[penncoleb]

New to the mustang restoration game. Currently piecing together a 65 with a v6 200. Got the ignition system figured out and sparks, and can get engine to run by pouring gas down the carb. However, I am not getting fuel. I took the fuel line out of the carb and confirmed that I am not getting fuel, so I figured it was the fuel pump. the car does not have a fuel tank or fuel lines, so I currently have a hose down into a gas can. Not sure if that could be the culprit either. I replaced it with the one pictured below. But I still am not getting fuel through the line. Any Suggestions, or could I have just bought a fuel pump that does not work?

 

[Grimbrand]

You can test the pump without it hooked to anything; they are super simple. Just two little flapper valves. When you push on the lever (you can just shove it against a workbench or something while holding the rest of the mechanism) you should feel air going in one port and it should whoosh out the other. It's just an industrial strength squirt gun, more or less. If it's not doing those things, then the pump's bad.

If the eccentric isn't pushing the arm up and down when the engine's spinning, then it won't work either.

But the last thing that's possible is simple: These pumps can't "suck" very well. If the gas can is well below the level of the pump, it may be having trouble drawing the fuel upward. It's almost gravity-fed from the gas tank in the back of your car. So test that too, if you can find a better way to situate your fuel can safely.

Be aware, these old carbureted cars do backfire through the carb sometimes. Plan accordingly, and ensure that vapors aren't going to be ignited, especially if you're working on this in a garage.

Welcome to AFM, Penncoleb!

 

[penncoleb]

Thanks for the prompt response, caught me by surprise. The lever moves less than 1/4 of an inch, not sure if that is normal, but will check to see if there is any intake of air when it does move the small amount. Also will re-look at the gas can situation. I assume the best way is to have a gravity fed system to the pump? Thanks

 

[Grimbrand]

The springs on the pump are pretty stiff. But it should probably move more than 1/4 inch; more like 1/2" I'd think. Yes, gravity fed would work! And you don't have to prime the pump or anything; it can suck air out of the line fine too - it just won't draw the fuel 'up' very well, especially when it's sucking air.

 

[penncoleb]

The springs on the pump are pretty stiff. But it should probably move more than 1/4 inch; more like 1/2" I'd think. Yes, gravity fed would work! And you don't have to prime the pump or anything; it can suck air out of the line fine too - it just won't draw the fuel 'up' very well, especially when it's sucking air.

Ok! will try check for air and fix the fuel tank tomorrow

 

[Grimbrand]

And again - just in case I wasn't clear - it is temping to just plonk the gas can on a fender and let it rip - but make sure it can't fall into the fan, or over on the engine somehow - and that if there's a spark or backfire, you're not going to have a hot time. =)

 

[crjackson]

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[penncoleb]

Morning update. Took out the fuel pump and worked it on the side of the workbench, can now get the lever to move enough. I then hooked up a line into it from a gas can and worked it on the bench again and it sprayed fuel as advertised. However, when I put it into the car, nothing comes out, whether I used a gravity fed fuel line or not. Does the car need to run in order for the pump to work?

 

[penncoleb]

Is it also possible that the pump pictured is not the correct one for this motor?

 

[Grimbrand]

The pump gets moved by an eccentric on the cam. It gets one pump per turn of the crank. Usually, that would take a lot of cranking to start fuel to the carb! It's a lot easier to fill the bowl on the carb with a little funnel first, and start it. By the time the bowl is running out of fuel, you should have some gas up to the filter and the carb, hopefully. Did you check to make sure the filter between the pump and carb isn't all clogged?

Correction: one pump per two turns of the crank! The cam turns the eccentric, not the crankshaft. =)

 

[65falconspock]

@penncoleb I’ve an 65 Falcon with a 200 in it , the pump you want that is factory has a 3.5 in filter on it . Part no c3az-9350-y ( as far as I can find)
hope this helps!
-Blake
also when referring to an inline engine instead of v6 i6 or straight 6 . when talking with Hudson and Buick guys you’ll even here i8 or straight 8 .

 

[johnwaz3661]

You'll most likely find on the pump that 65falconspock recommends, what looks to be a metal block attached to the arm of the pump where it rides on the camshaft. If it doesn't have that, the cam lobe won't actuate the fuel pump. I ran into this problem myself, as certain aftermarket suppliers consolidate part numbers, which doesn't always work. I ended up purchasing a replacement pump at NPD (their Michigan store is about a half hour from me), but if you have a different favorite Mustang restoration parts supplier, I'd bet they have it too.

 

[65falconspock]

Found a picture for you to put his words into pictorial form.Straight from the shop manual !

 

[penncoleb]

I ended up buying a new pump that falconspock recommended and set up a gravity fed fuel supply, and she pumps like a champ. Thank you all so much! Blown away by the helpfulness and willing to teach on this site.

 

[65falconspock]

@penncoleb Ask the right questions and help shall be provided ! Glad I could be of service, I’m overly excited to hear a straight 6 being saved instead of a swap occurring !
-Blake

 

[CA65FB]

I had a similar problem with an I6 stumbling.. tried everything until I found out the carb nuts were not tight on the manifold. Literally lifted it about 1/4 inch off 🤣 simplest things first!!

 

[johnwaz3661]

The later 200's were bad for the carb screws loosening up between the base plate and the float bowl. I could literally twist the carb a little and make it run better. Usually could have it fixed in about 20 minutes once I knew what to look for.

 

[65falconspock]

The later 200's were bad for the carb screws loosening up between the base plate and the float bowl. I could literally twist the carb a little and make it run better. Usually could have it fixed in about 20 minutes once I knew what to look for.

With which carb because from factory there where two carbs used Autolite 1100 or the Holley 1904 never had a problem with the Holley.

 

[johnwaz3661]

I'm not sure to be honest. It was whatever carb Ford put on the Fairmont/Fox Mustang era 200 (or 3.3 as they called it). I fixed a lot of those back when those cars were popular.

 

[65falconspock]

Must be the autolite, no wonder you fixed a lot way Back when lol there garbage in my opinion