Which Mod First & What Choice?

Best bang for the buck as far as adding HP is probably going to be a CAI and a hand held tuner. As for which one, man, just get the one that jingles your bells the most. Everyone is going to have their own opinion about which one is best and it will probably be the one that they own. Personally, I went with a hybrid setup on recommendation of a very well known performance center and I couldn't be happier with it.

As for the exhaust delimma you are having, once again, go with whichever one you like. Axle back setups produce MINIMAL gains on the S197 cars. So basically ignore ANY claims by manufacturers of gains and just get what you think sounds best to you. Yes you can mix brands on the components. I.E. one brand on axle back, one brand on mid pipe, and one brand on headers. Personally, when it comes to the mids and headers, I would stick with a like brand just to avoid any unforeseen issue of adapting them together, but that's just me.

Computer flashing is going to be an every step of the way thing. You add a CAI, you flash. You change gears, you flash. You add IMRC delete plates, you flash. You do major exhaust changes, you should get your butt to a dyno and check for a lean condition...and probably flash. I think you get the point.

As for the hand held tuner. I personally own a Diablo Predator. BUT... since you have an automatic tranny, I would probably recommend an XCAL-II tuner. It has superior automatic shift adjustment abilities ( at the moment ).

Agree with the previous mostly. CAI HP gains are with Flash tunes, so what does that tell you. You can buy a direct-fit K&N filter for the factory box, flash tune for 87, 92, etc., and your gain is 75% there, w/out the new CAI cost. But I do like the look of my C&L, and I'm getting the Ford Racing piece when it comes out for the additional few HP. The exhaust is a must. I've used Flowmasters and liked them fine. But on this car I wanted an all stainless system, so it came down to the Magnaflows or the MRT Aero Turbos. I went with the MRT axle-backs and have never been happier. What a great sound! Finally, the rear gears MUST be changed to 4.10's. It totally transforms the car into the beast that you paid for. I understand why Ford uses 3.55's, but don't waste any time finding a shop that will swap out the gears. Quit talking about it, just do it! And unless you're made of money, and want to first try 3.77's, then 3.90's, before realizing that the 4.10 is the perfect ratio for this car. Don't worry about gas use; they sell gas everywhere!

1. Tuner (SCT)
2. CAI (Tunable Inductions)
3. Headers (Kooks)
4. Pulleys (Steeda)
5. CMDP (Steeda or home made)
6. LW Flywheel (RPS)

I would combine 1 and 2, save for 3 or jump 3 for 4 if money is an issue.

Not to mention handling (FRPP Kit), looks (FRPP Kit again, tint, wheels, rubber, mufflers, etc.), operations (Shrot-Throw (Steeda), and sound (up to you, Kooks Headersd will do the trick with stock muffs though... :happyhapp )

Now go to www.modulardepot.com use the specials for the Tunable Inductions CAI with SCT tuner and custom MD (Ken!) tunes. If you have the dough spring for the special on the Kooks Headers at the same time, there is an additional discount for AFM members taken of the sale price! And you'll be +300 at the wheels! And oh so happy with drivability and the sound, oh the sound!!

PS. I hope Steeda is not claiming 30 RWHP with CAI and tune...??

Mr. Mustang 06 said:

Stupid question but what is CDMP? Can I get the axlebacks first so that I can get the sound, then the CAI, what website do they sell the C&L intake because I haven't seen it and can I do my mods before the tuner so that I only have to do it once? Or is it manditory that I get the CAI first?

Click to expand...

There is no stupid questions on here... if we don't know we ask... that's why most of us are here...

The CMDP's are short for Charge Motion Delete plates which... delete your charge motion plates, or intake runners as they were called previous years. The intake runners are butterfly valves between you manifold and heads that react to throttle position, they're partially open at very low power settings, lets say under 2000 RPM, other than that they're fully open. They are (as many other things) mostly for emissions (idling and MPG mostly) but also for low end TQ.

The idea of removing them is to leave a wide gaping hole letting air through quicker, also removing any restriction and turbulence the valves and actuators might cause in there... Below is a picture of the runners and then the delete plates (NOS ready version). You'll see the stock ones in the first pic has the valves, the bars infront are the actuators connected to your thorottle control. Below is the Steeda replacements, all open and smooth... You can also make your own from yours (if you can stand the down time) or from a set of take-outs. You would just empty them, fill the holes, make them all smooth, and voila, you saved 320 bucks...

Yes you can get the axlebacks first, and that would be sound/looks only. No power gain, and no tune needed.

http://www.cnlperformance.com/2005GT.html they are often less from retailers....

You wanna get the tuner first, most get the tuner and a CAI first. Most CAI's you CANNOT safely use witout a tuner! Exhaust mods are exluded as they make a very small differance in you air/fuel ratio. You will get the most benefits from a tuner! CAI second most... And again for the exhaust it doesn't matter, tune or not...