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Arnie Anderson

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Greetings Life forms, I have a computer whiz, who says he can reprogram the anti-nibble feed back circuit, to get rid of the dreaded steering wobble, on our 2011-14 Mustangs. Then we don't have to buy the boss 302s electronic steering box, at a cost of $1000.That is, unless the wiring is encapsulated in that plastic crap. Then all bets are off! I know- I know. I told him, people have tried and tried, but he insists he can reprogram it! Before you respond, keep in mind , I have no computer skills, so I can only relay the message. If you have any knowledge about this, please feel free to put your positive thoughts towards this project. I know, I'm not the only one who would like to put poly bushings in the front lower control arms, without incurring the "steering wheel shake".
 
I'd test this out if it were possible. It is a huge nuisance indeed. +1 for getting rid of the wobblies!


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Discussion starter · #4 ·
electric steering

Ltngdvr, if you take the squishy pop can size front lower control arm bushing out and replace it with polly bushings, you will at some point induce steering wheel shimmy. It can be quite violent and may not quit until you stop the car. This may happen repeatedly until the electronic steering module is replaced by the "boss 302s module". That is a $1000. unit!
 
Ltngdvr, if you take the squishy pop can size front lower control arm bushing out and replace it with polly bushings, you will at some point induce steering wheel shimmy. It can be quite violent and may not quit until you stop the car. This may happen repeatedly until the electronic steering module is replaced by the "boss 302s module". That is a $1000. unit!
Think I'll pass on that.
 
^^I agree. If it ain`t broke, don`t fix it. The stock "squishy pop" size bushings are fine for me.
I'd rather covert to an entirely manual steering setup myself. Far superior road feel to power steering.

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Discussion starter · #8 ·
kenv, I also have left my front lower control arms alone, but at some point, I want to keep my negative camber set properly, instead of shifting from negative to positive and back, as I'm going around corners. Keep in mind I have Vorshlag cc plates and suspension, so I have serious intensions, maybe not the talent. Soooo, if the steering module can be redone at a reasonable price I will do it.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
PW_Pony, I might consider manual steering if I wasn't going to put on 18x11 inch wheels and tires, then autocross. I did that in my youth, never again! Does build arm strength by golly.
 
PW_Pony, I might consider manual steering if I wasn't going to put on 18x11 inch wheels and tires, then autocross. I did that in my youth, never again! Does build arm strength by golly.
Sure does! Power steering pump went out in my previous vehicle. I ended up ripping it out instead of replacing/fixing it and went like that for about 6-7 years. Hell, I didn't even have ac.

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Discussion starter · #11 ·
I know there are other people on this forum who have prepared their mustangs for track duty. Did you experience steering wheel shake using R-compound rubber, or was it a combination of race rubber and polly bushings installed in the front control arms that induced the steering wheel shake? Did you install the boss 302s electronic steering module to eliminate this condition? I understand these boss 302s modules were on back order for quite some time.
 
^^I agree. If it ain`t broke, don`t fix it. The stock "squishy pop" size bushings are fine for me.
Huge, soft front bushings create huge toe changes at the track when cornering or braking. To get a stable alignment you really have to swap out that bushing.

And when you swap out the bushing, you get the possessed steering rack.


Vorshlag EPAS feedback loop video.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks Jason, I'll keep you informed if we have any success, with reprograming the module.
 
Wow, that was an interesting video.

So that is an unintended consequence that occurred after modifying the car, that requires further modification to fix it. I wonder what it is in the programming of the EPAS that causes that?

Yet another reason my car is still stock.
 
Good old electro-mechanical resonances.

I see two possible low-cost solutions:

1: replace the u-joint closest to the steering rack with a version that includes a rubber decoupler.

2: take apart the rack, find the torque sensor, and wire in a low-pass filter (resistor and capacitor) on each of the two signal wires.
 
I was recently told by someone in Ford Racing that the 2012+ cars got the updated “BOSS rack” as delivered.

Anyone have the shimmy issue with a 2012+ car?
 
Good old electro-mechanical resonances.

I see two possible low-cost solutions:

1: replace the u-joint closest to the steering rack with a version that includes a rubber decoupler.

2: take apart the rack, find the torque sensor, and wire in a low-pass filter (resistor and capacitor) on each of the two signal wires.
What about just getting rid of it altogether?

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I was recently told by someone in Ford Racing that the 2012+ cars got the updated “BOSS rack” as delivered.

Anyone have the shimmy issue with a 2011+ car?
So I should be able to replace my bushings with no problems then?

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So I should be able to replace my bushings with no problems then?

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If all the racks were updates, yes.

For spirited driving the stiff bushings are AWSOME! I have my 2007 set up like that. The steering feel is almost to "motorcycle".nod.gif
 
If all the racks were updates, yes.

For spirited driving the stiff bushings are AWSOME! I have my 2007 set up like that. The steering feel is almost to "motorcycle".nod.gif
This has me curious now.

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