[Callbald]

Hi recently bought beautiful 65 6 cyl, automatic. It runs great until it gets thoroughly warmed up and then it changes. It won't hardly idle, stalls on take off and under 25 runs VERY herky jerky. At highway speed runs fine. Checked the plugs, found they are ok. Smell gas after shut down.

I just received a carb rebuild kit for the Autolite 1100 carb.from Mikes. NOW doing my research, I see the engine design is problematic with the Carb/Intake directly above the exhaust manifold. In addition to the carb rebuild, would installing an insulated header be a solution to the heat problem??

 

[crjackson]

Welcome Callbald, and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
Please read the Site Rules if you haven’t already.
We encourage you to complete your Account Settings.

We’re glad you have chosen to be a part of our community and we hope you enjoy your stay.

 

[Grimbrand]

Callbald, there are also some really good ceramic coatings that can be used inside and outside the manifold to help with that. Alcohol is a terrible additive for carburetors for many reasons, and its eagerness to boil is one of them! Running straight unleaded gas, if it's available, will help a little.

A phenolic spacer can also be of assistance. Pretty much anything you do that cools the fuel line or keeps the carb cooler will help with this.

Best wishes, and welcome to AFM!

 

[rickyracer1983]

Hi recently bought beautiful 65 6 cyl, automatic. It runs great until it gets thoroughly warmed up and then it changes. It won't hardly idle, stalls on take off and under 25 runs VERY herky jerky. At highway speed runs fine. Checked the plugs, found they are ok. Smell gas after shut down.
I just received a carb rebuild kit for the Autolite 1100 carb.from Mikes. NOW doing my research, I see the engine design is problematic with the Carb/Intake directly above the exhaust manifold. In addition to the carb rebuild, would installing an insulated header be a solution to the heat problem??

Just have the old one coated as stated. That and a heat shield plate under the carb to get the exhaust manifold heat away from the carb. Also make sure you don't have any fuel lines running close to the exhaust manifold.

 

[Callbald]

The carburetor on my 65 Mustang 200 CI 6 cylinder does not have a tag number. The housing is stamped C3YF A. This number to me say 1963 application but for what not sure. Appreciate feedback, thanks

Also:
Where is the best place to buy and A1100 carburetor. The abused carburetor I have cannot be rebuilt.
Ever since I got the car a month ago, it ran great until it really heated up. Then unless you feathered the gas, the car bucked and would conk out when given too much gas. Thanks Rob

 

[Cobrajet67]

Without the original tag there's a very limited amount that can be certain about it. You can usually figure out within a few years when it was produced if a professional carb rebuilder looks at it based on subtle design differences. However, without the original tag it could have come from one of many different cars.
The C3 engineering code is probably for a 1963/64 production year but it's possible that if the carb body went unchanged for 1965 that it's also off a car from then too. I guess there's a chance that it's original to the car but I don't think there's a way to tell for sure.
Maybe post a couple of pics of it.

 

[07redstang]

Ever since I got the car a month ago, it ran great until it really heated up. Then unless you feathered the gas, the car bucked and would conk out when given too much gas.

Sounds like a faulty accelerator pump. Why can't your carb be rebuilt?

 

[Callbald]

Turns out is is missing vent tube & spring + that vent hole and another were hammered/epoxied shut

 

[Yadkin]

Where is the best place to buy and A1100 carburetor.

Amazon.com : autolite 1100 carburetor

 

[Callbald]

anyone have OD for the choke tube

Just received a A1100 carb from one of the ebay suppliers. I cannot get the choke tube to slide into the hole for choke tube fitting. because the hole ID is too small and no chamfer for the ferrule. Looks like I need to drill out the hole.
There are so many thing that have been jury rigged on this vehicleI have no idea what is correct. I am working my way through the maze. It's a jewel on top and crap below.

Thanks Rob

 

[crjackson]

Yep, looks like you need to drag out the drill and go to work.

 

[Lime1GT]

I think the tubing is right. This video at 1:03 minute shows what the carb end should look like.

 

[Grimbrand]

If you have the original spark control system, be sure to pay special attention to the SCV on the side of the carb. Without the 'weirdo' vacuum spark advance stuff, your engine's original distributor won't work right.

Frankly, the load-o-matic system is kind of a junky setup anyway IMHO.

If you can't easily and cheaply get a carb that has the spark control valve, I suggest you get a newer style distributor with simple vacuum advance. It works better. It would maybe cost you a couple points in a car show if they want a concourse restoration, but otherwise doesn't really look much different.

Just to restate very simply, in case you're not familiar with this stuff: early 6 cyl mustangs have a weird vacuum operated spark control system. The carb is one part with a "Spark Control Valve" and the distributor has a corresponding setup that is not like a normal vacuum advance - although it looks similar. You cannot run an engine with just one part of that system. You either have to have both of them set up for the load-o-matic spark advance, or neither, in order for it to work properly.

 

[Callbald]

Well, I have been working to get the replacement carb working andAit would not work. Then an ah ha moment!! Maybe the carb is not the problem... Found distributor vacuum line was as just stuck into the distributor with wrong fitting and adding a correct tube fitting fixed that leak. The manifold tube was cracked at the casting -- new tube fixed that and the transmission line was split -fixed that. Now the engine is running like it should. Who would dream that many things were screwed up.