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Mr.02

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Can I download a tune for my 2002 Mustang GT after a cam swap? I put stage 1 comp cams had them degreed but didn't get a tune and the car stalls after it warms up.Can this be done online or do I need to go to the shop?
 
I would definately get a dyno tune after installing cams you will get the full gains by doing that too
 
Mr.02:

Ideally, you can get your tune from a reputable tuner nearby. Otherwise, you need to choose a tuner and then work by e-mail. Cams require some datalogging and tune refining to get the drivability just right. Alternately, you can get SCT's ProRacer software and tune the engine yourself. You need a laptop to collect (and review) the data but it's a fun process if you like to do stuff yourself. You will learn a ton about your engine, too.

Chris
 
In your situation, what I would probably do is get the email tune, but only use it to baby the car to that tuner that's a couple hours away. As nyuk98gt said, a proper tune is going to require some datalogging and fine tuning to get things right. Having a spot on tune is critical to the livelyhood of your engine, and not something I would take a chance on. Email and canned tunes are fine for cars with minor bolt ons, but once you step into the realm of cams, heads, power adders etc. the dynamics of the engine are changed beyond what anybody sitting at a computer hundreds of miles away can accurately and confidently deal with. They have no way of knowing that it runs lean between 4500-5500 rpm's and be able to make the necessary adjustments like a dyno tuner does. Try to sweet talk the dyno guy into a Saturday appt. or maybe figure out a way to take a day off work to get it handled.
 
If you can't get a true dynotune, opt for a remote tuning where you go run it on any dyno and get the graph and datalog the parameters they ask you to. You email it all to them, they create you a tune and then you load it via email. Then you go back to the dyno and repeat the process and email you the stuff back. One last dyno trip to verify and you're done.

It doesn't end up being any cheaper after you pay for dyno time, but if you have a dyno but no tuner nearby, it's a good option. Some can even do it off of just driving datalogs, but you would need to install a wideband on your car, so again..... no cheaper or easier than just taking a day off and driving to the dynotuner.
 
If you can't get a true dynotune, opt for a remote tuning where you go run it on any dyno and get the graph and datalog the parameters they ask you to. You email it all to them, they create you a tune and then you load it via email. Then you go back to the dyno and repeat the process and email you the stuff back. One last dyno trip to verify and you're done.

It doesn't end up being any cheaper after you pay for dyno time, but if you have a dyno but no tuner nearby, it's a good option. Some can even do it off of just driving datalogs, but you would need to install a wideband on your car, so again..... no cheaper or easier than just taking a day off and driving to the dynotuner.
you know....this is just a thought only because I don't know how the "bama tunes" work other then what it says on the surface..."free tunes for life". But, it may very well be cheaper to do it that way. I know the place I got my dyno tune runs specials all the time....3 power pulls for 95 bucks....but it always seems to cost anywhere from 350-500 for a dyno tune.

so heck, I think its a great idea. data log three power pulls send it off to "Bama tunes" using the "free tune for life" program and your only out about 80-90 bucks each run...I guess looking at 2 trips to the dyno so maybe 150-160 and you have a dyno tune.

Very good idea on that one Bullitt
 
Last time someone asked, Bama/AM wouldn't guarantee tunes for life with cams, because of the liability involved with doing mail order tunes with major mods, such as camshafts.
 
not sure I completely understand....does that mean that they "can't guarantee it to be right" or "they can't guarantee it will be free" when it comes to "major mods"?

as fair as accuracy or it being right and trying to guarantee that....I can for sure understand that part of it but as we all know it really comes down to you A/F being correct in order for something major not to fail but if its a matter of it not being free when it comes to anything outside of a simple bolt on....well, at that extent I fail to see the value of getting it based strictly on a free tune for life program.......Don't get me wrong, its not like they charge more for the tuner just seems like a false sense of more value when it wouldn't be.....if that's the case

In the long run though....thinking about it for a moment. It would be a bit of a wasted trip to data log on a dyno with a cam swap. I feel that anything over 3000 rpms with bad A/F runs a risk of f*cking things up and is useless. So, for sure an A/F wideband to get it in the ball park before putting any real load on it would be a great idea for sure.
 
If I remember right, they wouldn't do the tune at all for a cammed car because of the liability involved.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Bama said they can't do a tune for a cammed motor,and they said something about leaky vacuum hoses and different thing that it wouldn't be exact...whatever:?:I'll just have to take a day and get it done on the dyno I guess,again thanks alot guys.
 
Last time someone asked, Bama/AM wouldn't guarantee tunes for life with cams, because of the liability involved with doing mail order tunes with major mods, such as camshafts.
Unfortunately, Bullitt is right that we are unable to supply remote tunes for 2V motors with cam or head upgrades. They're too unpredictable as to what the AFR will be like right off the bat and we are unable to ensure that a remote tune will work 100% as it should. Those cars need to be put on a dyno with a real-time wideband gauge hooked up to monitor the AFR as it changes. If it were a 3V car with a stock wideband o2 sensor, we could have you datalog it, but on a 2v that isn't an option sadly.

For more information on what we can or can't tune for, the list of "un-tunables" can be found here:
What we don't tune for. - Free Shipping!

I apologize for any inconvenience and I hope this helps! Please feel free to contact me directly if you have any questions /comments/concerns in the future! Have a great weekend, a wonderful holiday and a happy new year!
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
The main problem I have is at idle when the car is warmed up,as far as performance and top end or take off it works fine,maybe a fine tune will be better.At the 1/4 mile I ran 13.70 sec @ 101.76 mph. I have a few bolt-on as well along with 4.10 rear end gears. Not bad considering most cars in my class are only doing 93-95 mph. 14 sec.
 
Stock cam cars with bolt-ons and gears typically run 104mph or better. You're not making any horsepower with that thing at 101mph. I ran 100mph bone stock off the showroom floor and was running 104mph with just CAI, pulleys, midpipe and 4.10's. You may think it's not running bad, but it's not running good for a cammed car, that's for sure.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
I never saw a stock Mustang up to 2004 run anywhere near that,temperature and other factors play into the equation,the best a 2003 Mustang GT with CIA,new exhaust,pulley's and TB could do is 95 mph 14 sec. I think i'm doing very well for what I have.
 
I never saw a stock Mustang up to 2004 run anywhere near that,temperature and other factors play into the equation,the best a 2003 Mustang GT with CIA,new exhaust,pulley's and TB could do is 95 mph 14 sec. I think i'm doing very well for what I have.
With CAI, midpipe, pulleys I ran 13.6@100. While that's a tiny bit fast for a 2V, I would put that closer to what they SHOULD run than 95mph with those mods. While the elapsed time can vary, the MPH will be semi-close no matter the skill of the driver, and saying that 100mph is too fast is ridiculous. Eddy21x's automatic convertible with full bolt-ons and 4.30's traps at over 103mph consistently.


Your figures are closer to a 96-98 NPI car's capabilities.
 
And hell, I ran 12.25@110 with just bolt-ons with a stock head/cam 2V.......... lol
 
not in my part of the world you won't run those times or speeds.
Elevation there is only around 120ft, no different than where I live. I know it's no more humid than NC in the summer, and there's no "black hole" where cars just won't run as fast other than elevation, barometric pressure, heat and humidity.

Try convincing someone who doesn't know better and doesn't own a weather station, maybe they'll believe you........:bigthumbsup
 
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