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Wiring XM Roady 2

1603 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  tampa
How do you hardwire this? I know it is 12V to 6V. I looked at some transformers which were the size of an oreos package and costs 130.00? All you people who have installed this in their cars. How did you hardwire? For example, I am doing the exact installation as Martimus.
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okay,I hardwired mine for installation by the map lights up top. I tapped into a 12volt supply to the radio I found using a wiring diagram from this site. This lets the Roady stay on with the accessory delay. Then I found a suitable ground. Now, the 12v to 6v conversion......
Take the cigarette lighter power supply that comes with the roady and unscrew the ring on the plug end. You can then carefully pry the casing apart. Take a look at the circuit board inside. The contact that hits the center pin on the plug is the 12+ connection. The wing contacts on either side are grounds. Using handy soldering iron, I removed the contact pieces from the circuit board and soldered on the ends of my 12+ and ground supply wires. I ran the supply wires into the original housing and snapped it all back together. The transformer is hidden inside the Apillar interior trim, and the factory connection for the Roady sticks out from under the map light console.

If you aren't big on soldering, buy an aftermarket cigarette lighter socket and crimp wire it to power and ground, then plug in the supplied Xformer.

If I had a digital camera, I'd take pics, but alas, I spent all my $ on car parts. If you have questions, shoot...
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Fitch... UltraClyde gave you one great way of installing the Roady2... actually the same way I installed mine. I purchased an after-market cigarette lighter assembly from the local auto parts store, mounted it under the dash, and wired it into an open switched location in the fuse box. I then soldered a long extension into the stock Roady2 DC adapter since mounting the radio on front of the convenience lights console requires an awful long wiring run, longer than is possible with the stock DC adapter. Once it was tested I ran the wire to the XM received and plugged the DC adapter into the under-dash cigarette lighter. It worked great!! :laughlitt

Now if you want a somewhat cleaner option you can go someplace like and purchase a hard-wire kit for the Roady. It costs about 25 dollars and would allow for a somewhat cleaner install. My only concern about it is whether or not the 4 foot output cord is long enough to go from under the dash up the A-pillar, under the head liner, and over to where you're planning to install the receiver.
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Bare wires are very easy to extend. The box seems quite big though I hope I can hide it in the A-pillar. Anyway, I found it for 15.00 from a reputable store so I may just do that. Thanks alot, I appreciate it.
Way cool!! Good luck with the install. If you don't mind me asking where did you find the hardwire kit? Mine is still extended behind the glove box and connected to my internally wired cigarette lighter. I've been toying with the idea of also hard-wiring mine.

I actually just ordered it. The box is 3.5"x 1.5" so its still somewat big but I can probably hide it in the A-pillar. Would you mind telling me which wires to splice into so I can connect to dome lights so power goes off with ignition and when the door opens. Thanks alot.
fitch615 said:

I actually just ordered it. The box is 3.5"x 1.5" so its still somewat big but I can probably hide it in the A-pillar. Would you mind telling me which wires to splice into so I can connect to dome lights so power goes off with ignition and when the door opens. Thanks alot.
Thanks for the link!

I think you might be better off running two wires up from the passenger side fuse box. It's my understanding that tapping into the circuit used for the dome lights is rather problematic. I've never tried doing it so I'd be unable to accurately comment.
I spliced into the wires at the back of the radio, but it was a PITA to pull out. If you want to go that route, search this forum for a radio wiring diagram. I forget what color the wires were, but I got the diagram from here.

If you can get to the fuse panel, it's probably a lot easier.
you're talking about the fuse panel under the hood correct? If so, how do you wire into that? I dont feel like taking my Radio out again (already have done it a good 10 times) Also, if I wire to the fuse panel I will have to shut XM off everytime I get out of the car rather than just turning off with the ignition, correct? Or does the power to the fusepanel cut off as well?
I think Mart is talking about the fuse panel in the psg kickpanel. It should have a fuse for the radio, which should be the power you want (on with acc delay, off when door opens - check your owners manual for location.) I looked at the fuse panel and decided I didn't want to try and remove it to tap the wires at the rear, and I'm not a big fan of the taps that allow you to push it in with the fuse. The radio seemed simpler when I started. :rolleyes: Looking back, maybe not.
Are there any easy wire connections? I opened up the passenger kickplate and saw the fuse which was for the radio. How would I take the fuse box out to get to the wires behind it? I guess it wouldnt be possible to wrap a wire around each tab of the fuse to use for power.
Yeah, that was my problem too. No idea how to get it out without risking damage to something. Like my mental health. I have in the past seen crimp on connectors that are designed to connect a wire to the fuse tab and then plug it in to the panel, but the looked a little dicey to me. That's why I used a splice connector on the radio wiring instead. I haven't seen those connectors in a couple years, but I'm sure they're still around somewhere.

GL, sorry I don't have the easy answer...
UltraClyde is right... I was referring to the fuse box behind the passenger kick panel. You can get an adapter to connect a wire to an existing fuse. They sell them at most auto parts stores. The challenge is that, for safety sake, you need to install this on the equipment side of the fuse (as opposed to the battery side of the fuse). If you do this the device will lose power when the fuse blows.

I prefer using the add-a-circuit adapters because it fits in the fuse slot that you're using and takes two fuses (one for the original device using that slot and the other for the device you're connecting. Out the side of the "add-a-circuit" is a wire that you connect to the hot wire you ran from the XM power supply. With the add-a-circuit the original device and the XM have their own fuses and are effectively isolated from each other. If there's an electrical problem in one of the sides it stays in that side and doesn't effect the other.

The other thing to consider is to put a switched circuit with an AMP rating no higher than you realistically need. If the XM needs a 5 amp fuse and you tie it into a device with a 10 amp fuse you set the XM up to receiving 10 amps of power before the fuse blows. Depending on the size fuse this could place the hardwire power supply and/or the XM receiver at risk.
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Wow - this hardwiring stuff sounds pretty complicated. I will have my Roady 2 directly connected to the Shaker 500 with the PIE AUX adaptor, but I think I'll stick to using the outlet in the compartment between the seats and keeping the XM Roady in one of my cupholders.
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