[Blue Max]

Already have Falken tires. Maybe I will change them one day but not in the near future. They are better than the Pirelli I got with the car.

I already got quite a few parts for suspension mods as well.

The idea is to put a part that will upgrade the experience my car gives me. That's all.

Yes I don't like the nose dive I still have, no I don't think the car stops like I would right now.

And I think that the car as a problem with the mass it's trowing around in the corners. Doesn't feel that balanced.

So I'm looking to upgrade that.,

What size and type of Falks do you have? And what number Prokit?
You should only have a tad nose dive with the Steeda struts. How old are they?

 

[Blue Max]

and what is your car doing? Pushing/plowing? Loose/tail happy?
I really should have looked at your mods before, when you said dayly driver, I thought stock. Hell, you're ready to autocross.
What I said about getting a good set of brakes still stands tho...

 

[Guest]

The only reason I installed the 26mm Laguna Seca rear sway bar on my 2013 Track Pack stang is that some jabroni ordered it at my dealer, pre-paid I might add. And then 2 months later it was sitting in the sales managers office, and he said "Sean, WTF is this thing??.....Do you want it?? Take it out of here! It's Free!"......And like the jabroni who originally ordered it, I said WOW that must be better as it is Bigger!!.......Right??.......Wrong!!.......As I cant feel a BIT of change with my daily driver (Maybe a tiny bit less axel-hop) but that could be wishfull thinking.......But the Point I'm trying to make, is that on a track I could have made things worse!!...Just by changing one thing, that I knew nothing about!!........Listen to these guy's in here that know what they are talking about!!........................Sean

 

[Smarties]

I have Falken FK452 and the size is 255/35/20 all around. Yes I know 20 inches are not that good for performance. But my enkei's are less heavy than the stock rims I got. With the tires on, my tires set uop is a few pounds less than stock set up.

It was my first upgrade and didn't know what I know today. That's why am asking the guy's some input because some have way more knowledge on mustang then me.

2 issues I have. When I brake the noise dive is a little bit there. Not like the stock setup but it's there. The struts are only a few months old. I don't know if the steeda bigger brakes in the rear would help?

Second issues is when I go in a corner that as a bump in the corner, the rear goes loose. Not dangerously but it's loose. Steeda told me that the bumpsteer kit might help.

That's why I'm checking also swaybars.

 

[Blue Max]

I understand and wouldn't be spending time if I didn't want to help.
Where do I start...I go with tires. As you realized, 20s aren't the best performance but certainly aren't horrible and as you said, the lighter weight is huge when it comes to a live rear axle, so you're ok there. the 255s Falkens, well, only a marginal incrase in contact patch and they aren't known for ultra high handling. They are a budget friendly tire.
Nose dive will increase with bigger brakes on your current setup.
Your rear end is loose. Usually, a result of to much spring and sway bar. But I know for a fact, I run them on my DD, if you are using Eibachs newest prokit, after a couple of weeks of hard dring the rear springs set in damn near perfect for a DD with the stock sway bar. So, whats left? Stiffer control arms and shocks. The Ford Racing "A" kit shocks and Steeda rear shocks are known to be a little harsh on bumps, great on smooth tracks. This leads me to believe that your live axle isn't being allow to articulate to keep traction over bumps in corners. This happens a lot to people who want the best performance setup and realize it doesn't work so well in the real world.
I would suggest you start by getting a set of adjustable shocks or a set of GT500 shocks (2010 or newer) as the valving is great and low cost. I can hook you up with the part number if you would like.
This should balance out your car and then you can build from there.
BTW-If your rear is loose with TC on, I wouldn't turn it off! In fact, the rear is probably a lot looser than you think.

 

[Smarties]

Thanks for the advice. The problem the way I see it is that I have slapped parts on the car without checking what goes the best with what I'm trying to do.

So I will try to find parts that goes well together. I don't want to change parts I already got but update thought parts I didn't already change.

I don't to buy another set of struts. It's coming expensive that way.

 

[Blue Max]

We all live and learn.
Your setup is a good start for auto-x. If you want to try just the GT500 rear shocks and see what that does for you, you can get the pair for $70 new.
I have done more swapping and test and tune that I would ever admit in divorce court if my wife found out... though she has an idea by all the shocks, struts, sway bars, etc. in the storage shed.:winks

 

[mustangkid9234]

Sways had no help with the brske dive and also mid corner bumps
I am not ready for shocks struts springs and tires and phb so i went with the eibach adj and wow so flat but rougher ride

 

[Radioguy]

I previously installed KONI adjustable shocks and struts. They eliminated much lot of the "body roll" and the "brake dive." Today I had FRPP stiffer front and rear sway bars installed.
2005-2013 MUSTANG GT CONVERTIBLE SWAY BAR KIT | Part Details for M-5490-D | Ford Racing Performance Parts

My primary use of the car is as a daily driver with a little daily "fun driving (Tail of the Dragon etc.)." Secondary, I will do some "road course track" activities this summer, just to get the "adrenalin rush." I have no interest in getting on the drag strip. I took my "upgrade queues" from a video done by professional race driver Randy Pobst. He did a competitive evaluation of the 2011 Mustang GT (Brembo) and the 2011 BMW M3. If you carefully watch and listen to his comments about the Mustang on the road course, he says the "dampers" are a little soft - issue with fast weight transfer - and a little body roll (sway bars). It is hard for me to evaluate the sway bar changes I made today without being on a track, but I'm guessing Pobst's recommendations are very well thought out. He says nothing about brake issues with the Brembo GT. I don't have Brembos, but I will put on low-expansion brake lines and change over to either DOT4 or DOT5.1 brake fluid before I get on the track in the Spring.

Super Coupes Track Attack! - 2011 Ford Mustang GT vs 2011 BMW M3 Coupe - YouTube

 

[Blue Max]

Thank god it wasn't Tanner Foust! He actually said he didn't like mustang because they all look the same...wtf? Every car model looks the same. Anyway, that's a fun video, I watched it when it came out. Stupid MT usually rates on a $$$ vs. performance, like Probst did but not when it's there beloved BMrrr...
That demonstrates just how good the GT is even with street brakes and shock (yeah, Brembos on it are street production version). Just think about all the critical exclaim the Boss recieved for handling and it's spring are barely stiffer and runs the same sways as the GT in non-leguna trim. Shocks, man,shocks are where the money is at. The car is a great platform!
When Tanner ran a Roush S3 vs. the Boss, he ran are very small, tight corner track and of course, the Boss won. The RS3 didn't have a chance to use the extra power. It would have wasted the Boss on the track in the vid.

 

[Smarties]

I'm still on the fence for an upgrade on my swaybars. It seems as upgrading my brakes will be a more effective upgrade than swaybars.

 

[Smarties]

What do you think of eibach swaybar that are not ajustable. Since I won't do track, is it still better to pick ajustable sway bars like the steeda or the one from eibach that is ajustable?

Let me know what do you think.

 

[mustangkid9234]

What do you think of eibach swaybar that are not ajustable. Since I won't do track, is it still better to pick ajustable sway bars like the steeda or the one from eibach that is ajustable?

Let me know what do you think.

My thing was i dont know the different shiffness and dont know where my csr will be in the yesrs to come so i gor adj

 

[Sharad]

Hi,

Do you think a sway bar upgrade is worth it for a street use on my car? It's not a brembo model.

It's a street use car.

I want to know if it's better to upgrade my sway bar or upgrade my stopping power with new rotors and brake pads.

Would I see a difference in the way the car handle the curves? Does it worth it since I won't track or autocross my car.

The correct answer is all of the above! You might appreciate the brake upgrade more often, but I have upgraded swaybars on my car and I love them. I noticed a big difference the first time I drove the car with them!

I'm still on the fence for an upgrade on my swaybars. It seems as upgrading my brakes will be a more effective upgrade than swaybars.

I love the swaybar upgrade!!

 

[OAC_Sparky]

Just think about all the critical exclaim the Boss recieved for handling and it's spring are barely stiffer and runs the same sways as the GT in non-leguna trim.

Not true. Same front, different rear.

GT/GT Brembo = 24mm rear
Boss = 25mm rear
Boss LS = 26mm rear

This is to offset understeer, as the Boss(es) comes staggered (255-40R19 Fronts 285-35R19 Rears). The LS is staggered the same as the Boss but has stickier tires.

 

[Smarties]

Finally I think I'll go with swaybars.

I need to know which model now and if I go with adjustable or not.

It's between Steeda adjustable, eibach adjustable or non adjustable.

I've check also white line but they are more expensive.

Don't know which to choose and more important don't know if I should go with adjustable since I won't track the car, and I won't play with adjustements every week-end.

 

[Blue Max]

Not true. Same front, different rear.

GT/GT Brembo = 24mm rear
Boss = 25mm rear
Boss LS = 26mm rear

This is to offset understeer, as the Boss(es) comes staggered (255-40R19 Fronts 285-35R19 Rears). The LS is staggered the same as the Boss but has stickier tires.

I have seen the factory specs and help a friend swap his Boss suspension out.

GT/GT Brembo = 24mm rear
Boss = 24mm rear
Boss LS = 26mm rear

 

[Blue Max]

He says he has 2 problems he wants to fix, brake dive and the rear end skipping. Sways are going to make the rear skip worse. Good luck!

 

[OAC_Sparky]

Don't know which to choose and more important don't know if I should go with adjustable since I won't track the car, and I won't play with adjustements every week-end.

I bought the OEM Boss (non-LS non-adjustable) bar since my setup is somewhat similar to the Boss (spring rate and staggered tires). Costs only $135 with new links and bushings from tousleyfordparts.com (plus shipping, I have a US address I ship to). New bolts were about an extra $15.

Personally, that's good enough for me, I don't track the car.

 

[OAC_Sparky]

I have seen the factory specs and help a friend swap his Boss suspension out.

GT/GT Brembo = 24mm rear
Boss = 24mm rear
Boss LS = 26mm rear

I have the Boss swaybar sitting in my garage, ordered from Ford, different part numbers, and they're different.

I have no idea where you got yours and what you put in. The fronts are the same, not the rear.

CR3Z-5A772-A: GT
CR3Z-5A772-D: Boss 302
CR3Z-5A772-E: Laguna

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/3204238-post8.html

Very good Steve!! i just happen to make those parts and you are correct. Also another way to look, on production vehicles the ID tape colors are as follows:

24mm = Blue
25mm = Yellow
26mm = Orange

Also the bigger bars are heavier and they do create more front steering.