Ford Mustang Forum banner

Would love to hear opinions on NEXT performance parts to go with on 2011 Mustang 5.0

2K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  AMDanBailer 
#1 ·
I have a 2011 GTCS 5.0 auto with GT500 mufflers and a JLT CAI with SCT Tuner tuned by BAMA. I want to keep the stock cats and headers. I want to keep the stock torque converter. No supercharger or turbo kit. All else is on the table.

I am looking for the biggest bang for the buck in terms of seat of the pants feel and/or timeslips...not necssarily HP/TQ.

Some ideas?
-H/X-pipe and over the axle tubes to the GT500 mufflers?
-3.73 rear gear?
-Boss intake?
-150 shot of NOS? (but obviously can't use it all of the time)
-Suspension?
-Alum. driveshaft

Can't wait to hear your suggestions!!
 
#2 ·
That's basically an identical set up to what we had here...

‪2011 Mustang GT 5.0L 4V Runs 10.43 @ 130 MPH with Boss Intake Manifold‬‏ - YouTube

AmericanMuscle takes their Automatic 2011 Mustang GT 5.0L 4V back to the track with the addition of a Ford Racing Boss Intake Manifold and 150 shot of Nitrous! With a best of 10.43 @ 130 MPH and a naturally aspirated run of 11.64!

JLT Plasic Cold Air Intake
Ford Racing Boss Intake Manifold
Nitrous Express 150-Shot
L&M Throttle Body
Bama 93 NITROUS Race Tune
Ford Racing 4.10 Gears
Magnaflow Off-Road X-Pipe
Magnaflow Cat-Back System
Mickey Thompson Slicks & Skinnies w/ RaceStar Industries Wheels
Stock Torque Converter
Stock Transmission
Stock Exhaust Manifolds

This is one of the fastest stock trans/stock converter Automatic 2011 Mustang GT's in the country! We'll be back with a torque converter for more! Do we hear 9's?
 
#3 ·
I also have a GT with a auto

So far I have a Borla cat back, with a X pipe, Throttle body, tune, and K&N drop in. So I think a X pipe with your current mods will be a nice addition

I just installed a set of Roush lower control arms, to replace the week stock control arms. I tell you compared to the stock arms, these things are beefy, and even on the street can feel the difference. I think these are a must for anyone drag racing there Mustang. I also like they use rubber bushings rather than urethane, like some other lower arms. Just as quiet on the street as the stockers

It all depends what type of driving you do, myself I do a lot of highway, so I am going to go with 3:55 gears

As for nitrous thats u to you, myself not a fan of that stuff, but I know a lot of guys love the stuff

Get a good set of slicks, some adjustable drag shocks, and down the road when some good torque converts come out, get one of those. To me it is all about your 60 foot times, if you can get off the line, the ET's will come
 
#4 ·
Gears and suspension.
 
#6 ·
I have CS 6M 3:73 with Barton shifter, shaftmaster Alum DS, Steeda Sport Springs, Topiko spec3, Forgestar 20x11s with 315/35 Pilot Super Sports, JLT CAI and oil separator and 93 Octane tune.
My car is a DD, will never be tracked and I want to keep it NA. I will likly add an L&M TB and electric water pump next as I can't see the benefit of the Boss intake on a street machine

Any suggestions on what to do after that? I was looking at heads and cams however that would be a $5k job
 
#7 ·
I have CS 6M 3:73 with Barton shifter, shaftmaster Alum DS, Steeda Sport Springs, Topiko spec3, Forgestar 20x11s with 315/35 Pilot Super Sports, JLT CAI and oil separator and 93 Octane tune.
My car is a DD, will never be tracked and I want to keep it NA. I will likly add an L&M TB and electric water pump next as I can't see the benefit of the Boss intake on a street machine

Any suggestions on what to do after that? I was looking at heads and cams however that would be a $5k job
If yours is a dailly driver, I would be carefull with a electric water pump

I put a Meziere on my Lightning, after a month or so noticed the pulley was wabbling. I called them up, and they told me there was a design flaw, and the fixed the problem, and sent me a new pump. So I installed it and all was wee, at least so i though. On the Way to Norwalk for a drag race in the middle of nowhere Pennsilvania, the pulley let go, and took out all my belts

So if you go with a electric water pump, keep the stock one with you, along with a spare belt
 
#9 ·
Best bang for the buck on your list is NOS. The others add up to dyno hp such as headers, o/r x and Boss intake but really only gives you the power in the higher rpms. You will dyno around 435 but track time reduction is not going to be that drastic. If you are going with gears you should do the convertor also as gears alone in the auto only improve your 60 .2 -.3. Interesting to see stock gears and convertor. Suspension and tires are always a good bet.
 
#10 ·
i've heard mixed emotions about the Throttle body (i've been told it was a bored stock tb, and didnt produce anything on the dyno)
 
#11 ·
Based on what I am hearing for the NEXT one step to get the biggest bang for my buck I should do one of the following:

1. suspension (upper/lower control arms and brackets for launching)
2. gears (3.73s to get out of the hole quicker)
3. NOS (nuf said :winks)

@AMChrisRose which would you recommend first? (and what kind of deal can you make? Just kidding!)

I looked into the Boss intake at first and the hp/tq numbers are there but only on the top end (which you do not feel on a daily driver all day long) plus I would have to also purchase the Ford Racing Strut Tower brace to replace the one that comes stock with my GTCS (what a bummer!)
 
#13 ·
Gears and suspension(control arms/bushings) will help immensely!

You will "feel" more acceleration in the seat of your pants with proper suspension and gearing, as they will get you out of the hole quicker and up to speed faster.

The intake is VERY necessary when you have maxed out the flow capacity of your stock intake manifold. Until then, gears and suspension is where I'd start!
 
#18 ·
Auto... I would gear down next... 3.15 to 3.73.. You will notice the pull..:bigthumbsup.. You got all the other less than 1k gucci go fast stuff.. NOS?? I wouldn't but to each his own..

I wanta gear down mine too.. Just don't wanta lose my mileage.. I drive the highway a lot..
 
#19 ·
Next on the list

I don't 1/4 mile any more, spend most fast time on road course. We have looked hard at the rear setup, the panhard brace/w panhard bar has to be replaced and uppers and lowers, If you go adj you can make sure the drive shaft and pinion are at the right angel. all to reduce wheel hop. We looked at watts link but have had good results with what I stated above. seal9
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top