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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone circle the wire that would splice with the car's parking wire? I want to control the foglights with the existing mustang switch and want them to come on automatically with the parking light.

I want to draw power from the battery, not the parking wire. And I do not want to use the switch that came with the harness.

Fingers crossed that it's the white wire coming out of the relay...

Thanks!
 

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Fog lights on with parking lights

Help me to understand the theory behind wiring the fog lights activating automatically with the parking lights please.
Fog lights are to provide illumination during heavy fog, rain or snow that avoids the blinding glare from the headlights reflecting back from the above weather. Try driving with your high beams on during such weather and you'll (not) "see" what I mean.
So you want to drive with your parking lights on, along with your fog lights?
To do that you want to use the parking lights as a switch to activate the fog lights. Terminal 30 on the relay is the relay "switch". So run a hot wire from the parking light circuit to terminal 30 on the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't even want fog lights, but have to fill two holes on my saleen bumper. These 3" round fog lights are nothing special and provide no extra illumination. Just for show and to fill 2 holes.

The whole point of all this was because it is too diffcult/don't have the time to get the aftermarket switch/wires inside the vehicle and I don't want to do any cutting of grommets to get inside the vehicle.

So which wire is terminal 30 based on that diagram?
 

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Fog lights

That would be the white wire.
The relay has each terminal numbered on the bottom of the relay.
I understand now what you are doing.
To make this easier, You could simply wire the fog lights direct from the park wire on the parking lights.
So ground each fog light, determine which wire on the parking lights are for the park circuit, (otherwise if you use the turn circuit the fog lights will "blink").
I do not believe the additional current to the fog lights will overload the circuit. But if you want, you could put one in-line 5 amp fuse near each fog light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea. I was thinking the same thing but didn't want to take a chance blowing a fuse, especially at night.

White wire. That said, it is safe to assume I can throw away the switch, red and black wire coming out of the switch?
 

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Relay

OK, a relay is a electronic switch that switches on/off another switch that controls another circuit (Fog lights).
It's like using a fire cracker to ignite a stick of dynamite.
The white wire, if powered by your park lights, will, when the park lights are turned on, flick the other switch in the relay and send power to the fog lights.
You are using the park lights in place of the remote switch.
The red and black wires on your remote switch simply turn the power on and off to the white wire that goes to the relay.
You do not need the remote switch and all of the wires connected to it.
Just run a wire from the hot wire on your park lights, to the terminal on the relay that the white wire is suppose to go to.
There are probably three wires on each of your park lights.
1- Turn signal light
2- Park light
3- Ground
The turn signal lights are independent wires to the signal lever.
Both park lights are connected to the same wire so you don't need to run a seperate relay feed white wire to each of your park lights. Just use the most convient tap in location on one of the park lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I appreciate you. I could use your help or anyone else asap. I'm trying to tackle and finish this this tomorrow morning. I'm really pissed off the fog light company didn't include a wiring diagram nor can I find the answers through google or youtube. Such a simply project, yet takes me hours to find the answer...

Attachment 1. This part of the harness plugs directly to the fog light. What the hell is the blue wire for?

Attachment 2+3. It seems the switch controlled each fog light, thus I have 2 relays. Now what the hell do I do? Which wires go to the parking wire. Can they be fused together and go to one parking wire? Or one relay goes to passenger parking wire and the other to driver side parking wire.
 

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Dual relays

I can not tell you by wire color what wire goes where.
I can tell you what wire to connect to what pin on the relay(s).
You need to unplug the wire plug fron the relay(s) to identify the numbers on each relay pin.
If you can do that, here's how to wire your project;
You will have one relay for each fog light....for some dumb reason.
You either have a 4 pin relay or a 5 pin relay....doesn't matter.
Pins 86 and 87 connect together inside the relay and do the same thing. More on this later.
Pin# 30 on each relay needs to connect to the battery POS.
Pin # 85 needs to connect together and go to chassis ground.
Pin # 86 wires needs to be twisted together and connect to the park light 'pos' wire. Do not cut the park wire, just tap into it.
Pin # 87 or 87A (Both connect together inside the relay) on each relay goes to one fog light. So pin 87 on one relay goes to one fog light, Pin 87 on the other relay goes to the other fog light.
The black wire on the fog lights are ground wires and need to go to chassis ground.
So now, when you turn on the park lights, juice will go to pin # 86 on both relays.
That will flick a switch inside the relay that allows juice from the battery to enter pin # 30 and connect to pin # 87 (And 87A).
Juice will then have a connection from pin #87 on each relay to go to the fog light that particular relay is connected to.
Make sure Pins # 85 are grounded good, and the fog lights are grounded.
Your fuse should be wired into the wire that goes to the battery (Pin # 30)
Let me know.
 

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So, you want to tap into the lights wiring, pick up the 12v when the lights are on, and trigger your own relay?

You're making this waaaaaaaaay too hard...you have a GT, right: why not use the foglight feature on the headlight switch (pulls out when the lights are on)....and the foglight wires in the harness behind the grill??? Or do you want the fogs to come on all the time automatically, regardless (which might not even be legal). :nono:

In stock form on a GT, you have the relay in the BEC. The stock light switch tells the SJB when to turn on the fogs, and the SJB energizes the foglight relay in the BEC. Hell they might even plug direct into your lights as-is. Worst-case you splice into the foglamp wires that are there.

If you insist on forcing the foglamps on when lights are on, you can wire up the relay inside the cabin. But if you're having this much problems with the wiring, that is not something you should tackle.


Now, if you have a v6 and are posting in the GT section, this is quite different, as only part of the wiring and circuitry for foglamps exist, and you have to hookup the rest. I had to do that.


Also, relays have 4 or 5 pins, typically numbers 85 and 86 for the energizer coil circuit, and 30 and 87 (and 87a) for the contacts. Your power from battery-to-whetever-is-to-get-power goes through the 30/87 contacts. Power and ground to control the relay go through 85 and 86.

You might think that the typical relay wiring in these Fords is that one of the coil pins (85 or 86) is grounded and power is switched on to the other when the relay is to be energized. That's simply not the case...just the opposite occurs in the factory wiring in these cars: power is on to one side of the relay coil (85 or 86), and then some control (a switch or the SJB) grounds the other side to turn the relay on. This is how all of the circuits work in these Mustangs.

Nonetheless, there is a +12 signal that comes off the light switch when the lights are on (brown wire, pin #9 I think; I use it to tell my gauges when the lights are on). This cant feed foglights, but can be used to trigger a relay.

Note that if you have an automatic, there's a large and easy-to-get-to hole in the firewall, between the brake booster and fender, with metal tape; you can poke a wire through there very easily. Inside there's some foam left of the brake pedal, with the section cut-out yet still in place. Simply remove that section and it's easy to run wires in/out of the cabin. This 'hole' is used for the clutch, so if you have a manual, this doesn't apply.
But the grommets on each side of the cabin, behind the splash shields, each have a sealed 'nipple' that can be cut or poked through and a wire or wires run through it, very easily.

Just giving you some options and additional info....there's many ways to skin this cat :bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks all for your help.

I got it. Tell me why the hardest part of all this was pulling off those fender guard rivot clips behind the wheels. So frusterating as you have to literally destroy them with pliers and replace with new ones.

Its a v6 and I posted in this section for better responses.

I realized that the blue wire was for the angel eye halo ring. Normally people would wire the halo wire directly to the parking wire and control with the stock switch, but the blue wire on the harness allows the halo ring to be powered by the harness/aftermarket switch. I took off the halo from the fog light, because halos are getting tired and ricey.

Since I had two relays, I cut the 2 signal wires going towards the aftermarket switch and connected them together and then connected them to the parking wire.

Illegal indeed, as they stay on when the highbeams go on. Such a silly law... I have to get VA safety inspection every 2 years, any ideas to pass?

1. If I disconnect and cover the foglights with covers of somekind or cover the foglight holes with that gray masking tape, will they check foglights and fail?

2. If I take off the foglights before an inspection, will they check for unattached fog light wires and fail?

3. I'm thinking taking off the fog lights, taping up the wires and concealing as best as possible, and cover the fog light holes with masking tape will suffice before an inspection.

Let me know what you would do that requires the least amount of work. And no, I don't want to wire them to the low beams...
 
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