[JDCAT26]

After researching a way to add a 12" Subwoofer to my 2005 Mustang GT conv, i went with a custom made enclosure by MTX that is shaped exactly like my trunk corner. I am very pleased with the final install, and recommend to any mustang owner that wants a sub in the trunk. I like to pass good info to others on these forums, since i always get good advice and help from you guys! So the enclosure is a MTX Thunderform Subwoofer model FMUST05D12U. You can purchase it with a MTX 12" subwoofer (BUT I WOULD RECOMMEND ORDERING WITHOUT THE INCLUDED SUB BECAUSE THAT SUB SUCKS A BIT). The best price to get it is $219 (without MTX sub), or $259 (with sub). Also if you do choose to get the MTX sub, you can pay $130 more for a built in amp. But since the MTX sub and amp is weak, i just bought the enclosure empty, and installed a new Alpine Type R 12" sub with a Kenwood 9105D amp. And i must say..wow! it sounds incredible. The website that has this enclosure at the lowest price is Ford Mustang 05-10 MTX Thunderform Subwoofer Enclosure - Subwoofer Box | Subwoofer Enclosures | Car Subwoofer Boxes and Truck Subwoofer Boxes at SuperCrewSound. Trust me, this enclosure looks great and matches the trunk like a factory setup. Who knew you could put a 12" subwoofer in a convertibles trunk and still have room for luggage!

 

[rlallish]

thanks for info...been lookin at getting one

 

[00colburn]

thanks for the info and thats awesome to have a custom box that fits our mustangs trunk

 

[CyberCon]

Just to throw out another brand...
JL makes one also.
Ford Mustang Stealthbox by JL Audio

 

[JDCAT26]

Just to throw out another brand...
JL makes one also.
Ford Mustang Stealthbox by JL Audio

Yeah, i also looked at that JL one (on Crutchfield) when deciding. It is a little bit nicer then the MTX. But the price turned me off. $1000.00 is just too much for that. A 10% nicer box, at a 400% higher price. Not cost justifiable to me.

 

[CyberCon]

But there is a different in sound quality also.

 

[JBert]

Nice find, thanks for posting!

Some real basic questions about this:

1) is the wiring already there with the Shaker 500 system, or do you have to run wires from the head unit to the trunk? and also a wire to supply the power?

2) how do you handle the cross-over so the speakers inside the car are not still trying to produce the low bass?

3) with the sub in the trunk, you have the seat between the speaker and the listening area, doesn't that make it sound like mud?

 

[rob203zob]

These custom boxes are pretty cool! Are these movable, just in case you want to access the taillights?

 

[JDCAT26]

Nice find, thanks for posting!

Some real basic questions about this:

1) is the wiring already there with the Shaker 500 system, or do you have to run wires from the head unit to the trunk? and also a wire to supply the power?

2) how do you handle the cross-over so the speakers inside the car are not still trying to produce the low bass?

3) with the sub in the trunk, you have the seat between the speaker and the listening area, doesn't that make it sound like mud?

1) You can grab the speaker wires for the rear speakers easily by removing the back seat. The rear speakers wires are on the sides. They are together with other wires, but the speakers wires are the only ones that are twisted together (+ and -). The rear speaker wire colors are LR+ Gr/LB LR- TN/YE RR+ OR/PK RR- BR/PK. Once you have the speaker wires, you can connect them to a LOC (line out converter).

2)The Kenwood 9105D has a built in crossover that allows you to filter out certain frequencies of bass. You "tweek" the amp once installed to your preference. So just make sure you use an amp like this. An amp with an adjustable LPF (low pass filter)... and an ISF switch (Infrasonic filter) helps sometimes too.

3) once you are in the trunk, pull back the back part of the cardboard floor cover (it will crack the cardboard, but it stays together from the carpeting and can be returned back the way it was if you want). When you do that, you will then see, and be able to touch the back seat. You will also see into the car thru the seperation of the rear seats top and bottom portions. Only like 1/4 of an inch gap, but that helps sound (escpecially low bass) travel thru. And the rear seat isnt that thick or sound-proof. With the rear seat removed, you can actually stick your whole hand into the car and touch the metal underneath of the back seat(from he trunk).

I did have your same concerns as you, before i did this install. But believe me, it was an easier install than i expected. And sounded better than i expected. I wasnt sure if there was a solid metal wall between the trunk and inside of car. But when i pulled back the cardboard trunk floor cover and seen light, then noticed i was looking at my windshield (from the trunk!), i was happy and knew this was do-ible. This is why i wanted to let others know of my findings! Do it! you will love the sound! Install is easy!

NOTE: There was a trick to get into the engine area from the car to run my 4 guage main power+ lead to battery. I was prepared for this as i researched and found 2 forums with this info. You basiclly go thru the firewall, but that leads to the wheel well. Then from there you run to the engine bay. But i know what your thinking...power wire thru wheel well! BUT the wire you run will be in the wheel well behind the wheel well cover. So it is protected and wont hit suspension or wheel. It is safe. I used wire loom to be safe, but really didnt need it. Running the main power+ wire thru firewall to engine was the only hard part, and it wasnt really that hard.

Let em know if you have nay other questions, or want me to take pics of anything.

 

[JDCAT26]

These custom boxes are pretty cool! Are these movable, just in case you want to access the taillights?

Yes. The box comes with mounting screws. But i just used one side of velcro on the bottom of the box. It is stable and can be removed if needed.

 

[JDCAT26]

These custom boxes are pretty cool! Are these movable, just in case you want to access the taillights?

Heres a pic of the box just after i received it. Before i installed the Alpine TypeR sub.

 

[JDCAT26]

These custom boxes are pretty cool! Are these movable, just in case you want to access the taillights?

And heres a pic of the Kenwood 9105d. 1 Pic is right out of the box, and 1 pic of it installed. BUT i took the pic before i neatened up the wires. Just after install. So it looks cleaner now.

ALSO- This amp is $300.00. But they are on ebay NEW for $175.00! Same thing with the Alpine Type R sub. That is a $250 sub, but on ebay NEW for $120. And the 2 go excellent together. compatible power(rms)/ohms etc.

 

[s197inthe208]

I digg it :bigthumbsup

 

[rob203zob]

Thanks for the pics, I'm in love lol. I have 2 12"s in my trunk as well, but I paid $250 for the box and subs (Kickers) which is the price of just one of these custom cases.

These are definitely a good buy though, because I can't really fit a lot in my trunk but since these are off to the sides it looks like it conserves space. :bigthumbsup

 

[murderedstang]

hey after reading this forum and researching i ended up getting the same sub, box and even amp. it was a great deal. i just need to know how you hooked up the sub to the amp. ive called crutchfield and checked everywhere online but im just getting more and more confused. any help?

 

[ummduh]

hey after reading this forum and researching i ended up getting the same sub, box and even amp. it was a great deal. i just need to know how you hooked up the sub to the amp. ive called crutchfield and checked everywhere online but im just getting more and more confused. any help?

There are several ways, and it all depends on what you have equipment wise.

If you still have a stock head unit, you'll need to splice from the rear speaker wires and run them to the "High-Level Input" on your amp.

If you have an aftermarket head unit, you'll need to run a pair of RCA cables from the head unit to the amp, and a remote turn on wire.

 

[SteelerCountry]

Have fun bumpin' those tunes!