Ford Mustang Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

pkehne

· Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Reaction score
0
Location
New Windsor
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I have a 2007 Mustang GT with a Whipple 550 supercharger. I also have a stock clutch that just can't take it... The clutch gives at anything over about two-thirds throttle. I would like to upgrade the clutch with a large factor of safety (700+ ft./lbs.), but given this my everyday driver (only 14 mile round-trip to work) I would still like to have something that has good drivability on the street. I have been looking at the SPEC stage 3 and 3+ clutches and would like to get some feedback. I want something that grabs at full throttle, but that is also fairly drivable in mild traffic... basically I want some play in the clutch pedal between fully engaged and disengaged. I would love to here everyone's opinion on these two clutches and am certainly open to suggestions for any other clutch manufacturers.

Thanks everyone in advance!
 
I haven't ever driven a car with a SPEC clutch but I have heard from multiple people they are "ON" or "OFF" and there isn't much play in between. From what you are stating it doesn't sound like a SPEC is what you are looking for. There are plenty of people that have SPEC and love them....hopefully some SPEC owners will chime in to give you a better idea.
 
Perhaps a dual clutch?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the insight Stella09... It definitely sounds like it was a good idea to look further into this instead of shelling out the cash right away. Hopefully, some SPEC-owners will be able to elaborate on their experiences as you said.

Thanks!
 
This outfit that I have been buying clutches from these guys for 30+ years is family owned and have used their clutches in many applications from Hot Rods, work trucks & racing applications. Just tell them of any concerns, what you have, etc and they will discuss with you what their recommendations are...I can honestly state that I have never had and issue with anything I have every purchased from them and it always works the 1st time- just like it is suppose to! They typically cost less than most of the competitors, provide 24 hour turn-around and the assemblies always work (literally) just exactly the way they should....I just can't say enough about these guys. Just tell them what you have, how you use it and any concerns/issues.

Clutchmasters
267 E. Valley Blvd.
Rialto, CA
909-877-6800

I am also not a fan of most of the "mail order" clutch guru's for street use vehicles and that includes McLeod, etc. A good local clutch rebuilder is best to purchase from.....in most cases they have access to the same or better components, have direct experience with the vehicle you specifically have, have direct knowledge of general drivetrain/chassis issues, are faster and cheaper than most of the oem replacement units.
Well, let me tell you about the last McCleod clutch "kit" that I bought..........
The vehicle it was going in was modified, cam, etc....just a real nice street engine- all newly rebuilt. Now, McCleod who I purchased this directly from (and I'm showing my age now), knew exactly what the vehicle was & its intended use.....I received my clutch a few days later.....(I'm in SoCal), with a note...don't downshift with this clutch it will cause pre-mature wear.

You have to be kidding me...I lived in the San Bernardino Mountains! I called them and basically they advised that warning was only for racing applications (what the ?)

Within 6 months, this custom built heavy duty clutch required re-adjustment monthly, & was completely worn out....pressure plate springs were weak (2 had completely failed to the point you could press them down by hand), the disc was worn & the diaphragm springs failed causing the disc to begin to warp........this was on a new, hand built engine.....which and was during the initial break in so it was not abused!

I replaced it with a unit from Clutchmasters......never an issue, nor on the other 6+ vehicles I have used them in.

Hays used to build nice clutches but was sold to a fortune 500 about 10+ years ago. Centerforce was also known for quality products.

Others input on McLeod

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...angs.com/forums/2005-2010-mustang-gt-tech/733178-how-long-does-clutch-last.html
AlloyPony
My dad and I put a McLeod clutch in his '03 Terminator this summer at the advice of the local dyno shop. His car makes around 500 at the rear tires. They told him the twin disc McLeod was the best thing he could buy. Said that they are expensive...but you get what you pay for.

So, he threw down the coin for the McLeod and we put it in. Pedal felt awesome and car drove great. FIRST trip out to the cruise in on Saturday night the car smoked the clutch. Smoked it so bad that he couldn't even drive it home. Took it back out and went down to the shop and of course they wouldn't stand behind it. But the guy pointed at the discs and said "there's your problem". The McLeod had "Made in China" stamped on the friction discs.

So...long story short he paid to have the discs re-lined with quality American made Kevlar friction material and the car has been fine ever since. But I seriously doubt he'll buy another McLeod clutch ever again. Or listen to hear-say about performance parts ever again for that matter. Lol. That was a very expensive lesson.

I think the clutch that came out of the car was a Centerforce clutch. It had been in there for a long time...like 3 or 4 years of being beaten on.

McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch Heads Up - The Mustang Collective Forums

Nice Pony
McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch started dragging after a couple of weeks. Called McLeod, after determining that indeed the clutch was dragging Lee said to pull it, send the whole assembly including the flywheel to him and he would fix it and make sure it worked properly. He also noted to us that the two disks are different thickness and on a rare occasions his supplier of the discs has shipped the wrong sizes. When we pulled the clutch and it was right away obvious, three nuts on studs that hold the floater plate to the adapter plate installed at the factory and there is no mention of torqueing them, removing them or anything at all in the installation manual. They all three had back off so obviously they had not been tightened at the factory. Installation instructions on the McLeod web site that were different then what shipped with the clutch. On the web site it states to torque the three floater plate nuts to 25ft-lbs and use Red Locktite on them which obviously never had been done at the factory. The floater plate was burned a little so we sent the entire assembly to Lee to refresh it.

After getting the clutch rebuilt and re-installed, the same issue persists. The clutch will not dissengage properly if you come to a stop with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal depressed. It also has a rougher than average engagement from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd for the TR6060. It doesnt happen every time, but probably 50% of the time. After taking the transmission out for the third time in 2 months, I have to give up on this clutch.

05MoneyPit

Got the same clutch in my car but I'm running a TKO600. Engagement is solid and brutal but shifting it is a PITA. Mike PowerHouse411 fought with it also when they did the engine rebuild. Tried different T/O spacing set-ups and now have a steel line from the master but it still isn't smooth. I just can't hit 2nd and 3rd like I think I should be able to. Sent the unit back to McLeod once, they re-built it and it was better for a while but has never been perfect.
 
For what it is worth, I have done quite a bit of looking around the past year, and many people on the forums have recommended Exedy clutches for the S197 Mustangs.

I haven't had experience with their clutch yet, but I am looking to install their Mach 400 stage 2 clutch with their lightened steel flywheel in the next month or two.

For your application, you may look into their stage 3 or higher clutch kits. American Muscle has their kits listed:
Exedy Mustang Clutches & Flywheels | AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
 
Hello All,

I have a 2007 Mustang GT with a Whipple 550 supercharger. I also have a stock clutch that just can't take it... The clutch gives at anything over about two-thirds throttle. I would like to upgrade the clutch with a large factor of safety (700+ ft./lbs.), but given this my everyday driver (only 14 mile round-trip to work) I would still like to have something that has good drivability on the street. I have been looking at the SPEC stage 3 and 3+ clutches and would like to get some feedback. I want something that grabs at full throttle, but that is also fairly drivable in mild traffic... basically I want some play in the clutch pedal between fully engaged and disengaged. I would love to here everyone's opinion on these two clutches and am certainly open to suggestions for any other clutch manufacturers.

Thanks everyone in advance!
Hey OP-Welcome.

Good question and for the power that you're producing I would recommend Exedy's Mach 500 Clutch which is rated for over 622 ft-lbs of tq-I'm shooting for the high side on this as if you're going to have the car dyno tuned in the future or have it tweaked further to yield any more increase you can grow into this.

I've had the pleasure of romping on our '06 that's running Vortech's V3 (Grabber Boost VS. Grabber Coyote--Look for me in the Coyote Video!) and despite making substantially less power than your Whipple we're using this same clutch. In comparison to my '08 Bullitt the feel is really similar/ Granted it will be somewhat different it's not like it's a 6 Puck Clutch and feels like you're doing a 30lb leg press.

Definitely a solid setup for the money and I highly recommend it. Let me know if you have any other questions at all and I'm here to help!

Alex
 
Just don't get a McLeod. Made in China, over priced, and didn't last a single night in my father's 2003 Cobra. The friction disks in those kits are garbage.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
AlloyPony, that seems to be a reoccurring theme...

After much research, I am really leaning toward the Exedy Mach 500 Stage 2. I have seen the most positive reviews for this clutch and received nothing but good feedback from car owners with this clutch as well.

As I get closer to making my decision, can anyone tell me what all should be involved with a clutch upgrade of this magnitude? Will I need to upgrade hydraulic lines, slave cylinder, flywheel (new or resurface?),...? I just want to make sure that everything gets upgraded that will need it so I don't have to take everything apart again for repair of insufficient parts.

Thoughts?
 
Definitely a new slave cylinder. Exedy makes their own which is supposed to be better than the factory one: Exedy Mustang Hydraulic Throwout Bearing/Slave Cylinder BRG0159 (05-10 GT, V6) - Free Shipping

Also, for a few bucks a new pilot bearing is a no-brainer to get. Well, worth the piece of mind.

You may consider getting upgraded bolts for the flywheel to hold up to the extra power. ARP makes a nice looking set: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-254-2801

As for the flywheel, well that is going to be tough. I know my flyweel is going to have heat checks from the chattering I get from time to time. So that will either be a turning of the stock flywheel or a new one. I am really eyeing Exedy's lightened steel flywheel as it is robust, helps cool the clutch, and is made to fit the Exedy clutches.
Exedy Lightweight Racing Mustang Flywheel - 6 Bolt EF503 (96-98 GT; Late 01-10 GT) - Free Shipping
EXEDY Flywheels | Chromoly Lightweight
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thanks again for the recommendations SVT Rider.

I have seen some (people trying to sell me things) saying that they recommend upgrading the clutch fluid line to accommodate the higher hydraulic pressure with a performance clutch. The heavy duty line is $230 or else I would just say heck with it and replace it anyway... Do you happen to know whether this is actually necessary?
 
Unfortunately, I can't really say if an upgraded clutch line is absolutely necessary. It will help, I can tell you that. As you get a beefier clutch with more spring pressure behind the plate, you will be exerting more force to pull the clutch away, thus creating more heat in the brake fluid. The heat will cause fade in the clutch and the clutch line from the master cylinder down to the slave cylinder may bulge.

A fair writup can be had here (mind you he is coming from a slightly bias viewpoint with his "website and all"): http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...rums/2005-2010-mustang-gt-tech/196347-clutch-adjustment-manual.html#post1721746

Eventually I would like to get one of the Ford Racing lines for mine just for the piece of mind and potentially a little more positive feel to the clutch pedal.

It is your call here.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
The explanations in that thread makes a lot of sense... I am not planning on running my car at the track very much (maybe a few trips to the strip a year), so I don't think my clutch will see the abuse that he is describing very often. I believe I may just meet in the middle and upgrade the stock line to stainless steel braided line for my application. It will be much better that the stock plastic, but about $200 cheaper than the heavy duty hard line like the Ford Racing line you provided a link to. However, if this ever becomes a weekend warrior at the track at some point I will definitely upgrade to the hard line.

Thanks again for the valuable info!
 
Hello All,

I would still like to have something that has good drivability on the street. I have been looking at the SPEC stage 3 and 3+ clutches and would like to get some feedback.

Whatup man. I put a spec stage 3 on my 06 GT after my stock one gave out... I wanted a stage 2 but my mechanic said "they only have stage 3 available." So i said whatever and threw that on my daily driver. (only making 290rwhp)

Every once in a while it makes a high pitched squeak, normally when its cold or i first start driving it. Also when the clutch is disengaged it sounds like its rubbing on something. IDK if thats normal for a stage 3??

Theres about an inch or two of play in the clutch at the very top...so its a little jumpy for a daily driver.(which you should expect) IN my opinion a stage 3 clutch is fine but i wouldn't go with a SPEC from my experience with it. Hope this helps! Good luck!
 
I haven't ever driven a car with a SPEC clutch but I have heard from multiple people they are "ON" or "OFF" and there isn't much play in between. From what you are stating it doesn't sound like a SPEC is what you are looking for. There are plenty of people that have SPEC and love them....hopefully some SPEC owners will chime in to give you a better idea.
I have a SPEC 3+ in my car and that is not true. It is not as sloppy and loose like the stock clutch, so there is less play between grabbing and off but driveability is fine. A couple of weeks driving it and you won't even notice. My understanding is that the + is more driveable/streetable than the non+.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts