[Kyle F]

I need to get all four corners up in the air and get them on Jack Stands. wide enough to install headers.

Anyone seeing a pattern forming here.


So... where are the safe points front and rear and where should I put the jack stands?

 

[RPM]

lift points. I raise the front on the center of the K-member and use the highly unrecommended "pumpkin lift" for the rear.

 

[ultraclyde]

to get the width on the front end, you can put the stands at the factory fender jack points. I've done this in the past, but you have to use the older flat-top styly stands, not the new ratchet style. The top on my set fits in the notch well, but you have to be careful and not let them overlap onto the plastic rocker trim.

GL, let us know how it goes

 

[MachOne]

I have used a floorjack under the rear end housing for years without a problem. I have never heard of this causing a leak.

You can not go wrong using the front and rear subframes as the points of support for jackstands on a unibody car. I would not recommend lifting directly underneath body panels.

Kyle F - I hope your header install goes smoothly.

 

[thump_rrr]

To install the JBA Longtubes and H-Pipe i didn't bother lifting the rear. I lifted the front one side at a time from the front subframe. I installed the jackstand at the factory front reinforced jackpoints on the rockers just behind the front wheels.

 

[Kyle F]

I found it very helpful to have the back up in the air aboout 4" off the ground to the tires. Gave us a little extra room to mess around with the H-pipe.

Added note... mine is a catted version.
Instal was successful, but not smooth. If I was todo it again... I could probably do it in about hlaf the time.

 

[Kohaku]

Do the wheels come off for a header swap on this car? I use ramps whenever possible. It feels safer.

 

[stylnTang]

I haven't installed my headers myself, but I plan to later this year. However, when it comes to oil changes, I use a hydralic jack to lift the car up, but, when I bought this car, I discovered that the car was too low to the ground to get the jack up under it. So, my father and I devised a plan. We took 2x4's and other pieces of wood, and made two stacks of wood on teh driveway. Then we made sure each stack was perfectly even, in comparison to the other stack. We would pull the first layer (the bottom layer that is directly resting on the ground) of wood out several inches, toward the car, from underneath the second layer, to give the stack a 'ladder' effect. We then drove the car up the stack of wood till the front end was jacked up enough. This eliminates the need for putting the car on lifts, or other permanent devices, that is of course, unless your tires decide to mysteriously blow out. It works quite well. Since this puts the front end of the car up, it also helps to drain the rest of the oil, that is in the oil pan, to the back of the oil pan, where the oil plug is at.

 

[Vandil]

I do the wood block trick, but I only put enough wood down to lift the car the 2" I need to slip the floor jack under.