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blue88

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi, i just bought a 1988 mustang gt :happyhapp I was wondering if there are any issues to be on the lookout for with these cars. Also, what type of oil would be best to run? the car only has 76,000 miles on it. thanks in advance for the info.
 
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fog light wiring is too small and can burn up if you run your fog lights often...or even sometimes...

I'm gonna pretend I'm psychic and say Reggie is going to recommend Mobile 1 for the oil lol, least i think i remembered that correctly
 
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fog light wiring is too small and can burn up if you run your fog lights often...or even sometimes...

I'm gonna pretend I'm psychic and say Reggie is going to recommend Mobile 1 for the oil lol, least i think i remembered that correctly
No you are not psychic

Psychotic maybe.....:D

Well you were half right i will recommend Royal Purple......

One common problem are torque box tearing/rip failure

But its an easy repair......:bigthumbsup
 
The headlight switch gets overheated from the amp draw by the foglights, causing it to burn the wires and melt the headlight switch. This requires outright replacement of the switch and portions of the wires.

The turn signal arm tends to die after approximately 14-17 years of service, due to it maintaining 4 circuits. The wiper, flash-to-pass, bright lights, and turn signals. If this arm is failing, you'll start having issues with any of these 4 systems and the only cure is to replace it. That arm for a 1988 is usually $110-$120.

Headlight lenses tend to cloud up and turn yellow. This is unavoidable, and you can polish them clear again if it's not bad but if they're hazed and actually cutting down on visible light they emit, then new lenses are needed.

If it's a hatchback, they tend to require slamming to get it to close. Hopefully you'll be lucky and be one of the few that doesn't have to slam your hatch.
 
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+3 on the headlight switch, rewire. Beware the boxes, if not already destroyed add some subframes. Replace your door king pins. Beware the dimmer switch it will cause the dash lights to quit. Also, 76,000 miles is low, change all fluids to prolong the life of your car.
 
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Has everyone forgot the most obvious thing to look out for? Once you do one upgrade, it's all downhill from there, it will be more, more, more....:laugh:
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
thanks guys. no, unfortunately i do have to slam my hatch. the car wasnt really taken care of (ive got some body work and paint to get done) so im surprised i dont have any of the other problems your listing. however. today i drove it and when i got home i couldnt get out of my door with the inside handle. not looking forward to taken that door panel off, the previous owner already cracked the other one taken it off.
 
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The fuel line also goes by the cigarette lighter, so be careful...





Just kidding. :laugh: I used mobil 1 sythentic and it's good. Next time, I'm trying royal purple 10w-30. Oh and motorcraft 42cc copper plugs are one of the best when it comes to 5.0 mustangs. Don't get platinum.
 
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Beware of wiring Snafu's period. Hacked up mustangs are everywhere.
You're not lying there. I seem to have one of the most hacked up mustangs I've ever seen/heard about. I'm slowly but surely putting it back right. I've removed literally 3 lbs of wiring already that the PO just ran for what looks like no reason.

thanks guys. no, unfortunately i do have to slam my hatch. the car wasnt really taken care of (ive got some body work and paint to get done) so im surprised i dont have any of the other problems your listing. however. today i drove it and when i got home i couldnt get out of my door with the inside handle. not looking forward to taken that door panel off, the previous owner already cracked the other one taken it off.
most likely the rod that operates the latch inside the door is off, from either the door handle itself or the latch mechanism inside the door. Its not overly difficult to get the door panel off.

One screw for the side mirror cover.

One screw for the switch panel in the door pull

Two screws for the switch panel switch assembly

Two Long screws for the door pull

Two 10mm (or atleast mine were) bolts in the door pull.

After that using a $3.00 tool from any auto parts store (looks like a bent splayed face flat screwdriver) begin to remove the panel itself. When its loose lift it off the door by pulling up to free it.

After that simply remove the weather guard (if still in place) and volia' access to the inside of the door.

Am I missing anything?
 
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You're not lying there. I seem to have one of the most hacked up mustangs I've ever seen/heard about. I'm slowly but surely putting it back right. I've removed literally 3 lbs of wiring already that the PO just ran for what looks like no reason.



most likely the rod that operates the latch inside the door is off, from either the door handle itself or the latch mechanism inside the door. Its not overly difficult to get the door panel off.

One screw for the side mirror cover.

One screw for the switch panel in the door pull

Two screws for the switch panel switch assembly

Two Long screws for the door pull

Two 10mm (or atleast mine were) bolts in the door pull.

After that using a $3.00 tool from any auto parts store (looks like a bent splayed face flat screwdriver) begin to remove the panel itself. When its loose lift it off the door by pulling up to free it.

After that simply remove the weather guard (if still in place) and volia' access to the inside of the door.

Am I missing anything?
Na that's everything. I found with my fox body that the passenger door wasn't opening but the handle still had resistance. Found out that the rod was bent just enough so it wouldn't disengage the latching mechanism. So I just bent it straight and haven't have a problem since. Hope this helps
 
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Those door handles are common as well, both the inside and outside tend to break. Should you replace the outer, you can replace the lousy plastic with metal.
 
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Discussion starter · #14 ·
thanks guys. im hoping to take it through inspection wednesday and get it tagged. gotta fix the horn first though. also, do you know where to buy a replacement door panel? passenger side. or a pair, doesnt really matter. does anyone make new ones?
 
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Be sure to check out Late Model Restoration for your door panels.
 
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As for your oil, 10W-30 was usually factory fill. Depending on your location, and if the 5.0 uses or leaks any, should be the deciding factor if you plan on going with a heavier weight. As suggested, go with a quality synthetic; Royal Purple, Redline, or Mobil 1. :bigthumbsup
 
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Those door handles are common as well, both the inside and outside tend to break. Should you replace the outer, you can replace the lousy plastic with metal.

Yeah the plastic ones suck. Crown Vic door handles are the same as the Mustang ones and they are all metal that I've found. (the outside handles that is)
 
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Nothing ever goes wrong with the 1988's...if it ever does, my buddies tell me its operator error.....:gringreen.
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
one more thing, do you guys recomend running 91 (or 93 around here mostly) or sticking with 87? i havent noticed any pinging but ive also never heard anything negative about running high-test
 
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one more thing, do you guys recomend running 91 (or 93 around here mostly) or sticking with 87? i havent noticed any pinging but ive also never heard anything negative about running high-test
if it runs on 87 without pinging keep using it....

no need for anything more
 
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