[89stangin]

I'm getting ready to install the borla s type cat back. I read the directions and I have a couple of questions. How tight do you torque the exhaust ball clamps when re-installing the over axles and the axle backs (torque spec)? Also, the instructions ask you to cut the tab off of the OE ball clamp on both over axles... do you have to do that? Let me know if anyone has any other advice on installing the system. Thanks!

 

[tntoy]

The clamp is permanently attached to the old muffler via a thin tab to aid in assembly of the vehicle. The clamp is ready and waiting when they are installing the mufflers, that way.

You'll need to either cut the clamp off after removing the muffler, or do the venerable ,"wiggle it back and forth a trillion times until it falls off" routine.

Torque spec? GutenTite. Do it the German way. Its a sheetmetal clamp, so don't run it down with a 1/2 impact fullbore. Good and snug with a 3/8" ratchet should be fine.

 

[89stangin]

thanks! I have the car up in the air on ramps but I can't get the over axles out. I think I need to put the car on jack stands and let the axle hang for clearance. I hear that you should not jack the car under the differential is that true? It is seeming like the differential housing is my only choice right now.

Thanks again!

 

[BLK 5.0]

Yes, you need to get the car as high as possible. Jack stands will typically get it higher than ramps. I have both, so I drove front end up on ramps, lifted rear of car with a jack centered under the differential (there is no reason you can't do this) and support the body in the rear with jack stands. You will need a good 6 inches more drop off the rear axle than full sag will provide. You need to support rear axle with the jack, remove panhard bar, remove the lower end of the shocks, remove the rear brake lines from the body as a precaution and lower the rear end till you can remove the over axle pipes. This is the same procedure needed to remove the rear coil springs.

 

[89stangin]

Will I need a rear end alignment after removing shocks. Not even sure if you can align the rear? Is torque a concern on the suspension components mentioned or is the good and tight method sufficient?

 

[Dawg5.0]

No alignment needed just for removing rear dampers. There is nothing to adjust and the dampers will damp change anything geometry wise. Since I could not put a torque wrench on the upper nut for the dampers when I installed mine, I just marker where the nut was on the original shocks before removing and matched it on the new ones. I used a torque wrench on the lowered fasteners though as it is better to tighten to spec when possible.

I also don't see anything wrong with jacking by the rear pumpkin as long as you make sure the cover is clear as that an be damaged. The wiggling method works fine for removing the muffler clamps too. It is not strong and only takes a few cycles to get it to break.

 

[89stangin]

Ok i got the over axles out and I'm trying to install the X pipe. I can't get the accuseal clamps on the X pipe! These are the borla provided clamps. Anyone have a trick for getting g the clamps onto the X pipe?

 

[89stangin]

I think that I have a defective x-pipe. Take a look at the slit on the expanded portion of the x pipe. The slit is connected. I'm thinking that I will cut the slit with a sawzall so that it can compress. What should I do here? Borla is closed on the week end. I think that if I cut the slit that I can slide

the clamp on there.

 

[tntoy]

As long as the slit will be covered with/sealed by the new clamp, go ahead and open that up so that your components will slide together.