[145566]

I just ordered a Yukon rear diff and axle kit for my '95 and now I need to figure out what to do abut the ABS reluctors. Do y'all think the oem ones will fit? If no, what are my options? Having no ABS is a deal breaker. Am I going to have to jury rig this thing to make it work? That'd be the pits. They have to be pressed on correct?
I emailed cj pony (where I bought it) asking them if oem rings would work, so we'll see what they say.
Yukon has a ring that I think it says it's compatible with 28 and 31 spline and it lists the tooth count and diameter. Does anyone know how many teeth a stock one has?
I also need wheel studs. What size do I need? I have 17x9 03 Cobra replicas if that matters.
I hope this "kit" doesn't turn out to be a bigger hassle than what it's worth. Do y'all think I'm in for some BS to where it'd be worth it to return the kit and just buy a 28 spline differential?
Here's what I'm working with:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/rear-ax...t-with-yukon-dura-grip-positraction-31-spline-5-lug-8-8-inch-1994-1998/p/RAK14/

https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=1888

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-rear-abs-reluctor-ring-1994-2004/p/ABSR1/
Any and all help is much appreciated. I'm stressing thinking about dollar signs going up and up, I'm paying labor.

 

[145566]

Do y'all think these are the same shafts that they sell with the kit?
The kit is listed for 94-98 models, but these shafts are listed for '99-'04.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/yukon-rear-axle-shaft-31-spline-5-lug-without-abs-ring-1999-2004/p/RA30/
I went in for a clutch job and now I'm spending money out the rear....

 

[145566]

Welcome back from the commercial break.
I went back and looked at Yukon's site and the part number for the ring is the same for 28 and 31 spline, so that's good I guess. I'm thinking going with the Ford OEM from cj's is the way to go vs trying to reuse the old ones.
Off to search for some studs.
Will the lug nuts that come with the 03 Cobra wheels fit on 2.5" studs?
Having to buy open lug nuts would stink.
https://lmr.com/item/ST-0147703-K/Arp-25-Inch-Wheel-Stud-Kit

Or better yet, I wonder if these $11 per axle stock replacement will work with the Yukon?
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-1107A5K/1979-04-Mustang-5pc-Rear-Wheel-Stud-Kit

 

[Urambo Tauro]

Yeah, the ABS ring presses onto the shaft, so it's important that it be the right size. Since Yukon claims that their ring fits both 28- and 31-spline versions, and there aren't have any warnings against using them on OE axles, I think it's safe to say that axle-shafts are all manufactured to the same OE dimensions. The description for Yukon's standalone axle-shafts claims that despite not having ABS rings, it "fits ABS applications", so I don't think they tried to increase shaft strength by having a bigger shaft diameter.

Not sure about the lug studs. The stock ones might be all you need, unless you're running wheel spacers.

 

[145566]

Yeah, the ABS ring presses onto the shaft, so it's important that it be the right size. Since Yukon claims that their ring fits both 28- and 31-spline versions, and there aren't have any warnings against using them on OE axles, I think it's safe to say that axle-shafts are all manufactured to the same OE dimensions. The description for Yukon's standalone axle-shafts claims that despite not having ABS rings, it "fits ABS applications", so I don't think they tried to increase shaft strength by having a bigger shaft diameter.

Not sure about the lug studs. The stock ones might be all you need, unless you're running wheel spacers.

Yeah I think you're right. I called Cj pony and they didn't know, they just read me the part description. But I called Randy's ring ans pionion who sells the same kit, and he says the stock ones should work. He also says their kit comes w studs but I'm cj pony doesn't list them. However I think the oem will work like you said.
So I guess it'd be wise to have some new rings on hand so I can have them pressed onto the new shaft before I take 'em out to the dude.
Thanks
Man
This clutch job turned into an expensive venture. I sure hope it goes faster down the track with a new clutch and a rebuilt rear end. Surely/hopefully it'll make a noticeable difference. I lose all my races off of the starting line. It's either a bog, a massive two to three shift burnout, or I drive it out of the hole and then get on it.

 

[Urambo Tauro]

Eh, I wouldn't expect it to make you faster, unless the car was doing the one-wheel peel. If that clicking you heard turns out to be from worn-out spiders or bearings, then you can at least take comfort in the fact that you caught it before the diff grenaded. At any rate, all this work ought to help freshen up the axle so that it will last for many miles to come.

 

[145566]

Eh, I wouldn't expect it to make you faster, unless the car was doing the one-wheel peel. If that clicking you heard turns out to be from worn-out spiders or bearings, then you can at least take comfort in the fact that you caught it before the diff grenaded. At any rate, all this work ought to help freshen up the axle so that it will last for many miles to come.

Surely a better 60' time will come out of the deal if I'm not having to ride the clutch so hard. My best pass was a high 8 in the 1/8. But each time I went out it seemed to get slower and slower and I never back down in the 8's.
The majority of my passes have been "dead runs." I'd mess up the launch, and just Coast on in.
I think the only time I got it to "hook" was when I was able to get the 8.9, and that was at a fairly low rpm. If I ride the clutch and drive it out of the hole it'll do a 9.1 or so. But the mph are always around 80 mph. I think it was 82 when I did the 8.9. I need tires.
I have 3.73's and I'm not a huge fan of them. I wonder if I'd be much slower with a 3.27? I wonder would it be faster since I wouldn't roast the tires? Boost comes on at 3k rpm and I'm shifting into 2nd in the before the first 60' I think. First is over real fast and I'm barely moving. I cross the finish line in the 1/8 redlining 3rd shifting to 4th.
I tried starting in 2nd once. I revved it up into "boost" and launched like that. It was easier to get off of the line, the e/t went down but the mph went up a little from runs in the same evening.
I don't suppose 3.55's would be worth spending money on huh? Would first be about as short as it is now, and hwy cruising rpm would still be annoyingly high? I've played with the gear calcs way back when, and it seems like I remember only a few hundred rpm difference. I'm not sure I'd notice 200 rpm.
Anyone want to trade a set of gently used 3.73's for a gently used 3.55?