[sgoldberg]

I replaced my power brake booster (I have power drums, 4 places) and unfortunately the new booster was not the same dimensions as the existing (a little longer) such that my two brake hard lines no longer mate up to the master. The alignmnet process has been trial and error for me and I cant get the larger 1/2-20 connection to line up with the hard line while installed due to the hard line, flexibility of the booster when installed thru the firewall, etc.. And it doesnt appear that the two studs coming out of the booster can be removed (unfortunately) which would allow me to connect the hard lines first and then slide the master over and up next to the booster and then install the 2 studs. I can get it together when the master is not mounted to the booster. I have been looking into using a brake flex line but the flex lines dont seem to have the standard 3/16 flared tube fitting on them and then I need the other end to have an adapter which would mate between the flex line and the female portion of 1/2-20 and 3/8-24 fittings. I cant get the other end of the line separated from the distributor valve, looks like the original connection and the nut has been rounded off quite a bit.

This would seem to work for the master cylinder end:

Early Ford Mustang Brake Line Fitting Kit | Master Cylinder Fittings

Streamline your brake system installation with LEED Brakes' Ford Mustang Brake Line Fitting Kit. This kit is specifically designed to provide all the necessary fittings for early Mustang disc brake dual bowl master cylinders, eliminating the need for constant adjustments and additional adapters.

leedbrakes.com

Any ideas? particularly for installing a flex line to mate between the two existing hard lines (with different sized flared tube fittings) and the two female master port connections.

 

[07redstang]

Why not just get the correct booster instead of trying to correct the mistake with additional ones?

 

[sgoldberg]

yeah well at this point the line has been bent so wouldnt fit that well at this time with the old one or a rebuilt one or a similar one...I thought all were created equal but I guess there is a slight difference. The previous one had a spacer between it and the master which as far as I can tell isnt normally used...so I think the one I have now is actually the right one. But now only have about 1/4" clearance between end of master and the shock tower

New one:

1967-1970 mustang 8.5 inch dual diaphragm brake booster new BENDIX style | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1967-1970 mustang 8.5 inch dual diaphragm brake booster new BENDIX style at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

nvmd gonna cut off those fittings and flare in new standard 3/16 tube fittings and then use 3/16 tube couplings and make new additional lines which will have the 1/2-20 and 3/8-24 flared adapters on them respectively to mate with the existing master cylinder

 

[Cobrajet67]

I replaced my power brake booster (I have power drums, 4 places) and unfortunately the new booster was not the same dimensions as the existing (a little longer) such that my two brake hard lines no longer mate up to the master. The alignmnet process has been trial and error for me and I cant get the larger 1/2-20 connection to line up with the hard line while installed due to the hard line, flexibility of the booster when installed thru the firewall, etc.. And it doesnt appear that the two studs coming out of the booster can be removed (unfortunately) which would allow me to connect the hard lines first and then slide the master over and up next to the booster and then install the 2 studs. I can get it together when the master is not mounted to the booster. I have been looking into using a brake flex line but the flex lines dont seem to have the standard 3/16 flared tube fitting on them and then I need the other end to have an adapter which would mate between the flex line and the female portion of 1/2-20 and 3/8-24 fittings. I cant get the other end of the line separated from the distributor valve, looks like the original connection and the nut has been rounded off quite a bit.

This would seem to work for the master cylinder end:

Early Ford Mustang Brake Line Fitting Kit | Master Cylinder Fittings

Streamline your brake system installation with LEED Brakes' Ford Mustang Brake Line Fitting Kit. This kit is specifically designed to provide all the necessary fittings for early Mustang disc brake dual bowl master cylinders, eliminating the need for constant adjustments and additional adapters.

leedbrakes.com

Any ideas? particularly for installing a flex line to mate between the two existing hard lines (with different sized flared tube fittings) and the two female master port connections.

yeah well at this point the line has been bent so wouldnt fit that well at this time with the old one or a rebuilt one or a similar one...I thought all were created equal but I guess there is a slight difference. The previous one had a spacer between it and the master which as far as I can tell isnt normally used...so I think the one I have now is actually the right one. But now only have about 1/4" clearance between end of master and the shock tower

New one:

1967-1970 mustang 8.5 inch dual diaphragm brake booster new BENDIX style | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1967-1970 mustang 8.5 inch dual diaphragm brake booster new BENDIX style at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

nvmd gonna cut off those fittings and flare in new standard 3/16 tube fittings and then use 3/16 tube couplings and make new additional lines which will have the 1/2-20 and 3/8-24 flared adapters on them respectively to mate with the existing master cylinder

Always do research first before buying parts. Aftermarket stuff is often crap quality and ill fitting. It's generally always best to just go with a rebuilt original especially when still running the stock brakes like you are.

It certainly sounds like the replacement booster that you bought is wrong. I would definitely return it and buy a correct rebuilt one or even better just send your original out to be rebuilt assuming that it's the stock Ford one.

Pictures speak a thousand words. Post pics of what you're dealing with if you need help.

 

[sgoldberg]

ok thanks. Because the previous one had a spacer between the booster and master I dont think it was the correct one. see that spacer below? the new one does not need or use that spacer. It would run into the shock tower if it did. The new one is just a bit longer than the previous one.

 

[Cobrajet67]

ok thanks. Because the previous one had a spacer between the booster and master I dont think it was the correct one. see that spacer below? the new one does not need or use that spacer. It would run into the shock tower if it did. The new one is just a bit longer than the previous one.
View attachment 797071

What year car is this?
Was it a manual or auto trans that it was originally equipped with?
You've never actually said what you're working on here. Brake parts aren't universal and different years use different boosters, master cylinders, proportioning valves, etc.

That "spacer" is there for a reason. The master cylinder and booster both have specific rods that will only work for the right years/applications.

That booster looks correct for a 1967-68 or maybe also 69 with the Midland design booster. However, that booster seems to only be used with factory disc/drum, not drum/drum like you have: John's Mustang: 1967-1969 Mustang Midland Style Brake Booster Kit - Disc/Drum (johnsmustang.com)

Idk if there's a Midland that was also for drum/drum.
Brake Booster - Midland Power Brake - Core ~ 1967 - 1969 Mercury Cougar / 1967 - 1969 Ford Mustang ( 1967 Mercury Cougar, 1968 Mercury Cougar, 1967 Ford Mustang, 1968 Ford Mustang ) at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source (cougarpartscatalog.com)

Here's a very useful video on boosters for the Mustang/Cougar:
Power Brake Boosters: 1967-1973 Cougar / Mustang - Differences, Do's & Don'ts - YouTube

Spoiler: >>>>>>>> Click here for the video <<<<<<<<

Like I said, always do thorough research and assume nothing before buying parts or thinking something is correct or not correct. Not doing so will just cost you more $, more time, and possibly result in damage to a classic car that may not be able to be fixed properly at least without a good deal of expense or effort.

You have a master cylinder with the equal size reservoirs which I think was only used thru 1967 or 1968 though that may not actually be important.

 

[sgoldberg]

yeah its a 67 and I had seen that video before. the weird thing is my new booster has the teardrop shaft (which is for 67/68) but it also has the spacer that fits against the firewall which he seems to say is for the 69. But due to my current clearance to shock tower cant use the intermediate spacer so we will see what this one does. worst comes to worst I have to get another booster.

actually he says you can put a 69 booster into a 67/68 so I think I actually have a 69 booster due to the existence of that firewall spacer

thanks for pointing this out I feel much better now. I think at some point I will have them re-build my 67 booster and hang on to the inerrmediate spacer for later use but will try and verify that the 69 will work on my 67 w/o the intermediate spacer installed I have auto transmission, 4 wheel power drum. The proportional valve is a bad design with it being brass. Can't loosen up the small brake line fittings from it at all.

wow $400 from them to re-build it. I will try to use this 69 as long as I can

 

[Cobrajet67]

yeah its a 67 and I had seen that video before. the weird thing is my new booster has the teardrop shaft (which is for 67/68) but it also has the spacer that fits against the firewall which he seems to say is for the 69. But due to my current clearance to shock tower cant use the intermediate spacer so we will see what this one does. worst comes to worst I have to get another booster.

actually he says you can put a 69 booster into a 67/68 so I think I actually have a 69 booster due to the existence of that firewall spacer

thanks for pointing this out I feel much better now. I think at some point I will have them re-build my 67 booster and hang on to the inerrmediate spacer for later use but will try and verify that the 69 will work on my 67 w/o the intermediate spacer installed I have auto transmission, 4 wheel power drum. The proportional valve is a bad design with it being brass. Can't loosen up the small brake line fittings from it at all.

wow $400 from them to re-build it. I will try to use this 69 as long as I can

All proportioning valves are bronze. Being bronze isn't the problem. It's the rusty steel lines going into them. Proportioning valves are perfectly flat so you can put a large flat jawed adjustable wrench(Crescent wrench) on them.

You'll tend to have an even worse time with wheel cylinders and calipers since they're steel lines going into cast iron which oxidizes together even worse. I found out long ago when I was a teen that a propane torch helps loosen the lines and a high quality flare nut wrench or socket(only if the line had to be cut near the nut) gives the best chance at getting them loose without rounding off the hex nut. The torch method generally isn't good for a proportioning valve because you would ruin the internals and possibly alter the bronze metallurgy if it's overheated. If it's being rebuilt then a torch can be ok but you have to be aware of the amount of heat put on it.

You can't delete spacers and think that it won't affect the master cylinder and brake pedal clearances especially with the rods. It may not even be possible to delete them, idk. I would call West Coast Classic Cougar and get their expertise on it while making sure to express interest in having your booster rebuilt by them. Be ready with a Ford Engineering # from the booster if it's an original and have pics ready to send to them too.

 

[sgoldberg]

yeah Im lucky that the 69 will fit in the 67. I have already test drove it and its doing well...Ive been w/o power for prob over 20 years. I have a small leak in the original steel line as a resulting of bending it to try and mate with my master. The new tube work (jumper) however turned out well. Im gonna try and patch the small hole/leak with permatex liquid metal filler. I dont think there's anyway Im gonna separate that line from the dist. valve, I have tried with a crescent wrench (holding the valve) with no success. Based on brake bleed experience you need 6 points of contact on that nut, simple wrench wont work. I even tried an extended length wrench. Not ready to risk cutting the line before trying the 6 point option ...yet.

Lisle 12030 Flare Nut Socket Set
I imagine they may have this in SAE I guess its 5 points of contact

 

[Cobrajet67]

yeah Im lucky that the 69 will fit in the 67. I have already test drove it and its doing well...Ive been w/o power for prob over 20 years. I have a small leak in the original steel line as a resulting of bending it to try and mate with my master. The new tube work (jumper) however turned out well. Im gonna try and patch the small hole/leak with permatex liquid metal filler. I dont think there's anyway Im gonna separate that line from the dist. valve, I have tried with a crescent wrench (holding the valve) with no success. Based on brake bleed experience you need 6 points of contact on that nut, simple wrench wont work. I even tried an extended length wrench. Not ready to risk cutting the line before trying the 6 point option ...yet.

Lisle 12030 Flare Nut Socket Set
I imagine they may have this in SAE I guess its 5 points of contact

Umm, Permatex on a brake line?
No, there's no universe where that's a good idea or would ever work. DO NOT try that.

As I said earlier, you need a good flare nut wrench with a torch to heat up the fitting or to cut the line and then use a 6 point socket on the flare nut. Reproduction bent lines are available in regular and stainless steel.

 

[sgoldberg]

yes good advise! thanks!! The torch concept worked. I cut the line essentially down to the fitting and then was able to squeeze a deep 6 point 7/16" socket onto it and then with it and my extension still on it (and somewhat thermally insulating it) I heated up the prop valve and was able to get it out quite easily after that. I made a new line to suit. The vacuum bleed operation however didnt work real well for me...now gonna go to the old skool (pressurized) two person bleed routine.

I had to do a similar torch operation on the two front brake bleeders except with a 1/4" 6 point wrench. That gave me some confidence to move to the proportional valve issue.