't make over 400rwhp?

And also a decent pair of sub frame connectors?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,323 Posts
nitto drag radials are a decent street tire at best..they suck at the track IMO

if you're going to be rebuilding the track lock and running drag radials at a track on a regular basis, its a REALLY good idea to upgrade to 31 spline axles and a 31 spline differential of some type at this time..

the stock axles are weak pieces of sht..they're the first thing to break..especially with drag radials..they hit HARD,once you have the suspension working..especially with a stick car
 

· Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
It all has to work together, strange 10 way struts are awesome! Weight transfer makes you win or spin!P.S. Spinning is losing no matter how you lok @ it, NO EXCUSES.:bigthumbsup
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,473 Posts
Well alot has changed sence last time I sold my hatch and bought a 91 notch I have gt 40p heads gt40 upper and lower flowmaster short tube headers 355 gears just to it to the track last night ran 14.2 @97 couldn't get off the line I think it one wheel peeled what's a good fix rear end? Tires? The tires I have r brand new but not a dr
It sounds like you need a new or rebuilt differential. But the 3.55 gear is not ideal for a drag car. I'd use at least 3.73s, if not a 4.10. Of course, if you add some sticky tires, you'll want to upgrade to at least 31-spline axles. All things considered, I'd recommend you save up and buy a complete 8.8 from Strange Engineering You can install it very easily, and then sell your existing 8.8.

275/50-15 M/T DRs are a good street/strip tire (with no precipitation) and of course, suspension from UPR Products | Mustang Parts & Performance | Mustang Suspension | Mustang Billet | Mustang Cold Air Intakes | Mustang Exhaust is always a good choice! :bigthumbsup


not to hijack the thread but what would be a fairly decent set of control arms and sub frame connectors?

Latemodelrestoration has the SVE arms for like $130 i think? Would those be enough for a car that doesn't make over 400rwhp?

And also a decent pair of sub frame connectors?
Good, inexpensive control arms: 79-98 Mustang Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arm Suspension Kit

Good sub frame connectors (you don't wanna cheap out here): 79-04 Mustang Full Length Subframe Connectors


Thanks guys my 60ft time was 2.2 im installing new upper and lower arms tonight what do u guys like for dr tires netto 555 not that good?
:nono:
Nitto NT05Rs are good, NT555Rs, not so much.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,140 Posts
With good suspension and sticky tires you should be able to drop your times to 1.80's at least and with some practice who knows but that translates into to some nice time improvements.

And Sharad has you on the right track.:bigthumbsup (Usually LOL:laugh::laugh:)
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top