Can anyone tell me how they were able to tune the Anderson N41 camshaft to a 94-95 Mustang computer. Just re-done my engine, & installed this camshaft. Now the car cannot be driven without being under a pull/load unless it bucks. The tuner that tune it, works on Fords only, and informed me that the 94-95 Mustang is the worst to tune, and that this type camshaft is not really a good fit for the ECU in those years. Has anyone been able to overcome this? If so, how, and how costly/hard was it? Really like the camshaft sound, but if cannot drive the car in town, or let it coast then I am going to pull it I guess. Thanks!
Anderson N41 Camshaft in a 95 Cobra
DDunn
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Can anyone tell me how they were able to tune the Anderson N41 camshaft to a 94-95 Mustang computer. Just re-done my engine, & installed this camshaft. Now the car cannot be driven without being under a pull/load unless it bucks. The tuner that tune it, works on Fords only, and informed me that the 94-95 Mustang is the worst to tune, and that this type camshaft is not really a good fit for the ECU in those years. Has anyone been able to overcome this? If so, how, and how costly/hard was it? Really like the camshaft sound, but if cannot drive the car in town, or let it coast then I am going to pull it I guess. Thanks!
Here's what I found with a quick search of the cam specs..... they may not be accurate for your engine but close enough for a brief discussion.....
Advertised Duration Intake:278 / Exhaust: 286
Duration at .050 - In:222 / Ex:230
Timing events at .050 - In: 1/41 Ex: 45/5
Lobe Lift @ Cam - In:.320 / Ex:.320
Gross valve lift w/ 1.6 - In:.512 / Ex:.512
Lobe Separation 110
Degree intake lobe to 106
The rpm band on this cam is 2600-6200 which is starting to get high for a street car (meaning power is starting at 2600)... this really means you either need lower gears or a higher stall torque converter.... and with a lobe separation of 110 degrees, it's going to have a bit of a rough idle meaning the idle speed is going to have to be raised (likely 800 rpm+) and I'm betting one step up in injectors as well.... all of which would explain the "bog" unless you have it floored or near to it. Can the fuel/ignition be tuned to make it run much better...you bet, will it be comfortable to drive on the street, barely, but IMHO it s doable, just need the right parts and someone who is willing to spend the time.....
Advertised Duration Intake:278 / Exhaust: 286
Duration at .050 - In:222 / Ex:230
Timing events at .050 - In: 1/41 Ex: 45/5
Lobe Lift @ Cam - In:.320 / Ex:.320
Gross valve lift w/ 1.6 - In:.512 / Ex:.512
Lobe Separation 110
Degree intake lobe to 106
The rpm band on this cam is 2600-6200 which is starting to get high for a street car (meaning power is starting at 2600)... this really means you either need lower gears or a higher stall torque converter.... and with a lobe separation of 110 degrees, it's going to have a bit of a rough idle meaning the idle speed is going to have to be raised (likely 800 rpm+) and I'm betting one step up in injectors as well.... all of which would explain the "bog" unless you have it floored or near to it. Can the fuel/ignition be tuned to make it run much better...you bet, will it be comfortable to drive on the street, barely, but IMHO it s doable, just need the right parts and someone who is willing to spend the time.....
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Auto or manual? What rear gear do you have?
I have a Comp cam in my ‘95 GT that has similar specs as yours (I’ll list the specs below). In Comps description they state “needs stall.” Mine is a manual and when I first had the engine rebuilt with that cam (and tuned) I had 2.73 gears in the rear and it would buck and chug at parking lot speeds. I switched to a 3.73 gear (same tune) and the low speed buck and chug was gone. I’ve since switched to a 3.31 and it’s still cruises in the parking lots easy enough but I have to ride the clutch now and again but it’s nowhere near as cruddy to drive at slow speeds as it was with the 2.73.
Advertised Intake Duration: 281
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 281
Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 220
Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 220
Intake Valve Lift: 0.512
Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.512
Lobe Separation: 110
Assembly Lubricant Included: No
Intake Centerline: 106
Lobe Lift Intake: 0.32
Lobe Lift Exhaust: 0.32
www.compcams.com
I have a Comp cam in my ‘95 GT that has similar specs as yours (I’ll list the specs below). In Comps description they state “needs stall.” Mine is a manual and when I first had the engine rebuilt with that cam (and tuned) I had 2.73 gears in the rear and it would buck and chug at parking lot speeds. I switched to a 3.73 gear (same tune) and the low speed buck and chug was gone. I’ve since switched to a 3.31 and it’s still cruises in the parking lots easy enough but I have to ride the clutch now and again but it’s nowhere near as cruddy to drive at slow speeds as it was with the 2.73.
Advertised Intake Duration: 281
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 281
Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 220
Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 220
Intake Valve Lift: 0.512
Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.512
Lobe Separation: 110
Assembly Lubricant Included: No
Intake Centerline: 106
Lobe Lift Intake: 0.32
Lobe Lift Exhaust: 0.32
Magnum 220/220 Hydraulic Roller Cam for Ford 5.0L
HYDRAULIC ROLLER: Great in street machines. Best power above 3500 but still good torque. Mild rough idle. Largest for stock heads & intake. Needs stall.
www.compcams.com
How’d he tune it? Dyno? I was thinking about it, and when they tune on a dyno they’re just doing wide open throttle tuning really. That’s all I’ve ever seen anyway. I’ve never had a guy drive it on the rollers like he’s cruising down Main Street.
But at any rate, I bet a set of steeper gears will cure your ails. When Comp stated, “needs stall,” they were saying that it needed higher RPM’s to get moving. The steeper rear gear will do that for you in a manual.
What cylinder heads and intake?
But at any rate, I bet a set of steeper gears will cure your ails. When Comp stated, “needs stall,” they were saying that it needed higher RPM’s to get moving. The steeper rear gear will do that for you in a manual.
What cylinder heads and intake?
Sone tuners are better than others. My tuner completes the tune by driving the car around on the street, and logging to make any drivability adjustments needed before he’s done. As a matter of fact, he has the laptop hooked up in the car while driving, and pulls over to make on the spot adjustments. I’ve went with him before.
This is OBDI though homeslice. One would have to get a “piggyback ecu” like a Moates Quarter Horse and a wide band O2 to be able to data log. That or Holley’s new “super computer.” The other tuning option is dyno tuning and having a chip burned which is generally WOT pulls. But I believe the OBDI tuners, the humans and the devices, are going by the wayside.
Mea culpa
Yeah, I missed that part. I was primarily focused on tune shops. To be sure though, some shops tuning cars with OBDII also don’t check drivability Either.
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So I was cruising around just looking up general info on Anderson N-41 cams and tuning ect in the process of dialing in my own tune some more. Came across your post and this is what I can tell you after running the cam for the better part of 10 years at this point.
I run a 308 with a windsor sr head, gt40 intake, 70mm tb, 5 speed, 3.55's gears. The car would really benefit from 3.73's for this cam like Anderson recommends. I tuned around it because I do enough long distance with the car I want a few more Mpg's and opted to keep my 3.55 gear ratio. I have no bucking issues and the car has great street manners from idle (cold start) to WOT get some but it did take some time dialing it in on the low rpm end for low speed cruising. If I had the recommended gears (3.73's) I probably would not have had to make the adjustments down low like I did. If you are running factory 3.08 gears..you are going to have issues. Especially with the RPM power STARTiNG at 2600 it really doesn't come on until 3k.
Bottom line to your question, you need a different tuner. My car has never been on a dyno. Never touched by an actual tuner. I run an old school Anderson PMS that I tuned myself driving around with a wideband.
I run a 308 with a windsor sr head, gt40 intake, 70mm tb, 5 speed, 3.55's gears. The car would really benefit from 3.73's for this cam like Anderson recommends. I tuned around it because I do enough long distance with the car I want a few more Mpg's and opted to keep my 3.55 gear ratio. I have no bucking issues and the car has great street manners from idle (cold start) to WOT get some but it did take some time dialing it in on the low rpm end for low speed cruising. If I had the recommended gears (3.73's) I probably would not have had to make the adjustments down low like I did. If you are running factory 3.08 gears..you are going to have issues. Especially with the RPM power STARTiNG at 2600 it really doesn't come on until 3k.
Bottom line to your question, you need a different tuner. My car has never been on a dyno. Never touched by an actual tuner. I run an old school Anderson PMS that I tuned myself driving around with a wideband.
Ha! Not that I have ever actually built a crapload of engines and grew up with large nuts/bolts (clean) in my stroller tray when I was a baby (grin- for real)........... but I can't help but say my SWAG was right on the mark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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