I have been chasing problems for a while and I finally found the problem, the ECM. It has 3 capacitors and you can visually check them. I had 2of3 that were bad. If you see the "green fuzz" it might be missing a leg on the capacitor... Thanks!!!
Something is wrong if the code test wont start.You can connect the harness & screw the ground wire to the floor,but leave the top cover off & just set the ecu on the floor.I checked the timing and it was set at 0, so I adjusted it to 10 BTDC with the spout off. It seemed like it was running better but it would not start back up. I had the OBD scan tool hooked up and I was getting a non-communication error again. Maybe I messed up the board, because it did smell a little like burned electronics??? I pulled the ecu again and I took pics starting with the ECU ground cable, it looks frayed but still intact.
I am paying attention to what you are saying, but if I had an open/short then I would also have blown fuses, right? All of my fuses are goodSomething is wrong if the code test wont start.You can connect the harness & screw the ground wire to the floor,but leave the top cover off & just set the ecu on the floor.
Make sure youre using the sti connecter & not the hood light connecter for the test.Many have made that mistake before.
Try to trigger the test by connecting a jumper wire between the sti terminal & signal return terminal,turn the koeo.If the test doesnt start,use the alternate connection method.
Jumper wire between the sti terminal & the neg battery post plus a test light between the sto terminal & the pos battery terminal,turn the koeo.If the test still doesnt run,use a multimeter to test the sti,sto,signal return & fuel pump trigger wires from the diagnostic port to the ecu (ecu disconnected) Each wire should show 5.0 ohms or less.If not,the wire is open/shorted.If every wire tests good,the problem is at the ecu.
STI=pin 48
STO=pin 17
SigRtn=pin 46
FP Trigger=pin 22
The ecu case ground wire being frayed wont hurt anything.It will be a tedious process,but you could test every wire thats part of the ecu harness,to make sure none are open or more importantly shorted to power/ground.
IOW-power wire shorted to a ground wire or a ground wire shorted to a power wire.This condition could short components/traces on the board.Some of those pictures do show suspect areas.Picture #5 kinda looks like a shorted trace.You can touch a meter lead to each end of that suspect trace,with the meter set to ohms,to measure it for continuity.It should measure a really low ohms value.If it reads . 1 or OL,the trace is open.
Veryuseful.com will have the wiring diagrams you need.
The ecu is fused through a fusible link,but the sensors & actuators arent fused.The red (VPWR) wire that comes from pin 37 feeds all of the actuators 12 volts & the orange/white (VREF) wire that comes from pin 26 feeds the 3 wire sensors 5 volts.These two wires & the components they feed power to dont have a fuse or fusible link.I remember how you had talked about several sensors not showing the correct VREF voltage.I thought it could have been wire related,but it might just be the ecu itself causing those scewed readings.I am paying attention to what you are saying, but if I had an open/short then I would also have blown fuses, right? All of my fuses are good
Thats the ticket.Cant beat a lifetime warranty.Offers peace of mind & security.Keep us posted man.Back on the road soon.Peace WBRockMy ECU shipped out today and I am excited, it should be here on Saturday. Here is the link that I bought it from, they have a "no questions asked" lifetime warranty. It gives me peace of mind knowing that they will repair it if I have an electrical issue causing the ECM to go bad.
Mustang 5.0 Automatic E9ZF-12A650-CA A9P PCM Engine Computer LIFETIME WARRANTY | eBay