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Sinolius

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
The other day the bottom radiator hose ruptured so I replaced it and only filled it with water since I couldn't afford coolant at the time. The next day around 4pm I noticed that the temp gauge started to rise past the 2/3's. I waited until it hit the A in "normal" before I decided enough was enough and cut the engine. I checked it out and I can only assume that the water was boiling. I gave it time to cool and drove it at night to see if the issue persisted during the cooler part of the day, which it did. After thorough researching and looking through my Chilton manual I decided to start troubleshooting.

I replaced the water in my radiator with coolant and water (obviously 50/50), rust was in the water (radiator clogged?). The cooling fan runs the moment I start up the engine even after it has had 2 hours of being off (I assume because it is an electric fan that it does that, but Chilton says that it should start up when the engine heats up past 200F). When I drive it for a bit and kill the engine the radiator cap hisses and the overflow tank shakes even though I replaced it with the proper liquids so I'm going to assume it isn't boiling (purging air out of system?). AC being on or off does not affect the engine temp. Hoses are in good condition, no leaks are visible and no off sounds from engine. Radiator is a keystone radiator (I know their products suck in comparison to true manufacturer's). As of now the engine temp is always riding the A in "normal" and goes up to just infront of the bracket and after the L. I know for a fact it isn't the outside temp affecting it because my baby has been through numerous Vegas summers and has never had this issue. I change fluids and all the things that come with caring for a car when they should be done. The water pump was replace not too long ago (rust affected water pump?).

After all my researching I want to say my problem is that the radiator is clogged or blocked, the coolant fan isn't working properly, rad cap isn't maintaining proper pressure or the water pump is defective. I want to fix this problem before it escalates into the extremes.

This is my first car, my baby, and I want to keep her forever. Unlike most Americans I believe in fixing things that are broken, not to throw them away and just get something new in it's place. I have major plans for this car, but in the meantime I just want to get her in great condition until I can make her the beast she was meant to be. She is my pride and joy and she has come a LOOOONG way since I bought her from her previous owners.

Please, help me allfordmustangs subscribers, you're my only hope... Since mechanics are the 9th most untrusted profession across the US and I am a do-it-yourselfer.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
No... I later found out through more of my own inspecting that I didn't fill it with enough liquid (yes, coolant and water). Felt like a COMPLETE tard that I overlooked something so simple as though it were something that was more complicated.
 
well theres that rust or brownish in the system because the water turned into steam and created very very very very slight surface rust inside the engine. because we all know metal rusts when water comes in to contact with it. id flush the system. but its going to be hard to get it all out.
 
well theres that rust or brownish in the system because the water turned into steam and created very very very very slight surface rust inside the engine. because we all know metal rusts when water comes in to contact with it. id flush the system. but its going to be hard to get it all out.

Um, no.

THere is rust in the system because it was not maintained properly and the coolant broke down. This is what helped the hose die and will likely cause the engine to have head gasket/intake leaking issues in the near future.
 
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