help installing borla s type cat back - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
89stangin's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
Location: San Leadnro
Posts: 96
 
help installing borla s type cat back

I'm getting ready to install the borla s type cat back. I read the directions and I have a couple of questions. How tight do you torque the exhaust ball clamps when re-installing the over axles and the axle backs (torque spec)? Also, the instructions ask you to cut the tab off of the OE ball clamp on both over axles... do you have to do that? Let me know if anyone has any other advice on installing the system. Thanks!

89stangin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014
PONY Member
 
tntoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2014
Location: Memphis
Posts: 461
 
The clamp is permanently attached to the old muffler via a thin tab to aid in assembly of the vehicle. The clamp is ready and waiting when they are installing the mufflers, that way.

You'll need to either cut the clamp off after removing the muffler, or do the venerable ,"wiggle it back and forth a trillion times until it falls off" routine.

Torque spec? GutenTite. Do it the German way. Its a sheetmetal clamp, so don't run it down with a 1/2 impact fullbore. Good and snug with a 3/8" ratchet should be fine.


2014 Sterling Gray GT Premium with silver stripes / MT-82 / Brembo / Recaro
Steeda Sports | Koni Yellows | BMR Panhard and LCA Brackets
MGW shifter | Borla S-types
tntoy is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
89stangin's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
Location: San Leadnro
Posts: 96
 
thanks! I have the car up in the air on ramps but I can't get the over axles out. I think I need to put the car on jack stands and let the axle hang for clearance. I hear that you should not jack the car under the differential is that true? It is seeming like the differential housing is my only choice right now.

Thanks again!
89stangin is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014
PONY Member
 
BLK 5.0's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 392
 
Yes, you need to get the car as high as possible. Jack stands will typically get it higher than ramps. I have both, so I drove front end up on ramps, lifted rear of car with a jack centered under the differential (there is no reason you can't do this) and support the body in the rear with jack stands. You will need a good 6 inches more drop off the rear axle than full sag will provide. You need to support rear axle with the jack, remove panhard bar, remove the lower end of the shocks, remove the rear brake lines from the body as a precaution and lower the rear end till you can remove the over axle pipes. This is the same procedure needed to remove the rear coil springs.

2011 GT Coupe Premium, Black exterior with Charcoal black turned leather interior. Rapid spec 400A with 6-speed MT, 3.73 limited slip axle, 19" painted aluminum wheels, HID headlamps, comfort package. FRPP tune with K&N air filter. FRPP Touring axle back exhaust with Borla 2 3/4" over axle pipes. ST Suspensions coilovers w/GT500 mounts. Spohn poly/del sphere adjustable lower control arms and Spohn adjustable panhard bar with Steeda panhard bar brace. Hotchkis Sport sway bars.

BLK 5.0 is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
89stangin's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
Location: San Leadnro
Posts: 96
 
Will I need a rear end alignment after removing shocks. Not even sure if you can align the rear? Is torque a concern on the suspension components mentioned or is the good and tight method sufficient?
89stangin is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014
PONY Member
 
Dawg5.0's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Stuart
Posts: 299
 
No alignment needed just for removing rear dampers. There is nothing to adjust and the dampers will damp change anything geometry wise. Since I could not put a torque wrench on the upper nut for the dampers when I installed mine, I just marker where the nut was on the original shocks before removing and matched it on the new ones. I used a torque wrench on the lowered fasteners though as it is better to tighten to spec when possible.

I also don't see anything wrong with jacking by the rear pumpkin as long as you make sure the cover is clear as that an be damaged. The wiggling method works fine for removing the muffler clamps too. It is not strong and only takes a few cycles to get it to break.

2013 Red Candy Metallic GT Premium Coupe
Black Leather, 6MT, Comfort Package, Brembo Package, 3.55 Axle
Borla Touring axle back, Suntec CXP 45% window tint, Eibach Pro-Kit, Steeda Strut Mounts, Rear Upper Control Arm and Panhard Bar, BMR Relocation Brackets, Energy Suspension Shifter Bushing
Dawg5.0 is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
89stangin's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
Location: San Leadnro
Posts: 96
 
Ok i got the over axles out and I'm trying to install the X pipe. I can't get the accuseal clamps on the X pipe! These are the borla provided clamps. Anyone have a trick for getting g the clamps onto the X pipe?
89stangin is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
89stangin's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
Location: San Leadnro
Posts: 96
 
I think that I have a defective x-pipe. Take a look at the slit on the expanded portion of the x pipe. The slit is connected. I'm thinking that I will cut the slit with a sawzall so that it can compress. What should I do here? Borla is closed on the week end. I think that if I cut the slit that I can slide

help installing borla s type cat back-borla-x-pipe.jpg the clamp on there.
89stangin is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014
PONY Member
 
tntoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2014
Location: Memphis
Posts: 461
 
As long as the slit will be covered with/sealed by the new clamp, go ahead and open that up so that your components will slide together.

2014 Sterling Gray GT Premium with silver stripes / MT-82 / Brembo / Recaro
Steeda Sports | Koni Yellows | BMR Panhard and LCA Brackets
MGW shifter | Borla S-types
tntoy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1