[GCantero93]

I am running a modern radio (alpine cde-143bt) in my 66 mustang coupe. And yes of course I cut the dash. How did you go about wiring it? I'm running 2 6.5s(alpine type r) in the kick panels, 2 6x9s(alpine type r) in the package tray, a 12" subwoofer(alpine type r), a mono amp for the subwoofer(alpine mrv-m500), and a 4 channel amp(alpine mrv-f300) for the other speakers. Any pictures or advice will help a ton. Thank you.
Gus

 

[sp66stang]

the head unit gets power from the yellow 3 way connector under the dash. connect to the cig lighter for memory. then run a big enough wire from battery with fuse to amps. or two wires one for each amp with fuses. just my 2 cts.

 

[Explorer]

Careful you are not overloading your alternator. Stock alternator is only rated for 40-45 amps. It is just not made to run modern audio amps. Crutchfield has a lot of tech advise on their website.

 

[Charles Reeves]

I have a similar setup, but w/o the main speaker amp. I ran 10 gauge wires for the sub-woofer amp power and ground when I installed it, and didn't see the note in its install instructions about running a 4 gauge for the power lead. I added another 10 gauge wire for power and ground, and a 60 amp in-line fuse on both at the battery. I ran the wires down the passenger side under the sill plate. I ran the sub-woofer amp wires down the same side, and the speaker wires down the driver side. I suspect it would have been better to run the amp wires down the diver side, away from the power leads, even though they are shielded, and may move them. I just got this finished and thought I might have heard a little hum in the one time I've been able to test.

In light of my amp itself having two 30 amp fuses, Explorer is probably right about the alternator, especially with your setup of two amps.

 

[Explorer]

I'm no audiophile, but I'm sure there are some experts on here. After working with electrical systems my whole life, I had to show my son what he was dealing with. I have a clamp-on ammeter with a 40 amp and 400 amp DC ranges. He has a more modern car with a 110 amp alternator and 1 15" woofer. When it's thumping, it will increase the draw on his alternator by an extra 30-40 amps over the normal draw at lower levels. Here is a link to Crutchfield tech. Upgrading a car's electrical system: do you need the big 3? Hit the wire size chart at bottom of page for more info. This may help some beginners.

 

[havoc65]

When I installed my Kenwood deck I ran a fused 10AWG wire into to cabin and hooked it to a relay. I used the power wire to the heater controls as my ignition on off for the relay. I wired my deck and all other accessories to that relay, by passing the original wiring altogether. For my amps I ran a fused 4AWG wire to the trunk. As others stated this was too much for the stock alternator and I ended up doing a 3G retrofit off a 95 Mustang GT. Works great.

 

[66 restomod]

Here is my system with information:
Stereo

Ron

 

[CBowman]

I just put an alpine 153bt in my '66 !
it really is easy, just time consuming..

Red wire goes to accessory power (cig lighter works best)
yellow wire goes to constant power (to keep presets on the radio), so just get something to test the power, leave the key in the off position, and then test for a power source!
Black wire is of course ground wire (make sure to get a really good ground or you lose presets and bumps can cause it to turn off and on while driving)

I believe this is the order for wires
white and white with black is front left (drivers side)
Green and green with black are rear left
Purple and purple with black are rear right
Grey and grey and black are front right

Then of course you have the sub wire you run and antenna and amp (which i believe the amp wire should be blue) and all of that lovely stuff you can add.

If you have more questions feel free to ask!