[edbreyer]

Thinking I need a new Smart Junction Box/BCM due to my key fobs both being intermittent and now TPMS system error. So I got the part number from the current box and found several on ebay. HOWEVER, when (just for kicks) I called the local Ford dealer to see if they had it new (they do for $650) - they looked up the part number based on my VIN and it is a different part # than is currently in place. Makes me think the box has been replaced before using a different model number box and then programmed by a Ford dealer to work - - Is this possible?
I can't even find one on ebay with the part number or engineering number the Ford dealer gave me (and I double checked with a 2nd Ford dealer to verify the numbers).
So should I take a chance and buy a used/ebay box for under $200 that matches the current one and hope a Ford dealer can program it ($150) to work on my car even though it's a different part number than they think I need? Hate to spend $650 + $150 programming for a new one via FORD!
MORE INFO:
Current "FORD P/N (printed on white label): 8r3t14b476bd
Current KIT number (printed on white label): 8r3t15604bd
Ford dealer provided part number based on VIN: 9r3z15604f
Ford dealer provided Engineering (or KIT?) number based on VIN (supposedly the number that would be on the white label of the part: 9r3t15604db

 

[Lime1GT]

Are you sure the SJB needs changing? Remove the Key Fob battery/s and test with a volt meter or install new ones. The button pads and circuit board inside the fobs can get blackish with dirt over time and need to be cleaned with a q-tip and Isopropyl alcohol. Of coarse the battery should be removed when using liquids. If the fob uses button switches sometimes flushing with QD Electronic Cleaner will free up sticking ones.
TPMS sensor internal batteries also can die over 7 years of age which will require new sensors to be installed to rims. Did you have a diagnostic code read from the TPMS system?

 

[edbreyer]

Are you sure the SJB needs changing? Remove the Key Fob battery/s and test with a volt meter or install new ones. The button pads and circuit board inside the fobs can get blackish with dirt over time and need to be cleaned with a q-tip and Isopropyl alcohol. Of coarse the battery should be removed when using liquids. If the fob uses button switches sometimes flushing with QD Electronic Cleaner will free up sticking ones.
TPMS sensor internal batteries also can die over 7 years of age which will require new sensors to be installed to rims. Did you have a diagnostic code read from the TPMS system?

The fobs themselves are okay, If the car responded to one fob - it responded to both. Then suddenly neither fob worked (even with new batteries), then they'd randomly both work again - then simultaneously both stopped working (again). This went on for the first 3 weeks I owned the car.
When the 2 fobs stopped working the latest time, I bought two brand new fobs and attempted to program all four (using the ignition on/off 8 times sequence procedure) but apparently only succeeded in wiping all fobs out of the car's memory. Although the car responds as expected to the reprogram process (signaling it is in the program after the eight ignition switch on/off sequence by cycling the door locks) it will not accept any of the 4 fobs.
So I'm convinced it's the car - NOT the fobs. However, I'm only guessing that it's the SJB - because of what I've read and because I've noticed a small amount of water dripping leaking near the SJB.
I hopefully resolved the drips this week by replacing the window trim foam liners and installing 10 new heat sealed cowl tab sockets. The rubber flaps in the firewall cavity had already been removed and there were no signs the water was coming in via the cabin air filter.
So again, the SJB is just a best guess because that seems to be where the brains of the key fob system live. However, I am open to any additional suggestions.

BY THE WAY - the TPMS flashing dash icon error went away today - but won't be surprised if it randomly returns. From what I've read, inconsistent mystery issues seem to be another sign of a potentially failing SJB. I would love to be wrong - but if it is failing I need help figuring out which one to order.

 

[rossfamily97]

My buddy’s 08 GT was running into a no crank no start issue due to a flashing PATS light. We were getting a B1681 code (PATS ignition module signal not received). We had a good battery and alternator as we changed those hoping it’d solve the issue and neither key was working to get it started (we had two as well), and then took it to a shop for diagnostic (we got it started one time after swapping relays between the fuse box under the dash and the box in the engine bay - was desperate for just a turnover of the motor so we didn’t have to tow it). Long story short the symptom of that box failing in our case was a 2 volt reading from that box that was affecting everything from the box to the dash when we should have been getting 12V. No shorts leading to the box were identified so they concluded our SJB was bad and we were told it was an $1100 part with only one left with Ford at the moment.

We are going to go through the process of ordering one off ebay used and honestly hope for the best after conducting the swap. Once that’s done i’ll update this post with the outcome as far as what we had to do to regain full functionality. If your SJB is looking faulty, run some voltage tests all across the dash wiring and see if the fault truly points to the box itself or if it’s potentially a faulty connector or fuse in the box instead. I hope this helps!

 

[edbreyer]

My buddy’s 08 GT was running into a no crank no start issue due to a flashing PATS light. We were getting a B1681 code (PATS ignition module signal not received). We had a good battery and alternator as we changed those hoping it’d solve the issue and neither key was working to get it started (we had two as well), and then took it to a shop for diagnostic (we got it started one time after swapping relays between the fuse box under the dash and the box in the engine bay - was desperate for just a turnover of the motor so we didn’t have to tow it). Long story short the symptom of that box failing in our case was a 2 volt reading from that box that was affecting everything from the box to the dash when we should have been getting 12V. No shorts leading to the box were identified so they concluded our SJB was bad and we were told it was an $1100 part with only one left with Ford at the moment.

We are going to go through the process of ordering one off ebay used and honestly hope for the best after conducting the swap. Once that’s done i’ll update this post with the outcome as far as what we had to do to regain full functionality. If your SJB is looking faulty, run some voltage tests all across the dash wiring and see if the fault truly points to the box itself or if it’s potentially a faulty connector or fuse in the box instead. I hope this helps!

Thanks for the reply! I am seriously considering buying a used SJB via ebay BUT have discovered an additional complication: I can find several SJBs that completely match all the part numbers on the existing and possibly damaged SJB (Ford P/N, Kit #, Delphi P/N), HOWEVER, on a whim I called two local Ford dealers to see if they had a new SJB for my car and based on my VIN they both told me that the current SJB in my 2008 GT is NOT the original SJB box and is NOT the correct SJB part number that came with the car from the factory. Of course, that version SJB is not available through ebay and the dealer wants nearly $600 plus possibly another $150 if programming is needed.
I've heard that if you get an SJB that matches the original SJB then it is plug and play with no programming required. So I'm wondering/thinking that maybe the previous owner already replaced the SJB years back and used one with a different part number - but was able to get it programmed to work. Bottom line, I'm not sure which SJB part number to try.
ALSO, based on your experience I now worry that if I replace the SJB it could make the chip key non-functioning which would prevent the car from starting. This is driving me a bit crazy!
Would REALLY APPRECIATE hearing what you do next and how it works.

My buddy’s 08 GT was running into a no crank no start issue due to a flashing PATS light.

Forgot to ask - what does PATS stand for?

 

[Kraig1957]

Forgot to ask - what does PATS stand for?

Passive Anti-theft System

 

[Jeremy Weigel]

This may be of assistance. If the dealership gave you the original Tare tag & engineering number based on your VIN and you can source a good used unit this proceedure works for the SJB too. I messaged Brian a few years back after he posted this video to verify it will work since my SJB was acting up due to corrosion. Luckily I didn't have to replace it.

Spoiler: >>>>>>>> Click here for the video <<<<<<<<

 

[AndyEckel]

Please, please, for the love of your wallet and sanity - do NOT under any circumstances buy a SJB from FleaBay.

You might as well just light those hundred dollar bills on fire and hit yourself on the forehead with a hammer. You will get the same result and it will be over-and-done with much more quickly.

With genuine sincerity, you used the word "hope" above. When it comes to module replacements, "hope" is NOT a good troubleshooting or repair strategy. You need to know you are getting the right replacement module and why the current one has failed.

It sure sounds to me like you have an issue with a SJB that got wet - I noticed you mentioned it was getting dripped on. That is NOT good and those drips will foul a harness connection in no time and cause short circuits. I highly reecommend you unplug it and inspect everything carefully. Any sign of "green crusties" is no beuno.

You might also have an incompatible SJB based on the numbers that don't match.

Believe me, I do not want you to spend a penny more than is necessary. But unless you have mad PICOScope and CanBus diagnostic skills with a professional grade scan tool, you need to go to the dealer.

 

[edbreyer]

This may be of assistance.

Thanks for the video link. Honestly much of what he covers is "Greek to me" - but I'm learning. Am I correct that a Ford dealer would not do what he demonstrates - so I'd need to find a mechanic with whatever equipment he was using?

 

[AndyEckel]

FYI - that guy has a terrific FordTechMakuloco - YouTube channel. He is literally a Ford genius. Mostly works on F150s but many of the principles are the same when it comes to modules and troubleshooting.

The software he is using, which he briefly mentioned as "IDS", is indeed the Ford Proprietary Software. IDS stands for Integrated Diagnostic Software. Anyone can literally download the software and use it assuming three things:
1) You have the computer hardware and OBDII interface connection
2) You have the $800 for an annual license (although I think you can pay for a 3 day license for like $50)
3) You know what you are doing - which is the deal breaker for most

I would consider what he is doing (module programming) to be 'senior master technician' level service at the Ford dealer. That guy worked at a dealer for 10+ yrs learning this stuff and then started his own business.

Unfortunately, not every Ford dealer will have a guy like this. You can call around your local shops but you will need to ask the right questions such as:

• Do you have the Ford IDS software in your shop?
• If so, do you have a tech that can re-program a BCM or PCM?
• What is your payment policy if you cannot re-program it? I would assume you will pay 1-2 hrs of labor regardless of the outcome.

Last but not least, sending your BCM or PCM off to get repaired (if it got wet) and reprogrammed is an option. This is an example. I have never used such a service, so you would need to call around.

HTH

 

[Jeremy Weigel]

Brian is a Ford Master Tech. He cut his teeth working for a dealership for 10+ years before going on his own.
You can ask your local dealership if they can/will perform the programming and if they say its not possible you can show them the video. As Brian said most techs probably dont realize it can be done.

 

[edbreyer]

FYI - that guy has a terrific FordTechMakuloco - YouTube channel. He is literally a Ford genius. Mostly works on F150s but many of the principles are the same when it comes to modules and troubleshooting.

The software he is using, which he briefly mentioned as "IDS", is indeed the Ford Proprietary Software. IDS stands for Integrated Diagnostic Software. Anyone can literally download the software and use it assuming three things:
1) You have the computer hardware and OBDII interface connection
2) You have the $800 for an annual license (although I think you can pay for a 3 day license for like $50)
3) You know what you are doing - which is the deal breaker for most

I would consider what he is doing (module programming) to be 'senior master technician' level service at the Ford dealer. That guy worked at a dealer for 10+ yrs learning this stuff and then started his own business.

Unfortunately, not every Ford dealer will have a guy like this. You can call around your local shops but you will need to ask the right questions such as:

• Do you have the Ford IDS software in your shop?
• If so, do you have a tech that can re-program a BCM or PCM?
• What is your payment policy if you cannot re-program it? I would assume you will pay 1-2 hrs of labor regardless of the outcome.

Last but not least, sending your BCM or PCM off to get repaired (if it got wet) and reprogrammed is an option. This is an example. I have never used such a service, so you would need to call around.

HTH

Thanks for the additional details - including the potential option for having it repaired. I will call the place you referenced on Monday and post back with what they say.

 

[CeskV6]

Thanks for the additional details - including the potential option for having it repaired. I will call the place you referenced on Monday and post back with what they say.

Sorry for intruding in the post,but i have probably a faulty sjb too..how did you managed to get It fixed,in the end?

 

[Cobrajet67]

Sorry for intruding in the post,but i have probably a faulty sjb too..how did you managed to get It fixed,in the end?

Send your SJB out to an automotive module repair service. Idk if you have a North American spec car but if you do then send it to a USA company to have it tested and repaired if necessary. Pro-Tech Auto Systems, Automotive Circuit Solutions, circuitboardmedics, Autoecm, Upfix, and Module Master have good reviews and reputations.

 

[CeskV6]

Send your SJB out to an automotive module repair service. Idk if you have a North American spec car but if you do then send it to a USA company to have it tested and repaired if necessary. Pro-Tech Auto Systems, Automotive Circuit Solutions, circuitboardmedics, Autoecm, Upfix, and Module Master have good reviews and reputations.

I've sent an email to the company you mentioned..waiting to get a reply with a quote for the repair,altough i couldn't write to a couple of them because on the form to get in touch with them,they request an US mobile number,otherwise the form wouldn't be sent..what a shame..whatever..

 

[Cobrajet67]

I've sent an email to the company you mentioned..waiting to get a reply with a quote for the repair,altough i couldn't write to a couple of them because on the form to get in touch with them,they request an US mobile number,otherwise the form wouldn't be sent..what a shame..whatever..

Just put in a fake US phone number. I always do that by default because I don't ever want my real number to be known by any of these companies that would just sell or share it. They'll contact you by email so they don't need a real phone number anyway.
A US phone number will be 10 digits. Just make sure that you use a valid area code(the first 3 numbers of the phone number) or the form might reject it. For instance, 212 is a NY area code so you could just put in 212-222-2222, 212-777-7777, 212-565-6565, etc. Something like that. It won't matter if it's real or not since the system just has to think that it might be real.

 

[CeskV6]

Ok so, for your information: ModuleMaster,circuit board medics,automotive circuit solutions wrote me back that they don't do ECU and SJB repair for the mustang.

 

[Cobrajet67]

Ok so, for your information: ModuleMaster,circuit board medics,automotive circuit solutions wrote me back that they don't do ECU and SJB repair for the mustang.

Pro-Tech Auto Systems, Upfix, and Autoecm are worth looking into. You really just need it tested first anyway so you can verify if you need it fixed or replaced. They charge a reasonable fee to test an SJB or PCM.

 

[CeskV6]

Pro-Tech Auto Systems, Upfix, and Autoecm are worth looking into. You really just need it tested first anyway so you can verify if you need it fixed or replaced. They charge a reasonable fee to test an SJB or PCM.

in the evening,my mechanic would try to swap my SJB with another working one from a quite identical mustang(only change the paint color)..so,if everything work, we should have the proof that it's an SJB problem;
About the 3 companies mentioned,i'm still waiting for an answer and a quote..i would keep you all updated.

 

[Cobrajet67]

in the evening,my mechanic would try to swap my SJB with another working one from a quite identical mustang(only change the paint color)..so,if everything work, we should have the proof that it's an SJB problem;
About the 3 companies mentioned,i'm still waiting for an answer and a quote..i would keep you all updated.

If the SJB is from a car with any different options at all then it likely won't work in the car. Also, be aware that used SJBs from other cars are often also defective.