[edbreyer]

Hopefully your issue is (mostly) resolved. But make sure you have sealed all the water entry points. 1) I removed the rubber drain flaps below the windshield cowl that would sometimes get clogged and allow that area to fill with water and enter via the cabin air filter - no chance of clogging now. 2) I also ordered/installed a replacement set of the heat sealing tab sockets that the tabs of the plastic cover under the wipers insert when being installed. 3) I replaced foam sealant strips under the plastic trim around the upper door frames. 4) (In case all that fails and there is still a leak) I wrapped a clear plastic sheet of plastic over the top, back and front of the BCM/SJB which should keep water from getting into the box/electronics.
ALSO, Don't be afraid to buy a used BCM/SJB - as long as you: 1) make sure the numbers match exactly what you have now. 2) You buy it from a source that ideally tests it AND allows returns if it doesn't work. That's what I did (via ebay no less) and it has worked perfectly without any new programming. It felt risky but the $250 was much less than the $1,000+ the Ford dealer wanted for a new one and programming. BEST OF LUCK!

 

[Beastiezzz]

Hopefully your issue is (mostly) resolved. But make sure you have sealed all the water entry points. 1) I removed the rubber drain flaps below the windshield cowl that would sometimes get clogged and allow that area to fill with water and enter via the cabin air filter - no chance of clogging now. 2) I also ordered/installed a replacement set of the heat sealing tab sockets that the tabs of the plastic cover under the wipers insert when being installed. 3) I replaced foam sealant strips under the plastic trim around the upper door frames. 4) (In case all that fails and there is still a leak) I wrapped a clear plastic sheet of plastic over the top, back and front of the BCM/SJB which should keep water from getting into the box/electronics.
ALSO, Don't be afraid to buy a used BCM/SJB - as long as you: 1) make sure the numbers match exactly what you have now. 2) You buy it from a source that ideally tests it AND allows returns if it doesn't work. That's what I did (via ebay no less) and it has worked perfectly without any new programming. It felt risky but the $250 was much less than the $1,000+ the Ford dealer wanted for a new one and programming. BEST OF LUCK!

Thanks! I have gone through and sealed all the places you've mentioned. I also removed those rubber "Drains" that they put in to apparently catch debris as well as the flaps on the cowl panel drains after the first time my floor got soaked through the cabin air filter opening. I think I will build a protective coverfor the SJB, like you have, just in case water somehow makes it back in.

The car is running great now since I reloaded my custom Lito tune since reinstalling my SJB. I think in the process of removing it I may have confused the electronics in the car. It seems that the SJB is now doing its job along with the PCM as I now have 0 trouble codes. I think removing it, drying and cleaning all the bad connections may have saved me from having to send it out for repair.

The only thing that is strange is the throttle body issue I had mentioned. I was hoping if someone would be kind enough to possibly check the function of theirs, that would really help me out.

Key on engine off and step on the gas pedal with the hood open to hear if your throttle plates move with your pedal input.

Any help would be greatly appreciated on that one 🙏

 

[Jeremy Weigel]

If it does it a single time when you step on the pedal then that might be ok but if it does it again multiple times in succession every time you step on the pedal then that's definitely not normal.

Actually it is normal for the pedal to signal the TB with key on/engine off. Holding the pedal down (wide open) after a timing job or even an oil change is an easy way to prime the oil system as it puts the PCM in to safety mode and will not allow the engine to start. This is also how you find "dead spots" in the throttle position sensor and/or pedal sensor. Some people diagnosing TPS issues by themselves will usually put a full length mirror or such in front of the vehicle so they can watch the throttle blade sweep as they gradually press the throttle pedal. The clicking sound under the hood is the throttle blade going to the full open position if you mash it to the floor instantly.

 

[Cobrajet67]

Actually it is normal for the pedal to signal the TB with key on/engine off. Holding the pedal down after a timing job or even an oil change is an easy way to prime the oil system as it puts the PCM in to safety mode and will not allow the engine to start. This is also how you find "dead spots" in the throttle position sensor and/or pedal sensor. Some people diagnosing TPS issues by themselves will usually put a full length mirror or such in front of the vehicle so they can watch the throttle blade sweep as they gradually press the throttle pedal. The clicking sound under the hood is the throttle blade going to the full open position if you mash it to the floor instantly.

Thank you for the correction. I read over the bit saying that the key was on when it was doing this. I responded thinking that it was doing this when the key was off which of course would be abnormal.

 

[edbreyer]

The only thing that is strange is the throttle body issue I had mentioned. I was hoping if someone would be kind enough to possibly check the function of theirs, that would really help me out.
Key on engine off and step on the gas pedal with the hood open to hear if your throttle plates move with your pedal input.
Any help would be greatly appreciated on that one 🙏

I'd check for you but just this past week I put it in winter storage. I will pull it out again once the WI snow (and salted roads) are gone in late March. So if you haven't received an answer by then just send me a private message through this forum to remind me and I'll check for you.

 

[Beastiezzz]

Actually it is normal for the pedal to signal the TB with key on/engine off. Holding the pedal down after a timing job or even an oil change is an easy way to prime the oil system as it puts the PCM in to safety mode and will not allow the engine to start. This is also how you find "dead spots" in the throttle position sensor and/or pedal sensor. Some people diagnosing TPS issues by themselves will usually put a full length mirror or such in front of the vehicle so they can watch the throttle blade sweep as they gradually press the throttle pedal. The clicking sound under the hood is the throttle blade going to the full open position if you mash it to the floor instantly.

Thanks for clarifying. It looks like I might be out of woods then🤘

 

[Stangman51]

this company rebuilds and warranties their work: G7 Computers, G7computers.com, they rebuild all BCM’s, I’m sending mine to them, they say a fast turn around, usually 1 day. Good luck, also when swapping out you BCM, make sure your part numbers match, especially the last 2 letters.