[arkie 2]

I was poking around on the bottom of my gas tank yesterday looking for the source of a slow leak when my finger went right through the tank and gas began pouring out! I was pretty busy scrambling around trying to capture the escaping gas but I believe there was a patch job right where the leak is. Seems like there was nothing holding the fuel in but a layer of rust and sediment at the bottom of the tank (the leak is at the lowest part of the tank). Needless to say, I'm ordering a new tank and parts today or tomorrow. First order of business though is disposing of about 10-15 gallons of gas, removing the old tank and replacing it somewhere down the road.

Any help is appreciated, such as tips on tank removal and disposal, tank installation etc. I have a Chiltons but the description of removing and replacing the tank assumes skill I don't possess. If any of you have experience in this and could offer tips or point me towards a detailed description of the process I would be most grateful!

 

[Veronica]

Hello. Removing the gas tank from a 66 Mustang is a very simple matter. After you have drained the gas out of it into suitable containers, unplug the wire from the fuel sending unit and disconnect the fuel line from the sending unit. Next, remove the gas cap. There's a nut inside the trunk, behind the filler neck, that holds the don't-lose-me cable onto the car. Next, remove the four retaining screws for the filler neck flange. Then, loosen the two hose clamps on the filler neck hose all the way and break the filler necl hose loose from the tank. Then remove the filler neck hose from the filler neck and pull the filler neck out through the hole in the tailight panel. Next, remove the gazillion sheet metal screws holding the tank to the car. There could also be one 5/16 bolt, which takes a 1/2 inch wrench. This is holding the top of the driver's side bumperette bracket, but, it also holds the corner of the gas tank. If your car is a GT and doesn't have the bumperettes because of the dual exhaust, that bolt won't be there. Now you are ready to snatch the old gas tank out. If it appears to be stuck because of the sealer that Ford put around the edge of it, you can take a floor jack and a piece of a 2X4 a couple of feet long and jack up on the bottom of the tank to break the tank loose. Don't lift the car up far enough to have the wheels all the way off of the ground, though. When the tank does suddenly turn loose, one of the wheels could possibly land on your foot when the back of the car drops. Nothing to it.

 

[Ivy66GT]

I agree; its an easy job compared to most. The new Canadian tank I bought was also one of the better and more authentic repro parts I have seen; a bargain at $100. I could have almost paid that much for the gas in it last year.

Question:

If your car is a GT and doesn't have the bumperettes because of the dual exhaust, that bolt won't be there.

Since I don't have that bolt, what should go in the hole, if anything? Now it only holds dirt.:so

 

[Veronica]

Hi again. That's not dirt, that's your factory-installed organic sealant. :gringreen

 

[Ivy66GT]

Does that have a part number?

So, other than sealant, organic or otherwise, the hole should be empty unless it holds a bumperette bracket?

 

[arkie 2]

Hello. Removing the gas tank from a 66 Mustang is a very simple matter. After you have drained the gas out of it into suitable containers, unplug the wire from the fuel sending unit and disconnect the fuel line from the sending unit. Next, remove the gas cap. There's a nut inside the trunk, behind the filler neck, that holds the don't-lose-me cable onto the car. Next, remove the four retaining screws for the filler neck flange. Then, loosen the two hose clamps on the filler neck hose all the way and break the filler necl hose loose from the tank. Then remove the filler neck hose from the filler neck and pull the filler neck out through the hole in the tailight panel. Next, remove the gazillion sheet metal screws holding the tank to the car. There could also be one 5/16 bolt, which takes a 1/2 inch wrench. This is holding the top of the driver's side bumperette bracket, but, it also holds the corner of the gas tank. If your car is a GT and doesn't have the bumperettes because of the dual exhaust, that bolt won't be there. Now you are ready to snatch the old gas tank out. If it appears to be stuck because of the sealer that Ford put around the edge of it, you can take a floor jack and a piece of a 2X4 a couple of feet long and jack up on the bottom of the tank to break the tank loose. Don't lift the car up far enough to have the wheels all the way off of the ground, though. When the tank does suddenly turn loose, one of the wheels could possibly land on your foot when the back of the car drops. Nothing to it.

Hey, thanks for that quick reply! I just got off the phone with Virginia Classic Mustang and all parts are ordered, I hope. As for draining the tank and catching it in suitable containers, that happened pretty much automatically when I poked the hole in the bottom of the tank!:laugh: Now that I have all that gas in whatever was available at the time (garbage can, gallon buckets etc.) I'm going to try and recycle it so I can burn it in my truck instead of having to carry it to the landfill. I figure I'll strain it and put it in the tank. Wish me luck.

 

[colbert66]

Like everyone else has said, this is a very simple procedure. But one point that I would add would be spray your tank before you install it. When i bought mine it was just stainless on the bottom, which i guess looks nice if your interested in that... but i primed and sprayed a rubberized undercoating on mine right when i got it. Just takes a couple hours to dry before you put it back in. Not much time or money and will be worth it in the long haul, easier now than after its installed.

 

[mccance]

Like everyone else has said, this is a very simple procedure. But one point that I would add would be spray your tank before you install it. When i bought mine it was just stainless on the bottom, which i guess looks nice if your interested in that... but i primed and sprayed a rubberized undercoating on mine right when i got it. Just takes a couple hours to dry before you put it back in. Not much time or money and will be worth it in the long haul, easier now than after its installed.

I like the look of the natural metal but like you I did not want my tank to rust as quickly as it normally would so I sprayed mine with clearcoat. same idea protect it from the elements.

 

[Veronica]

Does that have a part number?

So, other than sealant, organic or otherwise, the hole should be empty unless it holds a bumperette bracket?

Hi again. Ford didn't put anything in that hole specifically, but, since it is where it is, it should have a some of the sealer that they used around the gas tank sort of plugging it up.

 

[Ivy66GT]

I'll make sure some of the caulk gets glopped in the hole to keep out the water. Such water is what rusted my tank to begin with - on top underneath the mat and insulation pad!!

Bill,

I also bought my tank from VCM so yours should look just like my new one. It won't be stainless but galvanized steel just like the one Ford used. The metal thickness, total weight, stamping details, etc., measured and looked identical to the original. The zinc on galvanized steel is a sacrificial layer that prevents rust. Eventually that layer disappears or gets scratched and then the tank can rust in a damp climate in the spots where there is no zinc. If you are concerned about that I would choose a clear coat over undercoating for several reasons. First it looks original but there is also a problem with undercoating since it is opaque. Rust can form underneath and you will never know until its too late. With a clearcoat you can tell if there is any rust forming and do something about it early.

Here in NM we don't even have to paint a car if we don't want to - they rarely rust either way. As long as they are inside, bare engine blocks can, and do sit for 25 years with no hint of rust forming on anything. That's not how it works for you in NC.

 

[mccance]

Here in NM we don't even have to paint a car if we don't want to - they rarely rust either way. As long as they are inside, bare engine blocks can, and do sit for 25 years with no hint of rust forming on anything. That's not how it works for you in NC.[/QUOTE]

I moved to iowa from utah and I think I am starting to rust. it seems like it is always damp here. :hihi::hihi: but you made some good points and although the main reason I chose to clearcoat mine I must admit was because I like the looks of the galvanized steel I agree with you on the benefits.

 

[racin_ryan]

I replaced my tank not that long ago. Only problem I had was with the rubber "O" ring around the sending unit. Hopefully you got a new sending unit, because mine was solid rust and corrosion. Anyways, the stock "O" ring is flat, like someone cut off the end of a radiator hose. It kept twisting on me and wouldn't seal. I bought a regular "O" ring from a parts store. Good Luck.

 

[arkie 2]

I finished the tank replacement today and everything is tight and dry. Thanks for all the tips! I knew there was a reason I joined this forum!