I found out the other day that I need to replace my tie rod ends and my dad said to go ahead and replace both drivers side and passenger side. Only the passenger side is bad. He said there is one on the drivers side and one on the passenger side but then I got to order some and there are inner and outer tie end rods. I just really need some clarification. This is a 1965 mustang with no power steering
VasiliBrown
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I found out the other day that I need to replace my tie rod ends and my dad said to go ahead and replace both drivers side and passenger side. Only the passenger side is bad. He said there is one on the drivers side and one on the passenger side but then I got to order some and there are inner and outer tie end rods. I just really need some clarification. This is a 1965 mustang with no power steering
G
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·hello;
have someone sit in the car and wiggle the steering wheel quickly 1/4 turn right of center then 1/4 turn left of center without stopping.
look at the tie rods CLOSELY if there is ANY play it is worn.
look at the idler arm, if it goes up and down at all as it goes left to right it is bad.
i suggest scott drake or moog premium parts only.
if you have manual steering, grab the rag joint on the steering box and move it left to right. look at your steering arm. if there is any play before your steering arm moves you need to adjust the steering box or buy a new one if you want tight steering.
have someone sit in the car and wiggle the steering wheel quickly 1/4 turn right of center then 1/4 turn left of center without stopping.
look at the tie rods CLOSELY if there is ANY play it is worn.
look at the idler arm, if it goes up and down at all as it goes left to right it is bad.
i suggest scott drake or moog premium parts only.
if you have manual steering, grab the rag joint on the steering box and move it left to right. look at your steering arm. if there is any play before your steering arm moves you need to adjust the steering box or buy a new one if you want tight steering.
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Follow above instructions. Yes there are inner and outer tie rod ends. Get under the car and you will see a center link which comes from the steering box. It is connected to each wheel via a tie rod. With an adjustable inner end and outer end. Follow cpe67 instructions and replace worn parts. The idler arm is the piece that attaches the center link to the passenger side of the frame.
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this is my philosophy.
1. why would you expect that whatever forces caused that one tie rod end to go bad not to have affected the others?
2. do you really want to go through this again in 2-3 months?
3. the tie rod ends are not that expensive but they are a critical component of your steering system.
so if you are going to put it up on the jack stands or whater and replace one you might as well make sure they are all good so you don't have to do it again any time soon.
I really like mustangs plus for there suspension components. here is a link to a complete kit for 65 mustangs that has all new components for 165.00 including new adjusters.
1965 1966 Mustang Steering Kit V8 Power (Grab-A-Trak®) | Mustangs Plus - Buy Mustang Parts Online
1. why would you expect that whatever forces caused that one tie rod end to go bad not to have affected the others?
2. do you really want to go through this again in 2-3 months?
3. the tie rod ends are not that expensive but they are a critical component of your steering system.
so if you are going to put it up on the jack stands or whater and replace one you might as well make sure they are all good so you don't have to do it again any time soon.
I really like mustangs plus for there suspension components. here is a link to a complete kit for 65 mustangs that has all new components for 165.00 including new adjusters.
1965 1966 Mustang Steering Kit V8 Power (Grab-A-Trak®) | Mustangs Plus - Buy Mustang Parts Online
Hello. 
If it was my car, I would go ahead and replace both the inner and outer tie rod ends, along with the adjusting sleeves. Like mccance suggested, if one of them is worn out, the rest of that stuff isn't in much better shape. They aren't very expensive, and you are betting your life on them every time you drive the car. I would get Moog.
If it was my car, I would go ahead and replace both the inner and outer tie rod ends, along with the adjusting sleeves. Like mccance suggested, if one of them is worn out, the rest of that stuff isn't in much better shape. They aren't very expensive, and you are betting your life on them every time you drive the car. I would get Moog.
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So. There is wiggle in the passenger side but not the driver's side. I'm on a high schooler working part time budget. What information I have retained at this point is that I need to get an inner and outer tie rod end for the passenger side. And I should go ahead and fix the driver side even though no issues with that side have arised?
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Is there a difference in the parts if the car has piwer steering or not?
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Can anyone confirm this information I just found out. For manual steering the outer tie rod ends are the same on driver and passenger side and the same goes for the inner.
Also I will be replacing both sides. Is it easier than replacing track bar bushings or ball joints? Do I need new adjustor sleeves or will it be alright to use the old ones?
Also I will be replacing both sides. Is it easier than replacing track bar bushings or ball joints? Do I need new adjustor sleeves or will it be alright to use the old ones?
G
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·unless rock auto is selling name brand parts like the moog ones i suggested, i would not use them.
if a cheap chines radiator or starter solenoid breaks at least you won't die.
if your sleeves are not rusty and the threads are good, they are just fine to use and might be better material than the new ones if they are original.
sway bar bushings are cake, ball joints are hard if it's your first time. tie rod ends are kinda easy but getting the sleeve loose can sometimes be a challenge.
you will need to set your toe in after or have the front end it aligned.
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Rockauto indeed does sell moog. They sell them for alot cheaper through warehouse closeout. Can you verify the information regarding outer being the same on both passenger and driver side as well as the inner rods.
G
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·v8 eng
outer same with or without ps.
inner both the same for non ps but different than the outers.
driver inner different for ps.
try oreilys too.
you need a pickle fork and big hammer.
outer same with or without ps.
inner both the same for non ps but different than the outers.
driver inner different for ps.
try oreilys too.
you need a pickle fork and big hammer.
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I have a pickle fork as well as what most people refer to as a BFH haha.
G
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·ok, cool, lol.
Hi again. The inner and the outer tie rod ends, along with the adjusting sleeves, are the same on a 65/66 manual steering car. There is no left or right. The Moog outer tie rod ends should run you something in the $25 range, the inners will be about $70, and the adjusting sleeves are something in the $10 range. I wouldn't go the 'pickle fork & BFH' route. It is not very difficult to damage the spindles or the drag link like that. A ball joint puller is not an expensive tool, works better, and does not require all of that physical exertion. All though, I must confess that I have more hammers than I do screwdrivers.
The inner and the outer tie rod ends, along with the adjusting sleeves, are the same on a 65/66 manual steering car. There is no left or right. The Moog outer tie rod ends should run you something in the $25 range, the inners will be about $70, and the adjusting sleeves are something in the $10 range. I wouldn't go the 'pickle fork & BFH' route. It is not very difficult to damage the spindles or the drag link like that. A ball joint puller is not an expensive tool, works better, and does not require all of that physical exertion. All though, I must confess that I have more hammers than I do screwdrivers.
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Ditto on the ball joint separator. Inexpensive at harbor freight. Much better choice vs fork.
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Is that the same as a pitman arm puller
Hi again. It's a smaller version of the same concept. The two fingers of a pitman arm puller are just a little bit too far apart to grab on the spindle or drag link at the places the tie rod ends attach. One thing to go ahead and accept gracefully is that, if you are going to work on this car, you will accumulate a pretty impressive array of specialized tools.
It's a smaller version of the same concept. The two fingers of a pitman arm puller are just a little bit too far apart to grab on the spindle or drag link at the places the tie rod ends attach. One thing to go ahead and accept gracefully is that, if you are going to work on this car, you will accumulate a pretty impressive array of specialized tools.
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Thank you Veronica. You and 67cpe always post great stuff
the advantage to replacing the adjusting sleeves is to make it easier for you. if you do not replace them make sure you count the number of threads that are sticking out of them on each side, and just to be safe measure the total length before you take it apart. if you buy the adjusting sleeves you can just set them to be the same length as your original tie rod and pull it off then your toe in should be close enough to get you to the alignment shop at least.
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