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Discussion Starter #1
How much does a wideband air-fuel ratio sensor cost to buy+install if you do it at a garage/shop?
 

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I think I paid right around $375 for my kit and it took about 90 minutes to install because the exhaust has to be tapped and a bung welded in for the new sensor to go in. Out of curiosity, why are you considering an A/F ratio meter?
 

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One important info about wide band sensors is their life, they dont last long, so if you get one use it only while you tune the car, then remove it and replace with a regular O2 or a plug.

I got the UEGO 1000 which includes the wideband sensor, got it for about the same price as BlueStreak.

The O2 sensor alone, costs around $80.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BlueStreak03 said:
I think I paid right around $375 for my kit and it took about 90 minutes to install because the exhaust has to be tapped and a bung welded in for the new sensor to go in. Out of curiosity, why are you considering an A/F ratio meter?
Cuz I am getting a CAI next spring, and I thought it might be good to make sure the tune i got wasnt running to lean or rich. But I am probably going to get it done at Evo so I probably don't need to worry. 375 is a bit more than I thought it would be. If they don't last long, I think I might just forget it.
 

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Although nice to have, they're really not necessary on a N/A car. If you start forcing air, it's a must.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I figured that. If the thing was under 100 bucks I woulda considered it, but if it's not necessary right now...I'll pass. Thanks.
 

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GTRaptor said:
One important info about wide band sensors is their life, they dont last long, so if you get one use it only while you tune the car, then remove it and replace with a regular O2 or a plug.

I got the UEGO 1000 which includes the wideband sensor, got it for about the same price as BlueStreak.

The O2 sensor alone, costs around $80.
Does the wideband have to go in front of the cats or can it go in the rear O2 bung? I guess in my case (with gutted cats), it probably wouldn't really matter.
 

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If you have working cats, it has to be upstream. If they're gutted, you might be OK downstream.
 

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Yeah there's no need for a wideband unless you've done serious mods to heads, cams and intake or have a power adder. Other than that, I would just get it dyno'd with a wideband in place just to check it. No need to go drop $450 for the unit and install labor.
 

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GTRaptor said:
One important info about wide band sensors is their life, they dont last long, so if you get one use it only while you tune the car, then remove it and replace with a regular O2 or a plug.
I have not seen this to be the case with the ones I have or the guys I run with....


I have two AEM's. ( i have two other s/c cars and I only in them one of them and my '06 GT.

Bosch brand is what I have in two of mine. Do you have a story to tell about this? I had not heard this before.
 

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I have replaced it twice (have it on one bank only), both times it lasted probably a couple thousand miles.

I noticed this when i had the car dynoed, the dyno shop lambda showed a different A/F than my UEGO unit, about 3 points richer. So the sensor was still working but showed it was running LEAN, while the dyno lambda showed it was OK.

There are many causes to premature sensor failure, high exhaust temps, leaded gas, rich mixture, thermal shock (like tons of water coming into contact with the exhaust).

In theory they can last as much as 80k miles, but in my case i have probably fouled them because one of the above reasons, most probably running rich (first sensor), thermal shock or high exhaust temperatures (625 RWHP).

I have seen this happen to others, so i only extern that it is better to only have them in place for tuning or maybe while racing to extend their life.
 

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Running a sensor in the exhaust stream without having it powered will shorten it's life as will leaded fuel or installing it too close to a turbo as it is sensitive to heat.

My belief is that a wide band setup is MANDATORY for an engine with a power adder. You might get a custom tune, but no engine's components do not degrade with time or use.

Blow just ONE headgasket or worse and you'll gladly pay the tariff for the protection a wide band setup offers.:hihi:
 

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Running a power adder, you're lucky if a blown headgasket is ALL you break when something goes wrong. Lose a fuel pump or get a clogged injector and kiss at least one piston goodbye, maybe more. Let it get too hot and cracked heads will occur in a moment.
 
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