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Discussion Starter #1
i recently ordered the ford racing X303 camshaft and im really curiouse if my 85 mustang H.O needs different pistons to work with it does anybody know thnx heres the link to the page and warnings at the bottom just a little worried :angry
 

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Yes, no, maybe.
What components do you have in/on your engine to support the X303?

I use it in my 86 GT along with forged notched pistons, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and various other supporting components.
If you are trying to use it in a basically stock engine, I fear you will be disappointed in the results and you will most likely have to use notched pistons for clearance.

You can check the clearance by installing the cam, putting a 1/4" thick layer of play dough or clay on top of the piston in the valve area, bolt the head back on with the gasket you will be using and torque it down as directed by the torquing specs, install the lifters and push rods for that cylinder and slowly and carefully rotate the engine in the operating direction until the valves have opened and closed.
Remove the head, carefully remove the play dough or clay, carefully cut through the thinnest section of the valve indentations and measure the thickness with calipers to get an idea of the clearance you have.

P.S. If, when you are rotating the engine you encounter substantial resistance, do not force it. That most likely means the valve is hitting the piston and if you force it you will end up with a bent valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well then wich cam do you think i should go with for stock pistons and i have e7te heads refurbished if tht helps at all
i live in quebec canada and the cam is currently coming from the states soo its gonna be a pain to switch.... crap. also i was wondering if there is too much lift could i maybe find some slightly shorter pushrods? somehow kinda lookin for a easy way out
 

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well then wich cam do you think i should go with for stock pistons and i have e7te heads refurbished if tht helps at all
i live in quebec canada and the cam is currently coming from the states soo its gonna be a pain to switch.... crap. also i was wondering if there is too much lift could i maybe find some slightly shorter pushrods? somehow kinda lookin for a easy way out
You could maybe go with shorter pushrods along with adjustable rockers, but you still need to check the clearance to be safe.
If memory serves me correctly, I think you can use the B or E cams with stock pistons and heads.
 

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Why are you changing your cam when you have all stock components if I may ask?
 

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i have the x cam with stock bottom end and edelbrock rpm heads with the 1.90 intake valves and I had lots of clearence
 
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well then wich cam do you think i should go with for stock pistons and i have e7te heads refurbished if tht helps at all

Based on the info above the best cam is the the stock cam.....

With upgrading the heads & intake it is like peeing in the ocean hoping the tide will rise......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It was pretty much an impulse buy tht really hurt my wallet I know it was stupid but I'm just trying to have some fun in my five o so u can judge me if you want plus I have no idea how stock my engine is it's an 84 with mixed parts and a hole bunch of crapp forgot to mention I have large intake and carb if tht changes anything
 

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It was pretty much an impulse buy tht really hurt my wallet I know it was stupid but I'm just trying to have some fun in my five o so u can judge me if you want plus I have no idea how stock my engine is it's an 84 with mixed parts and a hole bunch of crapp forgot to mention I have large intake and carb if tht changes anything
Don't get discouraged, or let anyone's comments bother you too much.
Buying a "too big" cam is a common newbie mistake. I did it myself when I was 16.
Then I found out that I needed corresponding mods to the intake and exhaust system for it to work properly.
At first the car was a real pooch, but as I upgraded the intake and exhaust components it began to improve and at the end I had a good sounding decent running vehicle.
If you really want to run the X cam, stick with it and make the upgrades you need to make it work for you.:bigthumbsup
 

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in 1984 5.0L were not roller that cam will not work
True, I had forgotten that 1985 was the first year for the roller cam.
It will work with the roller conversion kit though.
 
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It was pretty much an impulse buy tht really hurt my wallet I know it was stupid but I'm just trying to have some fun in my five o so u can judge me if you want plus I have no idea how stock my engine is it's an 84 with mixed parts and a hole bunch of crapp forgot to mention I have large intake and carb if tht changes anything

Dude nobody is judging you.......

Just pointing out the fact that a big cam is useless without the supporting components.....

Research will be your best friend in the early stages of performance upgrades......

The important thing to remember is.......

It is the sum of all parts that make horsepower.........
 

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Yes, it is a very very bad idea to use a roller cam in a flat-tappet motor, which yours is. Either upgrade to hydraulic rollers or leave it alone.
These are the two things you need to make the conversion:

Ford Racing M-6253-A50 - Ford Racing Hydraulic Roller Lifter Installation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Ford Racing M-6500-R302 - Ford Racing Hydraulic Roller Lifters - Overview - SummitRacing.com

And possibly a different set of pushrods...

I'm not poking a finger at you either, before I knew much of anything I had actually bought an X303 cam as well :laugh:. I elected not to put it in in the end and just resold it.
 

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Dude nobody is judging you.......

Just pointing out the fact that a big cam is useless without the supporting components.....

Research will be your best friend in the early stages of performance upgrades......

The important thing to remember is.......

It is the sum of all parts that make horsepower.........
Amen!

OP....
1. The X-303 is a B-303 on a little bit of steroids. In terms of piston to valve clearances, both are almost identical since they share the same events @.050" tappet lift.

2. If your engine is not a roller ready block (E5, E6, E7 casting number), you would need to upgrade to link bar lifters to use the X-303 or any other regular base circle cam. The spider and dog bones will only work if the camshaft is a reduced/small base circle cam.

3. You also need to upgrade the valve springs in those E7 heads. They will bind (become solid) @.510" valve lift and can/will cause other damages.

4. You should also degree the cam (dot-to-dot can be anywhere from 6° retarded to 6° advanced based on the the cam specs).... + you need to determine the correct pushrod length required in your setup, not the cam, your setup using the X-303.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well when I took out my lifters they are roller and I am awhere that in 85 the roller blocks came in so I'm sure this block has been swapped my car is frankenstein buying parts is a bit difficult
and can i buy springs and pushrods to get proper valve to piston clearance i dont have the money to buy a whole new set of rockers and valves at the moment plus i want to get some gt heads or edelbrock rpm in the future so further mods would be useless in the end for me. when i receive the cam i will check clearance because with my car who knows if the pushrods are even stock. so i will post back when i get the x303 bbut thnx to all of you
 
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Well when I took out my lifters they are roller and I am awhere that in 85 the roller blocks came in so I'm sure this block has been swapped my car is frankenstein buying parts is a bit difficult
and can i buy springs and pushrods to get proper valve to piston clearance i dont have the money to buy a whole new set of rockers and valves at the moment plus i want to get some gt heads or edelbrock rpm in the future so further mods would be useless in the end for me. when i receive the cam i will check clearance because with my car who knows if the pushrods are even stock. so i will post back when i get the x303 bbut thnx to all of you

Is this thing on....:?:

I don't think he heard a single word we said.......:banghead:
 

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Is this thing on....:?:

I don't think he heard a single word we said.......:banghead:
I think it's a little after the fact to tell him that in order to fit springs that will work well with that cam the heads will have to be machined...... :sleeping:

Okay, I am ready for the rear end gear phase to start again, I have more fun with that. The cam thing is getting old.
I'll start it right now:
"Always use Ford Racing gears, period." :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
im sorry guys i know i sound like a dumb ass and i know i am, just the snow has melted and my car still gutted in my garage. im just soo jumpy to get it done this is my project and my baby. so if you can just stand my retardedness a few more times you guys can realllllly help me.
do you know what the stock length is of pushrods and wich brand is recommended. part numbers would help also or links so far i have only seen lunati
 
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im sorry guys i know i sound like a dumb ass and i know i am, just the snow has melted and my car still gutted in my garage. im just soo jumpy to get it done this is my project and my baby. so if you can just stand my retardedness a few more times you guys can realllllly help me.
Admitting you have a problem is the first step to recovery......:rollgrin:



do you know what the stock length is of pushrods and wich brand is recommended. part numbers would help also or links so far i have only seen lunati
before buying pushrods you really need to buy this......

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp%20Cams/249/7702-1/10002/-1?CT=999


after you determine the size go with a hardened pushrods

i recommend ford racing for you application......
 

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Discussion Starter #20
wow i had no idea this existed!!!!?!?!?!? well im in school for mechanics so ill ask my teacher if he has them to borrow haha you have to understand tht living where i do parts are very expensive i pay duties and stupid crapp on everything its actually cheaper to order from the states and pay shipping
 
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